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-   -   Need help with the Glowplug removal! (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/143013-need-help-glowplug-removal.html)

arcticathlon 01-18-2006 10:22 PM

Need help with the Glowplug removal!
 
well i tested my glow plugs and 3 are showing dead. my glow light wont turn on, and the fuse is ok. so i wanted to remove the glowplugs but i cant. the threads are rusted and if i turn the wrench, then the nut/cable/threaded part all move but the main part of the glowplug stays in the engine.

if i try and turn the body of the glow plug, i can turn it in the direction to remove it, but then the wire starts moving and i am affraid of breaking that cable.

any suggestions?

Brian Carlton 01-18-2006 10:28 PM

You should have a small nut on the end of the plug that secures the wire. Remove the nut, carefully, and then remove the wire.

Then remove the glow plug.

t walgamuth 01-18-2006 10:30 PM

i am not sure i understand
 
the problem but of course you must remove the wires first... before removing the glow plug.

tom w

Old Geek 01-18-2006 10:35 PM

Glowplug removal
 
After removing the Glow Plug wires, then spray a good blast of PB Blaster
solvent around the threads of each GP. Wait for at least 15 minutes then try removing the GPs. :)

Hit Man X 01-18-2006 11:02 PM

I'd recommend removing the IP lines too, my hands were too large to fit in there easily and ended up cutting myself up big time.

Make sure to have anti-seize on the threads too...

t walgamuth 01-18-2006 11:42 PM

and if
 
they pose a lot of resistance, spray the pb again and work them in and out each time coming a little more out. you dont want to break any off in the engine.

tom w

arcticathlon 01-18-2006 11:57 PM

pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is pb? some form of anti-seize?

kmaysob 01-19-2006 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcticathlon
pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is pb? some form of anti-seize?


"pb" is "pb blaster" kinda like liquid wrench but much better. you can buy it just about anywhere(walmart,autozone,ect) also sears has a cheap ratcheting wrench that doesnt have any angle to it. works really well for removing them.

rhodes2010 01-19-2006 01:44 AM

Hey everyone, let's suppose these things won't budge and the core of the
glowplug is turning and the small wire retaining nut is really, really frozen.

How about busting the end off, maybe with a chisel - gently..
Let the frozen nut and threads fall, saving the wire.

Remove the old glowplug body (I prefer WD-40 to loosen threads).
When all GP are free, remove the harness if needed and clean it up.

Get some new nuts for the glowplugs and reinstall, and promise to yourself
to never wait that long again to cycle these things out.

Just my thoughts..... I might be wrong.

arcticathlon 01-19-2006 01:49 AM

Quote:

Get some new nuts for the glowplugs and reinstall, and promise to yourself
to never wait that long again to cycle these things out.
i just bought the car in august.:rolleyes:

rhodes2010 01-19-2006 02:50 AM

no offense meant.

83-240D 01-19-2006 03:23 PM

i lost one of the wire nuts and went to the hdw store and bought 10 new ones. cost me all of 60 cents. i think it was 8 mm. take a plug with you to test.

a ratcheting wrench works well for the plug removal and the wire nut removal. i just did mone and removed the intake lines as suggested. man it sure is easier to turn plugs that way. when you are completely re assemblemed remember to hand pump the fuel back into the engine otherwise it will crank a long time before the air gets out of the system. thats the 2-3 inch wide white knob on the left side of the engine. unscrew, pump, tighten.

Brian Carlton 01-19-2006 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83-240D
when you are completely re assemblemed remember to hand pump the fuel back into the engine otherwise it will crank a long time before the air gets out of the system. thats the 2-3 inch wide white knob on the left side of the engine. unscrew, pump, tighten.

An interesting observation:

When the SD was all torn apart, and the injector lines were off, I followed the standard procedure and pumped the primer about 20 times, left all the injector lines loose, got in, pedal to the floor, and cranked it for 15 seconds.

Got out, verified that fuel came out of the lines, tightened the lines, got back in, and started it up.

Now, at 1000 miles, I took the lines off again to check the valves.

This time, no pumping of the primer pump, no leaving the lines loose. Simply get in and glow and turn the key with foot on floor.

12 seconds and it's running.

So, in reality, if the secondary has not been opened (and it was not.......on both occasions), the whole theory of priming the system and cracking the injector lines won't make any difference in the time to start.

Diesel Giant 01-19-2006 07:29 PM

PB blaster is a mechanics best friend.

t walgamuth 01-19-2006 11:14 PM

oh yeah
 
priming is not really necessary if you just remove the lines and dont touch the pump or filters. they fill up right away.

tom w


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