It was a lot more than just installing the bulb. Go back over the instructions and you will see you need to install the relay in the fast glow kit to get the bulb to light.
I think that I detailed the installation of the fast glow kit (hereafter fgk) when I first installed mine, you might try a search on fast glow or NC240D76.
I did figure out that I would install the next one on the pass side instead of next to the battery and if I failed to spell that out in the description please let me know.

More data on 75mercedes07 issues
 

Can you bring the car here for me to work on?
You have me curious about root cause issue, I will charge a McDonald's #1 meal with coke.:D
:) Oh, and I ramble on about cars, so bring your iPod.:eek:

:confused: Note::confused:
"75mercedes07", this issue has become very confused because of multiple threads.
My best advice for future reference; is to start one thread and stick with it.
Example:
wont start for anything!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/104222-wont-start-anything-1985-300sd.html

To help everyone involved.
Here are all of the links to your other related threads.

My Glow Plugs Won't Warm Up!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/140173-my-glow-plugs-wont-warm-up.html

Starting Problems, hurrry girl stranded!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137473-starting-problems-hurrry-girl-stranded.html

what the heck do i do??? (glow plug issues)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/138549-what-heck-do-i-do-glow-plug-issues.html

It won't glow anymore!!! ARGGGG!!!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142004-wont-glow-anymore-argggg.html

glow plug indicator isn't working... what do i do?!?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/139205-glow-plug-indicator-isnt-working-what-do-i-do.html

Glowing problems!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/139235-glowing-problems.html

Testing old style glow plugs, Help Please!
 

Is this the thread you refer to?

Testing old style glow plugs, Help Please!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/106447-testing-old-style-glow-plugs-help-please-post732496.html

i am going to have my bf look over all of this, then check my car out tomorrow. we will look at the relay and what not as NC240D76 said. should i just put back in the old filament? it didnt crack as someone had suggested in an earlier thread. thanks

ra

whunter, yes, that is the thread I was remembering. I forgot what the thread started with, good searching.

The following was the recomended placement but I noticed one needed correction; the second line should read " run the 8 awg wire aprox 18-24 inches to the battery cable connection on the starter"

When I install this system on the 74 240 I will mount the controller on the pass side fender,
run the 8 awg aprox 18-24 inches to the battery cable connection on the
battery,
run the 8 awg wire aprox 48-54 inches to the rear glow plug,
ground the brown wire under the controller,
run the red and the black wire to the ac/start cutout relay and solder them in the harness making sure the red wire is hot when the key is on and the black is hot when the start switch is pulled.
I will still have to run the green wire to the dash indicator and change the element to a light bulb and add a ground but the job will be neater, faster, easier and the driver side will not be so crowded.
This is by memory but do not forget to disconnect the ground from the last glow plug, use new wire from glow plug to glow plug, not the jumpers used on the loop type plugs. The ac/start cutout relay should be on the passenger side firewall. I think you can pull the instrument cluster out and reach the wires in the dash.

Thanks for the help whunter
Good luck Rachelle

75,

If U installed the new parallel GP, there is no need to have a resistance wire in the salt shaker. It just decreases the voltage to the GP.

Replace the resistance wire in the salt shaker with a piece of #12 copper wire.

P E H

other problems besides glow plug wiring?
 

So I'm thinking that while you never installed a relay or eliminated the glow light filament, the glow system must be working if the dash indicator lights up (and the car starts) some of the time. If it's wired right, I would imagine you don't *really* need the relay if you don't glow too long (like over 30 seconds).

When you pull the start knob out to the "glow" position, do the red brake and alternator warning lights dim slightly? If not, you're not getting any power to the glow plugs...which leads me to think the pull start switch may be wearing out (you can get a new one if needed at **************.com - I was so glad to see that they sell them!)

Also, if it stalls after starting, I'm wondering if there is something else "not right" with your car besides glow plugs. When mine did that, it was because of a small fuel leak where air would get in the fuel lines and starve the engine for fuel. How well does your car start & run when warm?

I'm wondering if at least it's a good idea to put a large inline fuse in the glow plug circuit of those early diesels with the pull start switch in case a plug shorts out.

-AC
1976 240D "Katja"

if i replaced it with a piece of #12 copper wire, how would i know when to pull it out?

my car has always done that where it "stalls." the thing is it only does that when i start it up after not driving it for a while, or if its cold. sometimes it doesnt do that. also, the lights do dim when i pull it out to the "glow" position.

when the car is warm and running, it runs wonderfully. sounds like an old diesel should sound, and everything works just fine.

my bf is looking at it right now... ill let you know if anything else comes up

it runs, but the new light bulb that we put in just glows right away. it doesnt "indicate" when the gps are warmed up. so my bf just waited 30 sec and it started up even though it wasnt plugged in or anything. so yeah :o

Best guess:
 

Best guess:
The glow plugs are starving for volts/AMPS.

The pencil type glow plugs draw more volts/AMPS than the old loop style = you must finish converting to the fast glow system, at present, your system is not complete.

You are trying to run the equivalent of an 80 AMP system through the original 30 AMP control and relay.

75,

You just have to guess how long to hold the "gorilla knob" out. Longer when the engine is cold, shorter when hot.

After a while U will get it about right. Correct time is when engine starts easily.

The original 115 cars didn't have any relay, the "gorilla knob" was manual control with the resistor wire in the "salt shaker" as an indicator. If U hook up the relay U got with the new style GP, the light will indicate the correct time to leave the GP on.

There is no way for us to tell how U have the new GP connected so it is difficult to diagnose any problems.

P E H

alright... so this morning, i had to drive my car to school because i needed a ride. i had it plugged in all night. i put the key in, and turned the idle all the way up. then i held it for about 45 seconds and pulled it all the way out. it started, but real hard. i proceeded to drive it to school. it drove just fine. it drove actually better than it had been. after school, i went out to start it, and it wouldnt start up. we tried to jump start it so that the battery would have a little more juice. it didnt work. my bf did notice though that the warning lights didnt dim this time. also, he looked for a relay, but as many of you thought, i dont have one (as far as we believe by looking where you told us to look). if you have a picture or something that would be nice. so right now it is still sitting at school. how sure are you about the pull start switch? oh, and btw, the old filament didnt break or fall apart or anything. thanks

ra

75,

Did U check if the cabin light dimmed when U pulled the "gorilla knob"? If U watch the cabin light and pull and release the "gorily knob" U might get the GP to work.

It sounds like U have an intermittent GP switch, that's the switch connected to the "gorilla knob". A temporary fix is a 10 gage wire with crocodile clips to connect the battery directly to the GP.

Perhaps U didn't know it but the GP switch when pulled to the start position will shunt out the resistor in the "salt shaker". So the GP might work then but take a while to get hot while the starter is running so the engine may be hard to start.

Replacing the resistor wire in the "salt shaker" will make for easier starting because the GP will get hotter. Its easy, just screw off the "salt shaker" cap, loosen the 2 screws, take out resistor wire, replace with 10 short gage wire, tighten 2 screws and replace cover.

P E H

we already replaced the resister with the light bulb we got with the gps. would 10 gage wire be even better than that? i talked to my mechanic just now, and he told me that the new pencil style gps need to have a relay in order for them to work. he also said that the pencil style gps were not really made for the 75 240D. he believes the loop style is better because you can control how long you warm the gps up. we tried to start it today but the light didnt dim at all. the gps didnt warm up either.

with the temperary fix, would you connect the battery up to the 4th glow plug with the 10 agw?

let me know. thanks

ra

Please call me
 

Please call me...