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#1
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won't start- bleed injectors?
Hi. I just got through removing the injectors to have a look. Installed new Bosch glow plugs, rehooked the injector lines and the car won't start. Is there a proceedure for bleeding the injectors? Could this be my problem? The car was running great before. I've bled the fuel lines.
thanks Randy |
#2
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I never had a problem when I reinstalled the hard lines. Engine starts in 12 seconds.
But, I did bleed the hard lines prior to attempting to start it on the first few occasions, until I realized that it did not matter. But, some folks report that it does matter. So, crack all the hard lines, at the injectors. Get in and crank it for 15 seconds. Get out and make sure that some fuel has dripped onto the head from the loose hard lines. Tighten the cracked hard lines at the injectors. Get it and start it. Report back as to whether it works. Inquiring minds want to know. |
#3
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Bingo!
Brian,
That worked! Started right up. G-d, I love this Forum! Thanks for the info. Randy |
#4
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Quote:
That's interesting. On the SD it doesn't matter whether I crack those lines or not. If I don't crack them, it starts in 12 seconds. If I crack them and crank for 15 seconds, I find fuel all over the head. I tighten the fittings and it starts immediately. Must have something to do with internal sealing within the IP...........that's the only thing that makes sense. With a perfectly sealed IP, the pump doesn't care about the air. With a less than perfect IP, it doesn't want to force the air throught the injectors. Food for thought. |
#5
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Humm yah, a mystey
I think cracking the hard lines gives me something to do while I crank. 12 or 15 seconds is a long time to just crank
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#6
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I had the same problem. Ihad a real hard start last Saturday. Tested the glow plugs and found 2 bad and the rest were on theeir way. Just decided to change all of them. I also removed the fuel lines to do it.
Went to start up and it cranked forever. I had to stop a few times because I didn't want to burn out my starter. I must have pumped the hand pump about 300 times. I thought the battery was going to drain when finally it started. Bucked as little at first but caught on. It had me worried for a little while. I still have to double glow though I was sure new plugs would fix that. Danny
__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#7
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You can't drive 123 cars close to a million miles without having to start them from a no fuel condition a few times. I have tried several different methods and here is what I have found to be FOOLPROOF for starting one that has run out of fuel or has been apart.
First of all IF THE IP HAS HAD SERIOUS WORK, APPLY VACUUM TO THE SHUTOFF SOLENOID AND MAKE SURE THAT THE STOP LINKAGE MOVES. IF IT DOES NOT MOVE THE ENGINE MAY RUN AWAY. BE PREPARED WITH A 17MM OPEN END WRENCH IN HAND AND START LOOSENING INJECTOR LINES IF IT RUNS AWAY. If the engine has just run out of fuel or something, this precaution should not be necessary. Now for the procedure. Fill the main filter with fuel by filling it before installing it or with the primer pump until you hear the hiss/buzz sound at the main filter while pumping the primer pump. Lock the primer pump. Loosen all injector lines about one turn at the injectors and be ready to watch while an assistant cranks the engine. The engine will crank only a few seconds before you will see fuel dribbling from an injector or two. Have the assistant stop cranking at that point and tighten any injectors from which you see fuel dribbling. Have the assistant crank again until you see fuel dribbling from an injector and close that or those injectors. Repeat until fuel has dribbled from all injectors and all injector lines are tight. At this point assuming that you have good compression and no glow problem, the engine will bust right off. I would HIGHLY recommend this procedure if you are beside the road after running out of fuel because it will start the engine with the least amount of battery drain. My daughters 300D had a fuel gauge problem and we ran it out of fuel. My Dad brought us fuel and I used this procedure and probably did not run the starter more than 10 or 15 seconds. It works great. Don't worry about the fuel coming out. I used to think that the high pressure of that fuel would spurt out in a high pressure stream, but it just doesn't happen that way. Good luck, |
#8
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Quote:
The primer pump wont get fuel ABOVE the IP. I also remove the injector lines (as a unit) for changing GPs
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" Last edited by Brian Carlton; 02-09-2006 at 12:35 PM. |
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