Tie rod and ball joint replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jmana · #1 01-07-2006, 01:21 PM

I just found out that my car has a bad ball joint and a loose inner tie rod on the drivers side. Now what parts and tools do I need in order to fix this? Can I just buy the bushings or do I have to replace the whole thing? Also, can anybody point me to the proper procedure for replacing these? I did a search, but there didn't seem to be any definitive procedure. Oh, it's an 85 300SD. Thanks so much!

Jmana · #2 01-07-2006, 02:02 PM

The ball joint that is worn is the one that's visible right above the tire. Which one would that be? Would that be the upper arm? If that is the one, do I have to replace the whole arm? I noticed a kit that is just an insert for a "control arm" at Fastlane. Is this what I need?

dannym · #3 01-07-2006, 02:50 PM

http://www.diymbrepair.com/FrontSuspension/

Replacing Lower Ball Joints with Press?

Jmana · #4 01-07-2006, 03:37 PM

After looking at the diagrams of the control arm, I have determined that what the mechanic showed me is the upper ball joint. He said that the boot was compressed, and the joint was worn which prevented him from aligning it. So I assume I need new control arms along with the tie rods.

biopete · #5 01-07-2006, 08:55 PM

On my 81 300D , two shop s told me I needed the tie rod ends and lower ball joint before allignment would hold. Tie rod ends are easy. I like the screw type separator rather than the fork.

For the lower ball joint I followed the great DIY article on this site (see the DIY sticky) up until the successful Pressing of the ball joint with the Autozone Ball joint press. Short answer is a gracious Independent MB/BMW shop pressed a ball joint in for $40 including tax and the Ball Joint while me and my boys waited 10 minutes. They also sent us home with 2 large pizzas (still hot) they had left over from lunch. I was driving home like

The longer story is I first got a ball joint (29.00 after tax) and loaned press at Autozone. I put my neighbors impact wrench on it but it would not go. The Ball joint press rings do not fit the ball joint is the main problem I think. Anyway, the boot tore in the process. The DIY article says take it off but I could not see how and figured if I could take it off now, I could take it off afterwards and put on a new one if it tore. So after failing I took it to the above mentioned Indy who said you cannot buy boots for it as they are non removable/replaceable boots. Thus I had to buy another joint. I was lucky he gave me such a good deal

I cleaned, inspected, and repacked the wheel bearings also before putting it back together. I wish I had done the tie rods on the other wheel. I think the steering is a little akward now. If anyone knows how to get a boot system to fit this ball joint let me know.

t walgamuth · #6 01-07-2006, 11:04 PM

and i have had them changed without changing the ball joints several times. if the joints are still tight and the boots are shot it saves hundreds of dollars.

tom w

kmaysob · #7 01-08-2006, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

and i have had them changed without changing the ball joints several times. if the joints are still tight and the boots are shot it saves hundreds of dollars.

tom w

i agree. they are availible. the autozone press will work. to remove the boot you would simply undo the little ring on the boot with a pick set. the number one problem i see when people try to use the press is they are trying to use an impact wrench.

pleez people do not use an impact on any type of pulling/pressing tool.it only takes a min. to send it in with a ratchet. when you use an impact you also risk it going in crooked and ruining the lower control arm. ive done this about four times now. the first i payed to have them pressed. now i just press them while im at work.(autozone press)

James L · #8 01-10-2006, 08:47 AM

when replacing lower ball joints (w126) are people pulling the brake rotors, wheel hub, wheel bearings and brake dust sheild? is it really neccessary? i did not see any mention of this on the various pictorial links.

kmaysob · #9 01-10-2006, 10:42 AM

yes the rotor,spindle, wheel bearings and dush sheild have to come off

Carrameow · #10 01-10-2006, 10:53 AM

worse comes to worse take them to a machine shop or buddy to get pressed. While you have the front end apart check all your rubber parts and do them now. I notice you are in the NW-its not fun to fix cars in the cold and dark after work. Just do it right this time and never worry about it again for 5 years.

James L · #11 01-10-2006, 11:47 AM

that's what the manual calls for, do you take the spindle stuff off before disconnecting upper and lower ball joints?

kmaysob · #12 01-10-2006, 11:56 AM

if replacing the lower ball joint just use a hammer to knock it out of the lower control arm. just be CAREFULL the spindle does not drop.

83-240D · #13 01-10-2006, 01:25 PM

i just had the lowers on both sides and the left upper done on red. the shop couldn't get a tie rod with the correct threads in so they had to get the entire assembly shipped in from kentucky.

James L · #14 01-11-2006, 09:06 AM

i was planning on doing upper and lower ball joints along with the sway bar bushings.

for spindle dissasembly do i need any special tools like; a hub puller, bearing/race puller (slide hammer) or can i get by without?