buying help(tech) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

brownbear · #1 01-01-2006, 03:39 AM

Hello all, I am new to the world of Mercedes.

I am also a Diesel lover, I own a BJ60 Toyota 3.4L diesel Land Cruiser, and moderate on a Land cruiser forum called ih8mud.com

I am looking to buy a 300D Merc for family and wife.

I have found a clean one here in Canada that has 184,000 kms on it. A 1977 300D model sedan. With Auto and A/C, power windows........etc.

Can you guys please tell me what to look out for when I do the pre purchase inspection? Should I get a compression test at these KM's or will a drive and watchful eye on the exhaust let me know of problems. On a Cruiser diesel I would say at 184,000kms a comp test isn't really needed if it drives nice and no excessive exhaust is seen under load.

But any items or details you can tell me would be great. Such as what adapter is needed for a comp test , or any other particulars.

Thanks in advance and this seems like a great forum, Darryl

whunter · #2 01-01-2006, 04:08 AM

Special attention:
Who has the most rust and still drives
Who has the most rust and still drives

Scan through, then look at Generic advice/information:
Sticky: Organized MB DIY links
Organized MB DIY links

JimmyL · #3 01-01-2006, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brownbear

Hello all, I am new to the world of Mercs.

First thing to note is that Merc = Mercury

I would make sure when you go to see the car that is hasn't been started overnight, is bone cold, and starts up for you under those circumstances.
As you know I'm sure, that is the real world useable compression test. I'm sure others will chime in with more specific info.

Welcome to the forum and let us know how it goes. Take a camera with you and snap some pics.

brownbear · #4 01-01-2006, 02:41 PM

Noted: see change above........Mercedes

Thanks, for the links, Any other info maybe? the year I am looking at is a 1977 300d, so I guess it is pre turbo model. Is it hard to find the turbos off a later model and install later.

I made my own turbo kit for my Toyota diesel. But I imagine there are lots of take off I can find from wreaking yards for this engine. ??

Other than body metal rust, It was big thread to go thru, Is there any critcal spots that rust out? On the cruisers we have some crossmembers that can cause too much trouble and the vehicle should be discounted. Or not bought.

Thanks, Darryl

J. R. B. · #5 01-01-2006, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brownbear

Other than body metal rust, It was big thread to go thru, Is there any critcal spots that rust out? Thanks, Darryl

Rocker pannels, front and rear, fenders, lower door skins, and the floor pans. Open the doors, pull the carpets out and then push on each floor pan real hard. If you hear a crunching sound, and feel the floor giving you are in for some serious work my friend. If there is no rust and you buy the car make damn sure all of the body drains are open. I know this because I'm just finishing up my rust repair with new rockers, rear fender quarter, and the right rear floor pan. What you see in whunters thread about rust is what I'm doing. Good luck.

JimmyL · #6 01-01-2006, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brownbear

Noted: see change above........Mercedes

Thanks, for the links, Any other info maybe? the year I am looking at is a 1977 300d, so I guess it is pre turbo model. Is it hard to find the turbos off a later model and install later.

Darryl,
Ah, nice change. I now detect no disturbence in the force.

If you want, or need a turbo model, you need to search for a car that came from the factory turbocharged. A normally aspirated engine and a turbo engine are quite different internally. Oil squirters and such for the pistons, different injection pumps, etc.... Too much heat for a NA engine to deal with. The non-turbos are usually geared lower, so takeoff and city driving are not that much different. highway driving and mountainous driving really benefit from the turbo from what folks say. Being in N. Texas, what do I know about mountains??