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Crank bolt broken- Needed help extracting- Pictures.
{Edited to better state the problem, and update that I've found out more by better inspection, and reading other threads}
I just bought this 1979 300D, but I haven't driven it more than "around the block" The front pulley assembly came off. How do I attach it. first http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/512571184.jpg&s=x11 second http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/513003850.jpg&s=x11 I'm off to the junk yards to see if I can find one, and learn by seeing one. The Car is located about twenty minutes from home. ARE THERE ANY WRENCHS i SHOULD BE SURE TO BRING. |
Wow........I remember this happening to someone else here not too long ago. A search through the archives should find it.
danny |
looks like it sheared off the bolts on the crank.. that is the one connected to the crank right?
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That attaches with a big bolt in the center with 3 washers on it. It has a 1 1/16 bolt head or 27 mm . It was also missing an allen bolt to hold the pulley to the damper you can get those at ace hardware. I just did mine yesterday so I'm very familiar with this.
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Please clarify for me.
To respond, to THEDON yes this is the one that goes to the crank.
The car is 20 minutes away, therefore I don't know if the bolt head sheared off, or if it wasn't tightened enough and came lose. I imagine if the bolt sheared off this is going to be a real pain. OMEGAMAN Assuming the best that the bolt came lose, will I have to put something to lock the engine when I torque the big bolt in. Is the ACE hardware bolt the Allen head bolt, or the big bolt? I'm thinking the big 27mm crank bolt has to be high grade, and can't be bought at the hardware store. Should I try the dealer for the big bolt? (Edited to state, I couldn't find the big 27 mm crankshaft bolt in online stores, and reading the post there is some confusion about if some dowel pins are woodruff keys. Not caring about the name, but about the ride, the site sponsor has part number A2150-14526, called a Crankshaft Woodruff key. Second EDIT, removed picture because I was told that is not the correct part.) Haromonic Balancer: note of caution http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/29387-haromonic-balancer-note-caution-post158104.html Failed 123 Diesel Harmonic Balancers http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/22647-failed-123-diesel-harmonic-balancers-post115016.html help please with loose part on front of my 300SD's engine http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/58996-help-please-loose-part-front-my-300sds-engine-post360310.html Crankshaft pully fell off - HELP!! I may call it quits. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/128488-crankshaft-pully-fell-off-help-i-may-call-quits-1982-300sd-post930060.html Harmonic Balancer Woes... http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/140533-harmonic-balancer-woes-post1050858.html?posted=1#post1050858 Harmonic balancer bolt http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/52125-harmonic-balancer-bolt-post305827.html Is it possible to retap the 27MM crankshaft pulley hole where bolt fastens? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/90842-possible-retap-27mm-crankshaft-pulley-hole-where-bolt-fastens-post600051.html Thanks for the responses. |
Come on now, do it right
Look around this forum Judge, you don't have to look very far in finding instructions on how to put it on correctly. If you don't follow directions and do it exactly right, you are about to trash your engine and your car. You have to replace the 27mm bolt, and I don't think you will find it at the Hdwe store. The washers are a special lock washer and must be put on correctly. Next there are the two keepers that hold the assembly to the crank. Yours are lost and you need to replace them. Then go back and read how to install from the forum. Some of the members here with experience have said it has taken them up to ten "trys" to get it on so that the keepers are properly linned up. Just go to the top of this page and type in "loose harmonic balancer" and you will get an education. It has also been said that if you "zipp" the assembly on with an impact wrench, you will most likely loose the hub again in a day or two and your car will be trash! Remember, "Your car will be trash"!
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I have had great luck finding those odd mm size bolts at auto parts stores that specialize in foriegn. Though the dealer can always get em for 4 times the price...
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Col Klink - I put some new pictures.
