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  #16  
Old 02-02-2006, 10:24 PM
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Brian
All I know is I had a locknut and a nut behind it and they were painted together. I took the locknut off and tightened the nut behind it 3 turns and it took me damn near forever to get the spring retainer back in. I do not remember the diaphragm spinning in the housing when I tightened the nut. Tested 8.5psi before and 11 after and that's where I think I'll leave it.
I want to make a creeper that sits about 3' off the floor for jobs like this.

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  #17  
Old 02-02-2006, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
Brian
All I know is I had a locknut and a nut behind it and they were painted together. I took the locknut off and tightened the nut behind it 3 turns and it took me damn near forever to get the spring retainer back in. I do not remember the diaphragm spinning in the housing when I tightened the nut. Tested 8.5psi before and 11 after and that's where I think I'll leave it.
I want to make a creeper that sits about 3' off the floor for jobs like this.
OK, thanks.

I had the identical experience, however, I was working on a bench, thankfully.

I had 9psi before adjustment. I also turned it exactly three turns and tightened the locknut. I need to put the boost gauge on it and see what I have. I'll do it tomorrow with the fresh oil change.
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2006, 10:25 AM
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I've found that I can start the spring under the ridge, then feed it in 1/4 way around (keeping my finger in the same place, but feeding the spring under it), then I pull the spring's other end straighter, then lay it in for another half turn around the ridge, hold it in with a small screwdriver, and start working it in. It can take a little bit of pulling and it will go back to round when it's seated under the ridge.
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  #19  
Old 02-03-2006, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1983/300CD
I've found that I can start the spring under the ridge, then feed it in 1/4 way around (keeping my finger in the same place, but feeding the spring under it), then I pull the spring's other end straighter, then lay it in for another half turn around the ridge, hold it in with a small screwdriver, and start working it in. It can take a little bit of pulling and it will go back to round when it's seated under the ridge.
Yes, those 360° retaining rings can be a PITA.

You MUST pull the ring slightly apart and start the lower section into the groove with the remaining upper section above the groove. You work the lower section with a screwdriver until it's in place and then the second ring will easily follow around.

Sometimes I have to install 36 of these rings in one of my balancing tools. You get to the point where you can do them in 30 seconds if you're a bit lucky...........90 seconds if you're not.
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  #20  
Old 02-03-2006, 05:38 PM
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Any power difference between 8.5 and 11psi?
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  #21  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
OK, thanks.

I had the identical experience, however, I was working on a bench, thankfully.

I had 9psi before adjustment. I also turned it exactly three turns and tightened the locknut. I need to put the boost gauge on it and see what I have. I'll do it tomorrow with the fresh oil change.
Finished my oil change.........put in a fresh OE filter.........and took it for a spin with the boost gauge attached.

Gauge winds up to 13 psi over 3K.............

Sure glad I didn't go more than three turns on the adjustment!!

I have to get a 0-60 time for this vehicle. It is running just excellent. The time might not be as quick as expected because of the 2.88 installed. We'll see.
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  #22  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Finished my oil change.........put in a fresh OE filter.........and took it for a spin with the boost gauge attached.

Gauge winds up to 13 psi over 3K.............

Sure glad I didn't go more than three turns on the adjustment!!

I have to get a 0-60 time for this vehicle. It is running just excellent. The time might not be as quick as expected because of the 2.88 installed. We'll see.


This on the SD or an L?

I don't think the 2.88:1 versus the 3.08:1 will make a noticable difference in acceleration.
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  #23  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
This on the SD or an L?

I don't think the 2.88:1 versus the 3.08:1 will make a noticable difference in acceleration.
This is the SD.

Well, it will make a 6% difference.........the difference between the ratios..........probably not noticeable.........until you use a stopwatch...........then you are going to lose 3/4 of a second in the ET.
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  #24  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:56 PM
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my '82 TD has a AR...
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  #25  
Old 02-03-2006, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
This is the SD.

Well, it will make a 6% difference.........the difference between the ratios..........probably not noticeable.........until you use a stopwatch...........then you are going to lose 3/4 of a second in the ET.


Can you hit full boost in 1st gear in the SD with the 3.08:1 in there currently? If not, the 2.88:1 or a 2.47:1 would put more load on the motor getting closer potentially.
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  #26  
Old 02-03-2006, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Can you hit full boost in 1st gear in the SD with the 3.08:1 in there currently? If not, the 2.88:1 or a 2.47:1 would put more load on the motor getting closer potentially.
The SD has the 2.88 now.

The load on the engine is the same.........whether you have a 3.08, a 2.88. or a 2.47. The output torque from the engine is the same and the torque down the driveshaft is the same. The torque to the pavement is reduced, however, with the taller ratios.

So, in answer to the question, the engine will hit full boost above 3000 rpm, at full power, no matter which diff and no matter what gear you are using.
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  #27  
Old 02-03-2006, 08:03 PM
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so, its good that i disabled the air recirculation valve on my 85 turbo, right? i heard on another thread that this was the procedure to "fix" it, and bring her up to closer to european specs.....
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  #28  
Old 02-03-2006, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The SD has the 2.88 now.

The load on the engine is the same.........whether you have a 3.08, a 2.88. or a 2.47. The output torque from the engine is the same and the torque down the driveshaft is the same. The torque to the pavement is reduced, however, with the taller ratios.

So, in answer to the question, the engine will hit full boost above 3000 rpm, at full power, no matter which diff and no matter what gear you are using.


Hrm, I know with gas turbo vehicles a taller axle gear (or trans gear) will load the motor differently making them boost quicker.

Since that KKK makes 13psi around 3000rpm, what does it do around 2000rpm?
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  #29  
Old 02-03-2006, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Hrm, I know with gas turbo vehicles a taller axle gear (or trans gear) will load the motor differently making them boost quicker.

Since that KKK makes 13psi around 3000rpm, what does it do around 2000rpm?
Could it be a situation where the revs are climbing slower.........so the boost appears to come up sooner.......at lower rpm's.........because the turbo has time to spool??

This is the Garrett..........the boost at 2000 rpm is negligible......maybe 2-3 at the most.

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