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#1
01-07-2006, 10:36 PM
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Broke the copper wire on my fuel sender, 1982 300D
Hey guys. Long time, no bug you with endless questions :-)
Finally got around to working on the car again. I'm cleaning the fuel sender right now, and managed to break the copper wire at its soldering point at the bottom of the sender. Any fixes for this other than a tricky soldering job? Should I just go and get some copper wire the same gauge (or close to it) and sodder it on to the bottom? Will it matter if it's a bit messy, but doesn't get in the way of the float? Would a but-end connection work as well? Thanks, Pete. Last edited by 300DPETE; 01-07-2006 at 10:50 PM. 
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#2
01-07-2006, 10:47 PM
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Haven't had to do it, but red that it's the tricky soldering job...
__________________
'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." 
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#3
01-07-2006, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
 I have a solder and soddering wire. The wire comes to about about 3mm short of the soldering point where it broke at the bottom.... Any tips?
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#4
01-08-2006, 09:17 AM
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I've got a spool of the wire sitting on my desk. Its simple enamel coated wire (nothing fancy) and all it does is send the reserve light signal back up to the three pin connector.
If you want me to roll you up some and send it to you let me know...I have lots of that stuff becuase its worth its weight in gold when you need it and the person I got it from was getting rid of it. And when you are making tesla coils and your own transformers...you need the stuff  BTW the soldering is easy...just DO NOT melt the plastic...ie...don't leave your iron heating too long on the item being soldered. You can cheat and add in a length of non enamel coated wire if you are decent at splicing wires with solder. Use a flame/candle/match to get the enamel coating off the existing wire before you try to solder to it. If you don't, you will NEVER get it to bond. Been there...done that...learned
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#5
01-08-2006, 05:04 PM
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Thanks, Brandon.
I managed to get it to stick by bending down the contact/soldering point at the bottom to make up the 3mm difference. I then melted a drop of solder onto the soldering point, and then emersed the copper wire into that drop and let it dry. It's not pretty, and I might end up having to do it again, but it's working now. Thanks for the offer. Pete.
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#6
01-08-2006, 05:15 PM
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No problem....make sure to check and see that the reserve light actually works though before you install it into the tank.
I've soldered enamel wire before and had it "seem" to solder well but it never actaully flowed...ie...no electical connection! The stuff is tricky... 
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#7
01-08-2006, 08:43 PM
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My wire was broken on my fuel sender also. I didn't have any of the fine diameter wire lying around so I just stripped a lenth of solid copper wire and soldered it in. The reserve light now works just fine.
__________________
'82 240D Euro 68K and growing
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#8
01-08-2006, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
I soldered the wire and reinstalled. The reserve light came on initially then came off after driving about a mile, but it's still showing that I'm empty, despite nearly 5 gallons in the tank. Does it take a while for the sending unit to fill with fuel again, or is something not right? Also, the unit sat reinstalled overnight before I took the car for a test drive. Thanks, Pete.
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#9
01-08-2006, 11:20 PM
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5 gallons in the tank is still pushing the reserve...the light would be out on flat perfect ground but when you drive it sloshes and probably kicks the reserve on.
The fuel comes in via small holes at a very slow rate (to prevent a jumpy gauge) Go put in some more fuel and see how it works. The fact that it is going on and off is a good sign though...assuming the wire didn't slip loose and is contacting wires inside the tank
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