Drip Tube? How does that work? I've seen it mentioned in the forums....is that some quasi-accurate way of checking the timing of the IP??

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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except for the 'quasi' part you got it about right.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Tom is correct, the drip tube timing method is VERY accurate. It involves removing the number one injection line, removing the fitting from the pump at number one, temporarily removing the little check valve below that fitting, replacing the fitting and then putting on the drip tube which is nothing more than a tube that fits in place of the injector line and is shaped in an upside down U.

With the harmonic balancer set to the timing point on the compression stroke of number one, loosen the IP bolts, pump the hand pump and turn the IP until you see one drip per second from the drip tube and then tighten the IP bolts and make sure you still get one drip per second. The pump is then timed.

Good luck,

I believe it should be tied down to Wide Open Throttle for this?

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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I find the drip tube method to be an acceptable method to check the timing, but, it's far from "very accurate". The problem with "1 drop per second" is it's fully dependent upon the pressure in the system and the height of the drip tube. I typically can get it timed within 2-3 degrees using this method........and that's more than acceptable. I don't believe that the method allows any better accuracy than this.

If you want perfect accuracy (1/2 degree or better), the RIV lights are the way to do......provided that you have the later model IP that will accept the pickup.

Yes, the books say to tie it to wide open throttle, but I have forgotten to do that before, remembered after I had set it, tied the throttle open and found no difference.

I am not contending that this is the most accurate timing method, but it is PLENTY accurate enough. I think that if you know how to do it properly it is mor accurate than 2 degrees.

Have a great day,

I believe that, if you know how to do it properly, it's more repeatable than 2 degrees. Whether you are actually getting the IP timing that you wish for is a completely different discussion.

The only way to confirm the accuracy of the method is to compare it to a more accurate method. I should give this a try with the SD. I know it to be perfectly timed at 15° ATDC using the RIV lights. Be interesting to see what the drip method gives.

I think I would go ahead and change the chain instead of putting in an offset key. If the chain is stretched, change it and be done with it. It is not a hard job to do.

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1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair

I agree about changing the chain, but if one decides to do that they should be aware of several things:

First of all, changing the chain alone may not get back all of the lost slack. The teeth of the sprockets wear also making up a small part of the error.

Also, if you're going to roll in a new chain, you really should change the guides and maybe even the tensioner.

Good luck,

I don't have the tools needed to check for stretch, so I am going to let my trusted mechanic adjust my valves and check the chain and guides for stretch and wear. I just turned 272k miles on the 1982 300sd.

Let's just say I want to have the parts available in the back seat - just in case something needs replacement cause I know I can buy them cheaper than he can - Exactly what parts would I need?

- the chain $114
- the link for the chain $2.59
- the triangle shaped guide rail (looks plastic) $4.28
- the elongated tensioner rail $26.11 (metal with a black coating)
- tensioner spring
- what about the tensioner? It is $73.10
- 48mm pivot pin $4.74
- there were two parts that also look like guides (one was 130mm $3 adn the other was 120mm $3 - which one?)

I figure it would be cheaper for him to go ahead and do this then than have to order parts and do it later.

I'm not going to do the chain unless it needs it, but figured the $150 in parts might be worth having on hand while he is inside the motor.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

Yes indeed, in most cases you can save a little bit by providing your own parts. The problem with that approach is that most shops prefer to provide their own parts. When they do so, if a part fails, THEY will be out the labor to replace the defective part. If you supply your own parts and one of them fails YOU will have to pay them all over again to do the work.

Assuming that you are using an independent shop, be FAIR with them. If you find a reputable shop and let them supply parts, they will have a better chance to make a living which means that they can stay in business longer and treat their customers better.

Taking your car to a shop is a two way street. Deal with them fairly and in most cases they will deal with YOU fairly.

Good luck,

Larry,

My local Mercedes Mechanic has been really good to me. He has a supplier who sells him the exact same parts. My mechanic does not mind me using my own parts. He uses a computer program to figure his labor. He has always been fair and beyond helpful. I consider him a friend. Even my Mercedes dealer will install my parts. The dealer parts are crazy expensive and the mechanic who works there on the older cars has been with them for over 25 years. He understands budgetary concerns too.

I was really asking what parts should I have on hand for this job?

Thanks.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup