doing my oil change as we speak.. i do the steps as the diy says that i found here.. and the oil drain plug is.. stuck.. some idiot must of taken the car to a crappy place and they used the air gun to stick th eplug back in .. the copper washer is like almost in the threads or is!.. crap and the oil when i took the filter out is like water!!! i need to do this.. i need a new oil pan also .. but i need to change the oil now it looks like it hasnt been changed in like for ever


help

You'll be able to get it out. The forum will not let you down.

Try putting a breaker bar on it. If you strip the bolt head you can always put a pair of vise-grips on it and break it loose that way, but you will have to buy a new drain plug. Good luck.
I was in the same situation as you with a toyota manual tranny, but someone had already screwed the bolt all up before me so I had to put vise-grips on it and break it loose, and then buy a new plug.

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spray the drain plug with penetrating oil and hitch a ride to the McParts store to get some type of oil stabilizer.

add the stabilizer whilst you wait a while for the penetrating oil to do its job... if the oil is THAT bad, itll give you some time. i dont care if anyone jumps on this and scolds me as the terrible benz owner they think i am or not...

engine flush every other oil change for all of my cars(except the vw) i dont know if it really does anything, but i like to pretend itll help the sludge not kill my car like it did my brothers-- he had a ram suck up a chunk of sludge and it killed the engine at 86k... warranty work was refused because they said he hadnt serviced it correctly and i wanted my neon to last longer than that. its at 140k now and runs really well, maybe ive done my job ok

getting a stuck bolt unscrewed is NOT rocket science. i dont want to be crochety, but does it deserve its own thread, really?

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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg

Ya Been there but you will get through it.

I bought a PSD in which someone had put the oil filter on so tight I couldn't get it with my wrench....My wrench actually broke. So I went the welder and tac'd it back together and the shaft bent....Damn....So I went and got a long tube (about 4 feet) welded the hell out of it and stuck it on there. It crunched the can into a million pieces and poked wholes in it but if finally came off

Moral of the story. YOU CAN DO IT

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76 300D 130K "Stella" (Sold )
74 240D 299K (Donated to Highschool For Senior Project WVO)
83 300TDT 290K (My one and only)
Sanford, NC

You asked for it, you got it. If you have sludge bad enough to need some sort of engine flush, it's alreadly too late. What happens when the flush breaks that slush loose and it goes through the oil pump?

Just change your oil often and preferably while it is hot, and you won't have a sludge problem.

TheDon,

If the engine will run there is a product that will liquefy the sludge called Auto-Rx you might want to check it Auto-Rx.com good luck.

Clean the oil pan and have a fire extinguisher (sp. correct!) handy. Then get a butane torch and heat the oil pan. The plug should come right out.

It helps if their isn't oil in the pan because it does draw a lot of heat off. So if you have acess to a Topsider or something similer suck the oil out first. You will also want to have a new drain plug on hand because the old one will be messed up a bit.

Now when you put the new plug in remember to just snug it enough so it doesn't leak, don't go crazy.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

the best advice i have EVER heard about torquing bolts down is to watch the ligaments in your wrist. theyll let you know if something is tight

i, myself, i just tighten it with my fingers and turn it 1/2 turn with the wrench after i cant with my fingers anymore. its never gotten too tight; but those spin-on filters, though... theyre for the birds, arent they?

to answer the sub-thread discussion, ive changed my oil every 3-5k on the car since it had 230 miles on it, it ought to not have any sludge, dammit. but the mercedes i couldnt tell you about sludge in, i also dont believe mr don ever mentioned sludge, but i thought about it since he was discussing terrible oil quality issues.

i originally thought that engine flush(it really burns my buns that they call it motor flush--motors are electric, dammit) would help the really bad black oil the mercedes had in it-- i didnt know it was soot in suspension and not burned, clumpy oil inside, ya know?

so... mr don-- have you been tinkering today? we want an update

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I panicked first. Then calmed down. Then went to the mechanic shop, who told me that if he busted the oil pan, he wouldn't be held responsible. I decided I could bust my own oil pan. Then I took my hack saw and filed a slit into the bolt and then got a small chisel and tapped very forcefully on the bolt head until it came loose. Then it happened again! Turns out that the aluminum in the hole on the 603 had begun to strip in places, which made the bolt tighten excessively without too much effort. However, as a last resort on the 85, you can just unbolt the pan to get that bad oil out of there.

Benz Diesel

Kinda wierd that you have over 1300 posts and are all nuts about your MB but are just now getting it registered and changing the oil for the first time. Changing the fluids is the very first thing you should do, hope for your car's sake you haven't been driving around all this time without legal registration and with engine oil that has lost its viscosity.

'-I Like My Post Count High Like My Compression-'

keep driving around with worn-out oil and your compression will drop like a rock

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

got if off.. just used a ford wrench (hammer) and pounded on my craftsman ratchet.. got it right off ..

now the oil doesnt drip out at all since the new oil is in better shape than what was in their.. and the engine sounds quieter and doesnt shake as bad when shutting down

thanks for all your help

I've owned a couple of Ford wrenches and they weren't hammers. A Ford wrench was an adjustable wrench that looked a bit like a pipe wrench, but had smooth jaws. Come to think of it, I still have one deep in the recesses of my tool box. They were great for rounding of the heads of bolts.

Uh, I don't think that the young man has his license yet, or either JUST got it.

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

You could get a topsider and suck it all out from the oil fill tube.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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