[IMG]http://x11.putfile.com/1/710031117-thumb.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://x11.putfile.com/1/709565394-thumb.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://x11.putfile.com/1/710013384-thumb.jpg[/IMG] What I see is the first @ 1/2 inch is smooth, then there are some threads for a bolt, but not enough to hold something that would have alot of force on it. Then almost an inch inside appears to the start of a bolt that broke off. Any chance this could be covered by this safety recall? Make / Models : Model/Build Years: MERCEDES BENZ / 3005 1978-1979 MERCEDES BENZ / 3005D 1978-1979 Manufacturer : MERCEDES-BENZ USA, INC. NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 79V063000 Mfg's Report Date : FEB 26, 1979 Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE Potential Number Of Units Affected : 3795 Summary: THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY COULD SEPARATE FROM THE MOUNTING PLATE DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE WATER PUMP, AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR, POWER STEERING PUMP, AND ALTERNATOR COULD BECOME INOPERATIVE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO EVENTUALLY BECOME INOPERATIVE AS WELL. Consequence: Remedy: DEFECTIVE PULLEYS WILL BE REPLACED AT NO CHARGE TO OWNER. Notes: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES.SYSTEM: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING; CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.CONSEQUENCES OF DEFECT: INOPERATIVE VEHICLES CAN CAUSE TRAFFIC HAZARDS THATINCREASE THE PROBABILITY OF VEHICLE ACCIDENTS AND PERSONAL INJURY. The thread most on topic is called Is it possible to retap the 27MM crankshaft pulley hole where bolt fastens? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/90842-possible-retap-27mm-crankshaft-pulley-hole-where-bolt-fastens-post600051.html#post600051 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=600051#post600051 Another good thread Crank Pulley Removal? Discussing reverse drill bits, easy out, (1/4" of his bolt was available.) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/102230-crank-pulley-removal-2.html |
i am with the colonel
on this one.
the keyways look distorted to me. i doubt that you will get it to stay on. the big bolt is broken because the keys were not installed correctly and hence distorted the keyways. folks here have described various ways to repair them but i am dubious that any permanent solution will come short of replacing the crank with a good used one. i had this situation on a car i bought. done by po or their inexpert mechanic. you can extract the remains of the big bolt and replace it but the distorted keyways will cause it to break again and the problem will resurface. imho. and i wouldnt try to use anything but factory bolts in any of this. if that pulley/ harmonic balancer assembly comes off on the highway a lot of incidental damage can result. if you are on a budget, a good used engine may be the way to go. when examining a car to buy we should all look at this big pulley and be very wary if there is any wobbling in it. sorry. good luck tom w |
Yes, its possible to retap the crank.
Hi Judge. I haven't been visiting the forum as I should. I hope I'm not too late. Yes. I had the same problem you do right now. I was able to purchase a new center crank bolt along with the 3 washers that go underneath them and the 2 dowl pins. Also I purchased a brand new harmonic balancer because it was trashed.
The tap that I used I got from a tool supply store close to where I live. The tap size is a 18 X 1.5. When I tapped the crank, I did it a little at a time by driving it in slowly until it was catching pretty good, then I backed it out and cleaned out the metal shavings, then in again, then back out, cleaned shavings. I used alot of penentrating oil to make sure that the tap wouldn't break. Well, after I finished tapping the crank and assembled the harmonic balancer along with the 3 locking washers and the halfmoon dowl pins (take your time on this part), I was able to torque the bolt to the required torque of around 200 foot pounds. I had to purchase a torque wrench that would read that high. Anyway, see if this helps. any more questions let me know. Herb '82 240D '87 300SDL '92 300D 2.5 Turbo |
I feel your pain, believe me!
I am the idiot from the "HB Woes" thread who, last month, faced the same problem. I didn't have the bolt headache that you do, though.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/140533-harmonic-balancer-woes-post1050858.html?posted=1#post1050858 My crank looked trashed, much worse than yours, but I put on a $75 junkyard HB and damper assembly (with plenty of loc-tite) and two $1.21 dowel pins and the fix is still holding--for now. I hope the bad boy holds on until I get the $$$ for a good used motor. The worst part of the whole job was finding a good counter-hold so I could torque the crank bolt to 200 ft/lbs. Good luck--this is a do-able job. |
FYI
Mount the three cup springs (washers) with the crown (raised dome) toward bolt head.
The harmonic balancer is secured to the crankshaft by a single 18mm X 45 mm bolt torqued to 270 - 330 Nm = 200-244 ft. lbs. |
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