That's exactly the condition I have. I'm sure it's the turbo causing the consumption.

Which vacuum connection hose did he plug?? The EGR is up at the top of the engine on the intake manifold.

The consumption is fine, provided it does not bother you. In my case, I can smell the Rotella-T, especially right after an oil change. I can't fathom why the smell gets worse after an oil change, but, I'll probably rebuild the turbo and see if I can eliminate it.

Brian,

I'm pretty sure it was the EGR hose, mechanic said it would stop the intake from the turbo getting gummed up which it seriously was when he took it apart to replace the turbo. Does this sound right?

He's right on the money.

ez, are you saying that the master mech installed a defective turbo and wasnt able to recognize it?
larry perkins

Larry,

After I failed to get MB to fix the turbo out of warranty I had it done by a local independent who shortly thereafter went out of business. I've been living with it since.

Since then and with MB dealership personnel turnover I have developed a great relationship there and I also use another independent for some things.

Thank you.

Can someone please comment on the advisability of replacing the valve guides and stem seals (to maybe stop some of my oil consumption) while the head is off to do the gasket job (provided the compression test is good and everything else on the head looks ok)?

What's a best guess on what replacing guides and seals might cost (I forgot to ask the dealer today)?

Thank you.

Post #2.

The guides and seals cost about $150. or so. The cost to install them shouldn't be more than $100. or so. You normally do it as a part of a valve job when the head is sent out to a proper machine shop.

So it would not be appropiate to do just the guides and seals in my case (just trying to be clear)?

Thank you.

The engine has 175K on the clock. You have made the effort to remove the head. You have made the effort to send the head to a competent shop to do guides and seals. The valves have to be removed to do this.

Are you really going to just leave the valves.......as is.......without grinding faces and seats and without measuring the stems for size?

Be foolish to me........but it's just MHO.

ez, first thing the dealer is going to hit you with on those valve guides is that mercedes dont offer a standard guide for the 3.5 head,he will want to machine the head so that oversize guides will fit. better ask first.
the standard size that trw has i believe are about 10 bucks a guide and fit perfect,no reason to do any machine work.i get time i will look up because i used a set last week on a 3.5(91sdl)
dont have a clue to the total cost but parts are less than 150.00
larry perkins

I second Mr. Carlton's advice; I recently had the head removed on the Volvo because the head gasket started weeping coolant behind the IP, and because after 390,000+ miles the valves were shot. The cost of the stem seals and guides is minimal and should be done while the head is off; it certainly can't do anything but help any oil consumption issues (assuming, of course, it's done right)--for me, I was using a quart every 750-800 miles, and now, over 2,000 miles since the work, I'm just a tiny bit below the full line on the dipstick. IMHO, the valves should be done as well--the Volvo is a 6 cyl, and the cost of the above items (seals, guides, valves) was under $375 for me; since I had quite a bit of other work done as well, the total cost to me was on the high side, but the parts you specifically ask about were NOT a significant expense, even w/ the cost of the valves added in. While you've got it all apart, get it all done; the head isn't cheap to get taken off, and you've got 175k---just my $0.02...

The local Porsche dealership took a '91 350 SD in trade a few weeks ago; I test drove it and WOW it was an amazing drive--they are nice cars, to say the least. This one had low miles, but several of the service receipts in the glove-box indicated that "oil was LOW" on numerous occasions when the car went in for service. I got scared (I read too many rod-bender tales!!) and it sold shortly thereafter anyway (for more $$ than I would have paid). One of these days, I'm going to have to 'graduate' from the 80s models to the 90s... Good luck with yours; they're very nice--

-Chris

__________________
Christopher
'06 Mercedes E350 station wagon (silver/black)
'85 Mercedes 300D (black pearl/palomino)
'85 Mercedes 300SD (smoke silver/burgundy)
'79 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

'05 Toyota Camry (because always running is nice)

'85 Mercedes 300D sold back to orig. owner 8-1-06
'84 Volvo 264GL Diesel, owned 2000-2013

to make with my car when the head gasket began leaking last August at 204K although the situation was a bit different. I had oil intrusion into the cooling system so the possibility of a damaged head came into play. Nevertheless, the car was in otherwise wonderful condition so I decided to invest what was needed hoping the head was salvagable. Its a calculated risk not knowing what will be found but you could easily be surprised (the bent rod syndrome isn't universal).

I had a very good indie do the work and he instructed the machine shop to proceed deliberately (magna-flux), evaluate and recommend. The head conditioning included a minimal surface plane, new valve inserts and seals. The valves and seats only required some grinding to clean up. Not bad and fully expected at 200K miles!

The repair cost about $2200 out the door including all the ancillary items like oil change, cooling flush, engine degrease, belts, etc. I've since put about 10K miles on with no problems and use about 25% of a quart between changes, always at the point of change or 3K miles.

So, if you enjoy the car and feel there is value in the investment, go do it...

__________________
2001 E320
1991 350SD 265,000 - SOLD
2000 VW Beetle 1.8Turbo - restored
1997 E320 - SOLD
1988 190E - SOLD
1969 Mustang - SOLD

The compression was checked in my engine before the head was pulled and a reading of 375 was found in each cylinder.

Head was removed and head gasket and timing chain were replaced. Timing was dead on without any adjustment needed afterwards. Mechanic said the engine looked unusually good inside and that no other engine work including a valve job was recommended at this time.

To me the engine now runs as good as it ever did.

Thanks to everyone who particpated in this thread.

ez would you share with the forum the cost of all work performed?
larry perkins lou ky