Changed the fuel filters, ...
 

I'm glad I did it in the garage, not on the road. The manual says it's self-priming, just crank with the throttle floorboarded until it runs smoothly, up to 1minute at a time, ran the battery dead. Probably need a new battery anyway, but I think I'll carry a quart of ATF to prime the filter next time.

- Jeff Miller
190DT

Yeah just fill the filter with power service diesel kleen and just start it up that way. Easier on the starter instead of having to crank the hell out of it.

You can also crack the #4 fuel line open at the injector to speed up the process. Pick the #4 because its the longest line and easiest to detatch from the injector.

And deffinitely warm up the engine to normal operating temperature first. This will be important for easier restarting when the injectors are spitting air.

I guess for all intents and purposes the hand priming pump is worthless. On my 240D it just makes a sloppy mess.

If your priming pump is leaking then it should be changed out to keep from drawing air into the fuel system. The new style is much easier and about $20.

As for the post about starting after a fuel filter change and no priming pump, yes, definitely start and warm up the engine before changing. I have one of the old NA Ford 6.9L and, even with two batteries, it was nearly impossible to start unless warmed up after a filter change.

This myth has been proven wrong, the IP will pump air with the Injector lines attached just as quickly as if its detached.

Don't bother disconnecting IP lines unless its to check for fuel flow etc... If your just priming the system you don't need to.

Eh? Mechanical injection and the lines are unequal lengths? I haven't really looked, but this smacks of bad karma when you start to consider port-effect at higher RPM.

- Jeff Miller
190DT