...............oil line to the oil filter housing?????

no he said and ment the oil line to the IP.....4.5 inches directly below the #5 delivery valve on the drivers side of the IP. goes directly forward to the engine block. more likely dropped a crush washer or forgot to tighten it..

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Thanks for all the kind words.

Not until Saturday at the earliest. I'm in the reserves, and I was wrenching on base at the auto hobby shop. This is a place where you can rent a stall and tools by the hour. The car is in their short term storage section, and I won't be able to get back to it until the weekend - even though this is my daily driver.

The leak is almost certainly the oil line to oil filter housing just above the hook up to the oil pressure sensor. I noticed the sensor was bathed in oil, and I remember thinking "Hmm, seems like a 19mm nut would need more torque..."

Anyway, I'll keep you all updated.

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

I thought so.........

Make sure you have two new aluminum crush washers for this connection. My old ones were in sorry shape..........fortunately the head gasket set had two new washers.

ouch...hope you didn't overtourque and crack it....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

"...............oil line to the oil filter housing?????"

No, I was thinking maybe the oil line to the IP. I cant imagine a oil leaK big enough to cause a puddle coming from the O/F or IP to block, gasket

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

The oil line to the turbo attaches to the rear of the oil filter housing. Leave one of those crush washers off the fitting, or use a damaged crush washer, and that engine will push a puddle of oil out of there in about a minute or less.

Roger that...I,m just thinking its something easy to fix as opposed to pulling the o/f or IP again, man I hate to do things over. I once forgot the oil gallery plugs (on a overhaul) and had to pull all the stuff off the front of the eng to put em back

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

It's an easy fix.

The fitting screws into the back of the housing. You need to access it from underneath, and it's not very visible.

However, and this is important:

The supply tube is secured to the back of the head and to the top of the air cleaner support bracket before it finally is attached to the top of the turbo.

If you secure all the brackets and then attempt to start the large fitting bolt into the oil cooler housing.........it likely won't start.......due to the slight errors in the manufacture of the tube. So, the brackets and the two bolts that attach the tube to the turbo need to be loosened to ensure that the fitting bolt will start without a cross thread.

The worst scenario is to try to cut a corner and force the threads on the fitting bolt.

I hope it is not post #194

wont start for anything! 1985 300SD

Roy,

I understand perfectly why this can happen. Try and start the fitting bolt with the line attached and clamped in place and it's almost a certainty. It's a blind metric fitting and none to easy to start even with the oil line completely free to move.

As with all things, it seems as if a little time makes it all better. I was able to complete this job in a couple of hours without any impromptu poetry readings at all. The oil leak was simply the above-mentioned bolt, a few more twists and it was leak free. The timing issue was a bit more involved. The replacement IP must have been from a 1982 SD. Since I already have an 82 SD, that seems like it should present no difficulties BUT: as most of you know all ready, an IP has a timing mark at 10:00. You line up the wide gap on the driven element with the timining mark, and your pump is set at the start of delivery position, which for my car is approx. 24 BTDC. All well and good, no problem - but the engine wouldn't run properly. It turns out that a number of IPs made in 1982 were mismarked, so that you actually have to set the driven element so that the wide mark is 3 splines TO THE LEFT of the timing mark. If you've done this, the pump works like any other. This information is clearly set forth in the OM617 engine manual, proving yet again that, even if you know how to do a job, RTFM first.

On the positive side, the car runs smoothly. The ALDA on the replacement IP was virgin, and I've been able to set it for better performance. Its too early to be sure on mileage, but the indicators are I've gained a bit on that too. I'll wait until I've put a few tanks of diesel through her to be sure.

Needless to say, when recounting this tale, I will speak only of how a difficult job for lesser men was easy for a man of my talents.

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

tjohn

Very intreesting, some mismarked in 82, I'll make a note of that, thanks, its always great to hear the out come of the story. As in, I wonder what happened to the guy that was stuck in the camp ground with a clutch slave out, did the bears get him or did he fix it? , anyway thanks for the Epilogue.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I learned the hard way that it is always best to have the other end of that line off so that it can be moved about easily. This will let you thread that bolt the right way

Well, I have a few years of experience on you so, I'll say that I almost learned the hard way. But, when it would not start by hand, I decided to spend the 30 minutes to completely remove all the line clamps and the fitting on the turbo and then install that bolt........now without any problems.