On the side of the intake manifold, there is a spot that will take a fitting. After reading a previous post, I searched SunPro gauges, and I found a site that supplies these fittings:

http://www.performancedepot.com/pdallcatsearch.html?upper_sid=3526&sid=3090&year_model_id=&brand_id=&brand_search=CAT_SEARCH&pd=&c=Hose,%20Fittings,%20and%20Accessories&sbd=1

Does anyone know which one fits the 617?

I haven't really taken a GOOD look at it yet, but does anyone know how the plug is removed? Is it an allen screw in there? (I'm at work now so I can't really look.)

I looked up 617 boost gauge, and found your post.

I took that plug out the other day, it is an M10x1.00 plug. It is removed with an allen Key.

I, too, am looking for some sort of metric fitting to screw in there, so that I can utilize that for a boost gauge line, and avoid drilling into my manafold. I suppose I could rethread it for some american fitting, but I never like that idea.

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

How about this one? Autometer #2265

1/8" NPT to M10x1... It's for oil pressure, but I'm sure you could make it work.

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Currently converting a 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 to use a 1985 300D engine and tranny... Engine/tranny are in, no transfer case or wiring yet.

I'm pretty sure 1/8 NPT fits. It works for the front plug on my 79 SD manifold.

So does that mean that the male end is M10x1.00? The language is a little confusing to me.

__________________
Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.

Where is said plug located on the manifold? I would be interested in getting my boost reading directly from there if I could....right now I tap into the ALDA line with a "T" fitting....however, doing that does have the advantage of letting you know the alda is getting proper pressure too.....so I guess its all personal preference....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

The fitting they have for the intake manifold bolts right on just put some tafalon tape on the tread and your ready to go. I got the SunPro gauge at PepBoys for like $15.

Same here, it's the first gauge I used.

I used a brake line converter(makes a previously standard fitting and mates it to a metric fitting)and the appropriately lengthed(shortest)brake line and fittings.cost me about 5 bucks!After trimming down the length of the brakeline ,i slightly "roughed" the end with pliers and slipped the boost line on.no pinching,no fuss.this is an "off the floor stand" part.no ordering,no waiting!

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1984 300D turbo 155k

www.interactivepainmanagement.com

my boost line is connected to that port, i have no leaks in the line but the guage chatters... someone i belive it was forced or JRB that said it could be from the valve action

That would make sense, the pressure right in the manifold is constantly changing and a sensative gauge would pick up on that as the air is "stopped and started" when the valves open and close for intake of air....pretty cool. I bet tapping into the line further down by the alda eliminates that, my boost gauge is smooth as silk.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

yea its pretty annoying.. the guage making all the noise.. and it has to be related to the valve action since the movement of the needle is related to the engine noise.. and when the RPMs increase it smooths out

I've been told that the "vibrating" noise is normal for ISSPRO gauges. It's just a quirk of the brand. My VDO gauge makes no noise.

Go to your local auto parts store and get a 10x1.0mm brake bleeder. It screws right into the plug in the manifold and you can connect rubber tubing to the opposite end.

Also, the 'Economy' gauge from a gasser 126 makes an excellent boost gauge, fits in the dash, and looks totally stock.

My gauges are AutoMeter brand, and were pretty expensive (about $30 each).....here's my "cluster" Voltmeter, 12V outlet, and Boost Gauge:



I also have an Oil Temp Gauge laying in the garage that I paid a bundle for but never ended up using. Maybe I will install it someday....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)