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  #1  
Old 02-16-2006, 11:42 PM
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Cooling System Flush Procedure Question?

I have a 350SDL that I would like to do a good cooling system flush on before I replace the anti freeze.

Is this procedure good: open radiator drain and open block drain, drain what is in the system now, remove the themostat, add fresh water and a flush/clean product thru the top radiator hose, drive it for a while, flush the cleaner out by opening the radiator drain and flushing out the system with a water hose into the overflow tank and the engine running, replace thermostat refill with distilled water and Merceds brand anti freeze and be done? Will this procedure work?

What sort of flush product should I use?

Thank you.


Last edited by ezrider; 02-16-2006 at 11:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2006, 11:57 PM
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Why do you want to do a flush? Unless the coolant is visibly dirty, there's no reason to do it. I'd just drain the system completely, run a little bit of water through it (with the engine off) and then refill it. I don't know about taking out the thermostat or running the engine while flushing it, I always get nervous about localized hot spots that could crack something. Be sure to fill the block through the upper radiator hose first and only when the engine is cold! Also don't dump any of the coolant, even if it's diluted, onto the street. It seeps into the soil and ground water and it's extremely toxic.

If you didn't already know Zerex G05 is the same thing as MB coolant, but it's cheaper.
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2006, 12:55 AM
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I know Bonehead has posted a great article about flushing. I would do a search on here. It is the full works. But if you are going to do it, I would guess you might want to do the real deal.
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Old 02-17-2006, 12:58 AM
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Is the engine drain plug in an obvious place not hidden by a bunch of junk? Cause I have seen something that looks like a drain plug on my 85 300D(a big recessed allen bolt looking thing on the driver side of the engine) but from pictures I've seen it is below and kinda of hard to get to, this seemed too easy to get at.
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Old 02-17-2006, 09:19 AM
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Ara t.,

The plug you mentioned on the driver side is one of four access holes for the cooling system. I believe two are plugged, one is used for the temp. gauge sensor & one for the heater hose outlet just behind the oil filter housing. It is extremely tight. The drain plug you want can be accessed with a socket/wrench on the passenger side forward & above the starter bracket.
It may be a pain to get to with things in the way, but that's the one you want to remove. Paul.

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Old 05-18-2006, 11:38 PM
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I drained/flushed and refilled the coolant on my 83 300d turbo on tuesday but today it was running a bit hotter than normal (usually right on 80, today it was around 95ish). Is it reccomended that you change your t-stat when you flush the system?
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Old 05-19-2006, 08:01 AM
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I would do the t-stat when the coolant was renewed just so you can do both at the same time. Flush the coolant every 2 years to keep it up to snuff.
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:11 AM
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My citric acid flush how to
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Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 05-19-2006 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 05-19-2006, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signalredcoupe
Ara t.,

The plug you mentioned on the driver side is one of four access holes for the cooling system. I believe two are plugged, one is used for the temp. gauge sensor & one for the heater hose outlet just behind the oil filter housing. It is extremely tight. The drain plug you want can be accessed with a socket/wrench on the passenger side forward & above the starter bracket.
It may be a pain to get to with things in the way, but that's the one you want to remove. Paul.
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The 350 is not a 617 engine, so the above isn't applicable.
The 350 starter is on the drivers side and the block drain is easily accessed on the passenger side but it isn't a hex bolt, its a nice valve! MB got it right (finally). You can attach a hose to the barb on it and turn it open to drain into a bucket or whatever.

As for a flush, this is primarily for removing scale from the radiator but maybe some built up in the block too and is a good idea for a cooling system with many years/miles on it.
I recommend at least two or three flushes following any acid treatment to get ALL of the stuff out. You have to run the engine up to normal temps and open the heater full on to get all the stuff out.
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2006, 12:57 PM
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the link did not work for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
this takes me to a godaddy.com ad site.
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  #11  
Old 05-19-2006, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech
this takes me to a godaddy.com ad site.
sorry about that...some people feel the need to censor my sites name. So I will not repost it here.


click here
and search for citric acid. All my How-to's will be posted there...not here in the future for the duration of that censoring.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 05-19-2006 at 01:29 PM.
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