Buying 300sd Bad Transmission - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mplafleur · #16 02-16-2006, 06:55 AM

I had the tranny in my SDL rebuilt for just a little over $1000.

I also had a 190D that had slipping problems at hot. It turned out to be a vacuum leak that ony occured when the part was hot.

Pete Burton · #17 02-16-2006, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

$2000 to rebuild a 722?

You have to be kidding, they're not that complex AT ALL. The converter doesn't need to be rebuilt (no lockup clutch), just a flush will do, MAYBE a rebalance. Figure $250-400 to yank the unit itself.

I was going to spend a few Bens to reseal them all (the SDL leaks like crazy) and since they're out I may as well replace the two clutch packs in there behind the pump. They're already out and such.

As I recall first, second, and reverse are all using bands, I still have yet to see a band wear out after many, many, many years + miles. I will not replace mine. The "Banner" rebuild kit with paper + rubber and two clutch packs is only around $180 from Bulk-part.com. I can't recall if it's Alto frictions or BW. Either way, they're fine. Figure maybe $100 more for thrust bearings too. Maybe a new TV Cable also.

I used the banner kit from bulkpart.com and would recommend it. It includes hardware and instructions for replacing the o-rings in the clutch drums that Tirebiter mentioned. I think the frictions were BW. A front pump bushing is $11, worth it. You might want to consider replacing the front band even though it won't be worn out. There are versions that make the 1-2 shift softer. I did not, but I wish I had, because mine shifts like new, including the overly firm 1-2.

anhydrous7 · #18 02-16-2006, 09:10 AM

Optimus. Was wondering what kind of shape the engine is in, in your totaled SD? What kind of miles is on it, if the engine is still good?

nokandolah · #19 02-16-2006, 10:02 AM

1982 300SD/104K miles per carfax. Sometimes but not all times it slips very badly when starting from stopped with the selector in D. Much better if starting in L most times but not all times. If car is level or slightly nose down it is almost always perfect. If starting nose up it almost always slips. I have run trans-x through it, drained and replaced fluid and filter. I also replaced the K-1 spring kit since I was in there anyway and it only cost $11. I have adjusted the bowden cable and get shifts at approximately right speeds. (Tach is dead). I bought a new restrictor to go between the main vacuum line and the modulator. I adjusted the modulator CCW two turns and get a very firm 1-2 shift once it is moving and much softer 2-3 and 3-4. Mity vac says vacuum drops from 13 to 0 as I rev up so the vacuum control seems to be working. So my question is, what affects the starting slippage from stopped and by what mystery can the nose up or down affect the slippage? I still drive it everyday but try to avoid stopping on an uphill incline but that is not always possible.

Pete Burton · #20 02-16-2006, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nokandolah

1982 300SD/104K miles per carfax. Sometimes but not all times it slips very badly when starting from stopped with the selector in D. Much better if starting in L most times but not all times. If car is level or slightly nose down it is almost always perfect. If starting nose up it almost always slips. I have run trans-x through it, drained and replaced fluid and filter. I also replaced the K-1 spring kit since I was in there anyway and it only cost $11. I have adjusted the bowden cable and get shifts at approximately right speeds. (Tach is dead). I bought a new restrictor to go between the main vacuum line and the modulator. I adjusted the modulator CCW two turns and get a very firm 1-2 shift once it is moving and much softer 2-3 and 3-4. Mity vac says vacuum drops from 13 to 0 as I rev up so the vacuum control seems to be working. So my question is, what affects the starting slippage from stopped and by what mystery can the nose up or down affect the slippage? I still drive it everyday but try to avoid stopping on an uphill incline but that is not always possible.

Sounds like an issue with B2 engagement

nokandolah · #21 02-16-2006, 11:32 AM

I thought B-2 affected forward and reverse. It goes into reverse immediately with a firm shift so I thought that eliminated B-2 as a problem. I am willing to pull it and see as I am at the end of my limited experience.
Thanks.

Pete Burton · #22 02-16-2006, 11:56 AM

Reverse is the "B3" clutch pack and is applied by an annularly shaped piston integral with the front pump assembly. In addition to the B2 piston, the actuating link between the piston and band should be selected so as to provide a band clearance of 5.5-6.0 mm. Any decent trans mechanic can do this if you're not comfortable with it. Good luck.

Hit Man X · #23 02-16-2006, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

I used the banner kit from bulkpart.com and would recommend it. It includes hardware and instructions for replacing the o-rings in the clutch drums that Tirebiter mentioned. I think the frictions were BW. A front pump bushing is $11, worth it. You might want to consider replacing the front band even though it won't be worn out. There are versions that make the 1-2 shift softer. I did not, but I wish I had, because mine shifts like new, including the overly firm 1-2.

Superior has a valve body kit to adjust the firmness of the shifts. Less expensive than a new band for sure. Gas and diesel. I emailed regarding if the gasser kit can make them all start in 1st, then replied to call Tech Line.

My '85+ cars have the updated band for a smoother 1-2.

Pete Burton · #24 02-16-2006, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Superior has a valve body kit to adjust the firmness of the shifts. Less expensive than a new band for sure. Gas and diesel. I emailed regarding if the gasser kit can make them all start in 1st, then replied to call Tech Line.

My '85+ cars have the updated band for a smoother 1-2.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=N68022B&Category_Code=722-3band&Product_Count=0

Hit Man X · #25 02-16-2006, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=N68022B&Category_Code=722-3band&Product_Count=0

Hrm, I've seen those bands over $100 before from MB. Go figure.

nokandolah · #26 03-05-2006, 06:01 PM

We finally had a warm day (40f) and I went in after the pesky B-2. I dropped the rear transmission mount and got a little more clearance. As predicted, the npiston came out in pieces. I bought the plastic sleeve but couldn't get the old metal/rubber seal out. I installed the new B-2 as it came out of the box without the spring. I stuck the dogbone in with some wheel bearing grease and slid the new piston in place. Then new one seems to have a short integral spring. It was pretty tricky getting the cover back on and the snap ring in. Picture me lying on my back in the snow. Melting ice dripping from the chassis. Finally got it all together and IT WORKS!!
Thanks to all the great advise from mercedesshop!