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  #16  
Old 03-24-2006, 05:39 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
i usually just caulk with black silicone.

that way you dont risk breaking the glass. and i have had new seals leak til it caulked them too.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2006, 09:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Palmdale/Ventura, CA
Posts: 813
New rear window seal is in.

I installed the new rear window seal today with help from my
teenage son.

Notes:

Used bicycle tire tools (small plastic ones with curved and hook ends)
to help pull and seat seal inside and outside. These worked really great.

Found that I have to pull the outside seal up and out of channel.

Although the trim was `mostly' in when putting window in, it wanted
to come out. I seated it with a rubber mallet - gently.
The rubber mallet and the bicycle tools helped a lot.

The headliner trim did need to be tucked in a little, the bicycle tool
and the plastic putty knife did a good job.

Almost thought we would have to start over when it was off to the left a little.
Some shoving (carefully) seemed to center it.

Overall I did not feel good until it was all over.
We had a spare rear window in case we broke this one.

I have not added any sealer yet, we joked about if we open all the windows
will the rear pop out on the highway - hope not.

I did use the APA brand window seal.
Everything seemed difficult, until I finished it.
Getting the seal on the glass, getting the trim into the seal
(sure seemed bent, but it wasn't). Getting the glass into the opening.

Thanks to everyone who contributed.
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2011, 11:17 AM
disley's Avatar
W124 Benz owner
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 27
I have a small bubble of rust starting to show on the upper edge of my W124 rear window, just where the channel from the roof ends.
The only way to fix it and be sure it won't return is by removing the glass.
If I break it on removal a replacement window is $624, so I want to know as much as possible before I start.
I've read the posts in this thread, but would appreciate as much info as possible on the 124 before attempting this.
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  #19  
Old 10-14-2011, 12:23 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 4,845
When I did my 240D front windshield seal, I bought an extra windshield from a parts car to have on hand in case mine broke. Cost me $20 instead of $300. Didn't break either the front or rear glass when I re-installed them. But I waited for a warm sunny day and went slow. If it's not fitting right, pull it out and start over, don't force anything.
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  #20  
Old 10-14-2011, 01:21 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,842
the 124 windows are glued in IIRC... (I've not done any yet, but my windshield is cracked badly in my TD) I would hire a glass truck to cut it out personally...
check and see if there is a gasket for sale by calling Phill
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  #21  
Old 10-14-2011, 02:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
Generally, cut the old seal with a razor knife. That said, my friend that owned a body shop garmed out the glass work to the glass man. It can be easy. It can be hard. When it is hard, you'll wish you'd paid. You may want to learn if you're going to do many.

I suggest cutting a deal where you pay install but buy glass at cost if they break yours.

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