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#1
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What and were is the rack damper
I understand that the rack dampener can go bad and cause excessive vibration. What and were is it on a 83 300 SD Thanks
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#2
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#3
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On the back side of the injection pump, near the oil filter housing. Old ones are frequently beat. Do a search on adjustment and sources.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#4
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The rack damper
bolt is designed to damp the vibration that are inherent in that engine when EVERYTHING is running perfectly The original bolt (on the back of the injection pump) had a relatively weak spring and it fatigued making proper adjustment impossible. A new bolt (GOLD in color - old one was "silver") with a much stronger spring was designed ( '84-'85) . This is a very important update and the adjustment of the rack damper bolt is very critical. It should just barely make contact and damp the shake (when EVERYTHING is running correctly and the engine is WELL warmed up) then loosen it 'til it shakes - then tighten 'til it just stops shaking. Then tighten it down. Search for other ideas , but I have found it is all a feel thing and the engine MUST be warm
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#5
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Thanks
Thanks for the info. Ive learned alot about these cars but not about this bolt.
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#6
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Also helps a great deal in cold starting/idle too.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#7
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#8
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yup forgot that part
__________________
Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#9
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I know it might sound unusual but I never did find the bolt on a '79 SD. I found it on the other cars I have but not on that one. I wonder if there are cars that don't have one?
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1977 300D Lost coolant while someone else was driving 1983 300D Can't run without oil 1985 300SD (gone but not forgotten) 1990 300TE 4matic Sold 1991 Yamaha Venture 1975 Kawsaki 250 triple 1974 Honda 200CL 1951 8N Ford 2008 Wildfire 650C |
#10
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The rack dampner bolt must also not be screwed in too far otherwise when you rev the engine and let off the accel with no load it will droop below idle speed and most likely stall.
You are basically shooting for the point at which the vibration JUST stops...then leave it there and tighten down. Do all of the adjustment/tightning while the engine is running...that way you know if you screwed something up. Also rev the engine in-between adjustments to see if you have it on or not. Imagine you are adjusting a carburator |
#11
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I hadn't given the bolt a thought until you mentioned it. |
#12
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My educated guess would be that the oil in the IP is so thick that the mechanicals are not operating quickly/smoothy and thus it will hunt a little until everything is warmed up. Mine does this as well...and idles smoothy when warm. You can try and see if the bolt is a little too far in but my guess is that the engine is just cold and shivering heh. |
#13
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The "situation" has developed since I did the head replacement. Probably just a coincidence, but, I don't ever remember the SD doing any hunting when cold. However, usually, when it's that cold, it would crank for a 5-10 seconds and start with a grumble and a pile of smoke. Now, it kicks over in one second, with no extra fuel in the cylinders. So, comparisons may be meaningless. |
#14
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Well I'll relay my experince also if it will help -
Before adjusting the bolt, my SD would idle VERY low when cold. Temps from the mid 50s on down. So low infact I had to have the foot on the throttle until the SD would warm up a bit. After the adjustment, it'll start and idle down into the 40s (hasn't gotten colder here recently than that, I was out in shorts and a T-shirt yesterday!). The adjustment took me maybe 10-15min. Just throw on a thick glove to resist getting burned. I used my fingers in a backward "C" shape around the oil cooler line. That's it. SD's bolt was VERY tight in there before adjustment. 2-3 full turns too tight.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#15
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Bookmarks |
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