81' 300SD

I pulled out the b2 piston (see photos). No symptoms, just read about possible problems with it and figured i'd prevent any problems. The bore feels good but I think that it's the original non updated piston. Piston part# is 126 277 05 38. By the way, does anyone know what my transmission number is? Piston has a plastic white ring. Pulled the ring out and there was some fine gritty material between it and the groove.

Can I get an updated ring and reuse the old piston or does the update require a whole new piston? Any preferences on vendors for these parts?

Have read all of the old b2 posts going back to 2002.

Bruce

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I hate this, but if anybody else answering his question knows if a 76 300D has one, can u PLEASE include it in your reply?

I dont have any idea, so I might as well give you a TTT

~Nate

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The white nylon ring is the bushing and you need the updated piston to change it. The new piston has a slightly smalled diameter and the bushing covers the entire sides.

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Can anyone tell me what number transmission is in my car?

Is there also a revised b1 piston?

Can the b1 and b2 bands also be removed and replaced with the transmission in the car?

The answers you need are here.

ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Do It Yourself Resources
Transmission:
Transmission:

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I would also like to know this...as my friend's car has a VERY smoked band (the rear one).

It has hardcore reverse...and sorta goes forward in some gears...but not always...

Dropped the pan and found CHUNKS and CHIPS of friction material...

Thoughts?

Chunks = rebuild.

Yes but if only one of the bands was damaged and the filter kept the material out of the system, I would think a valve body tear down/cleaning and then a new band or two would fix it.

I am not someone who takes my car to someone to work on...no matter the problem. When people talk about the end of their cars life being that the "oh so expensive" tranny failed...to me...thats just another think I am about to learn to fix. I saw chunks in the tranny and its like...well we can either pull it out and swap it with my known good 4 bolt tranny or we can clean the valve body up and then replace the bad bands from under the car...which would be a whole lot easier to do.

The trannys are not as mysterious as they seem...goodness knows they are less complicated than these injection pumps I have been tinkering with.

Chunks of friction plate = rebuild.
The bands are not friction plates.
You will need to replace both friction plates and bands for a durable repair.

The material in the bottom of the tranny is friction material...from the bands...as I said in my first post. It has curvature, is the width of the band, and clearly came from one of the now only metal left bands..

Presumeably if no crap got through the filter (plugged) then the friction PLATES should be okay. However obviously this band defintely needs replacement...

I have no problem tearing the tranny down but if a new band, filter, and valve body cleaning/checkup would do the job...that would save have to pull the whole transmission from the car.

We are working with limited facilities (at his house) and to pull the tranny it would have to travel about 50miles...

Trailered heh.

Brandon,

You and I are on the same page when it comes to doing it your-self. You usually end up with superior results as well because who cares more about the quality of the work more than you.

I don't have the answer to your or my questions. The reason I want to possibly replace one of the bands is because there was an up-date to the B1 band for improved shifting.

My transmission has another problem that i'm not sure about. It makes a cavitating noise. The noise is loudest when first started and everything is cold (Wisconsin). Noise is present with the car idling in park and also while driving. It quiets down some after warming up. I just bought the car and have only put on 400 miles driving it home. Am in the process of replacing the b2 servo piston, k1 spring kit, filter and new fluid. We'll see if the noise is still there. Hoping it is not the pump (appears to be a $400 part). May be a blockage somewhere preventing fluid from circulating properly.

The third version B2, which has a part # ending in 32 is what you want. It comes with the large diameter teflon seal on its periphery. If it has the original aluminum bushing in the housing, you should replace that and the seal that goes in the same bore. Then adjust the band clearance to 5.5-6.0 mm by changing the "dog-bone" actuating link, the bar with spherically shaped ends that contacts both the brake band and B2 piston. Replacement of any brake band or clutch plate on a 722.3-5 transmission requires transmission removal. They are indeed rebuildable without special tools or expense unless it is driven to destruction. Patience certainly helps.

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