After years of wanting a diesel, I purchased my '83 300D for $800 back in October. As you would expect from an $800 car, it had some issues. One of them was the right rear caliper sticking. (and cracked windshield*, semi-working odometer*, two bad glow plugs*, worn out half-shafts*, non-working tachometer* and AC, bad thermostat*...)

It didn't stick hard, and didn't do it all the time, but it was bad enough that the inboard pad went metal to metal about three weeks ago. After I found out how inexpensive rotors are for these cars, I went ahead and continued to drive it occasionally until I got around to replacing the rotors, calipers (loaded), and hoses. I spent a hair over $300 (200 after core refunds) for all the replacement parts this week, and finally replaced the brakes on both sides today. I've done a lot of brake work on a lot of vehicles, and I have to say this was the easiest brake job I've ever done-all brakes should be this easy. The old calipers came off quickly and easily. Rotor R&R was a no-brainer.

The only catch was bleeding it when I was done. I usually do the two-man brake bleed with one in the driver seat holding the brake and the other opening and closing the bleeder valve. Since I was working alone, I tried the gravity bleed method I found on this site. I opened the rear bleeder valves, kept the reservoir topped off, ate a sandwich, and waited. I probably let it go for about 30 minutes, but then I had to throw it back together to take the cores back to NAPA before they closed (couldn't use the rest of my fleet, work site was an empty parking lot-no working on cars at my apartment complex ). It actually worked pretty well, but you can tell there is still just a little air left in the system. I would have finished it off with a two-man bleed, but my co-worker who lives close by wasn't home. I'll finish it off either by that method or by more gravity bleed later.

Now I just need to:

1. Adjust valves.

2. Change the secondary fuel filter (new one is sitting in trunk).

3. Clean the banjo bolt.

4. Tweak the ALDA.

5. Get the door and trunk locks working.

6. Get it painted.

7. Refinish the console wood.

8. Repair the broken LCD on the Becker radio, or just replace the whole unit.

9. Euro 5-spd swap?

10. Oh yeah, I should probably get the AC working before summer.

Gotta love old cars!

I just thought I'd share

*=Now fixed.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

congrats on a job well done. i would agree they are pretty easy. the front rotors are a little more money

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Skippy,

Why change tie secondary filter? DOes the engine loose power on hills?

P E H

The engine runs fine under all conditions. I just don't know when that filter was changed last.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Be carefull when bleeding the rear brakes. The way the resevoir is built it is very easy to think you are keeping it toped up when you are only actually filling the front chamber (mc resevoir is divided internally). make sure to look very carfully to be sure you are filling the correct one.

I changed out my brake pads today and the rotors still look to be in good shape. But one pad was worn less than 1mm while the others had some decent material left.

What causes this? Anything else I need to check?

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85 300D Turbo

Last time I was tinkering with it, I thought the front chamber on the resiviour was for the rear brakes?

I was bleeding my fronts after rebuilding the calipers and noticed that the rear chanber was lowering.

BTW this was on the w126 body.

that side is sticking. time to get a caliper.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

You are correct. The front of the M/C only has one line coming out of it that leads to the rear brakes.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

The rear chamber of the m/c is the smaller of the two chambers and it's the rear chamber that leads to the rear brakes.

The SDL has run itself out of fluid in the rear chamber far too many times to admit.

Skippy,

Doesn't matter when it was replaced last. It is passing enough fuel so it doesn't need to be changed. Keep the spare in the trunk for a time when U get bad fuel and the filter in service plugs up. Keep a spare primary filter too.

P E H