w124 SLS valve on w123 wagon?
 

I need a new SLS valve for my 81 300td (w123 wagon), but am having a hard time sourcing one. (Have fluid flow to resovoir and no system leaks but no ride height adjustments are made by the system.) Rebuilding my current valve is an option but I am worried about messing it up and then having the car be immobile while I wait for additional parts. The part number for the correct valve is 1233200158. I can only source used valves with the part number 1233200258 (it is more rounded rather than a square unit), which I am assuming is for the w124 wagon and various other newer models. Is it possible to use this newer valve on a w123 wagon? Has anyone here tried it?

Edit:

Here is the link to the 0258 part that I am thinking of purchasing to try on my w123 wagon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-300TD-560-190E-2-3-16-self-leveling-valve-SLS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQitemZ7958367167QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks,
Glenn

I have wondered the same thing.

The valve rebuild isn't difficult. Just pay close attention to the way things are when you pull the valve apart.

anyone?
 

I take it from everyone's silence that this has never been tried? How about shortening the length of the connecting linkage rod from the swar bar to the switch? Would this work because the valve still works, just in a different range of angles? I have already adjusted mine as short as it would go so I will have to fab my own linkage if anyone thinks this is feasible.

Thanks,
Glenn

too stupid?
 

I have noticed that if someone makes a post that is just way off base, no one bothers to reply. Is that the case here? Am I totally talking out of my butt and no one cares to comment on such stupidity?

Please, someone verify my sanity.

Glenn

sanity
 

You can adjust the linkage where it attaches to the bar
ie take loose the u bolt but be careful as the car will eaisily drop almost a foot.
is this clear ?
JOHN

are the hose fittings different in any way? most of us have not answered since we are not graced with the ability to pull one off a shelf and compare to another sibe by side. Its not a stupid post...just one few are able to answer.

I already adjusted the linkage so there is no more adjustment left, hence I was asking about making my own shorter linkage but have not adjusted on the bar. I tried adjusting where the control arm mounts on the valve, but that is non adjustable. I will have to look at where the top arm mounts onto the sway bar.

I asked the question because I didn't have the parts to compare side by side either. I think I will soon though. 100 day money back guarantee, so I will buy it and see if it will work. If it doesn't, I will just send it back.

Thanks for the sanity check.

Glenn

Sooooooo
 

Did it work?

Never got to it
 

I got the part(s). He actually sent me 3 valves. (2 for 123 and 1 for 124). My pressure hose also decided to spring a leak. I got some fluid and set the suspension where I wanted it and then disconnected the linkage.

The ride height remains the same. I even had the car loaded with about 1000 pounds and it sat at the same level.

I got side tracked with other projects and never got back to fixing this one.

The valves look different, and I thought I remember thinking the 124 valve wouldn't work unless some customization was done, but it has been a long time since I looked at them. I can dig them out and try to answer specific questions if you would like.

Thanks,
Glenn

Thanks for following up. I don't have any specific questions. I'm going to replace mine with a used one and see if I can rebuild the existing valve. So I wondered how similar or dissimilar they are.

Chris

They have exactly the same function: the valve opens a port between the pump and the dampers when the ride is too low, opens a port to return/reservoir when above ride height, closed when at ride height.
The T124 valve has a port for each side, not sure whether the T123 does. If the same amount of ports, the same threads, they are interchangeable provided you are willing to make your own brackets and possibly modify the lines to the new locations, this alone makes it a pretty big project though. Then you will need to fabricate a new link rod (adjustable preferrably).
Operating pressure should be the same, and the same fluid.

interesting project, I'd expect it to go the other way though since the T124 valve is supposedly non-rebuildable and the T123 valve has a rebuild kit available.

valve trigger point?
 

Hi, newbie owner here and exploring the forum and just found this thread. I just got an 85 300TD and found my system didn't seem to work, even with fairly heavy loads. But when I crawled under the car and pushed arm on the valve up maybe a good 3/4" the car picked itself right up. Of course in doing so I was fighting the torsion in the cross rod pretty hard. But anyhow it seems that the system works but does not trigger until the back end is VERY weighted down. I had carried two large tubs of dirt for the yard and measured at least 1-1/4" drop (at the axle, not the back end) and it wouldn't pick up then. Studying the linkage it appears that there is approx 2:1 ratio of movement at the springs vs on the valve, so I'd have had to load the car to more like 1-1/2" plus. Seems like the system should trigger well before that point.

So the question is: How far should the lever on the valve deflect before it begins to lift the car. Or how far should the back end of the car drop before it lifts. I'm trying to figure out if my linkage just needs adjustment or if the valve needs a rebuild or something.

Thanks

If you don't have a really stiff or bouncy ride, than I would start by adjust the linkage.

Thanks for the quick reply. What makes me suspicious though is that when the car is unloaded, the valve lever is at it's centered or neutral position. I could adjust it to kick in sooner, but the lever would then be off center quite a bit. I would tend to think the valve is designed to sit with the lever centered. So that makes me think it has some wear and why I'm asking the question about how sensitive the valve should be to lever deflection.

dont mess w/ the linkage just yet- it should be in spec unless someone already tinkered w/ it, or something is bent.

I had an issue w/ the arm where it connects to the valve. the arm was loose, so sometimes my ass end would raise way up there. I got under and tightened this up, and it is now fine. if you look at it, you will see where I mean.

also- how are the links on each wheel which connect the sway bar to the trailing arm?

Thanks for the reply.

All the linkage stuff looks pretty good at first glance. Bypassing all the linkage and moving the valve by hand, it takes a lot of throw before it triggers to raise the car. That's why I'm suspicous of the valve itself. Does anybody know how far the lever on the valve has to move before it starts raising the car? The valve works, just not soon enough. Is that typical for a worn valve?

OK, more information = different answer. If you need to move the lever on the valve more than a small amount, than it may need to be rebuilt. That was the problem with mine and I replaced it. The valve on the 123 can be rebuilt the 124 cannot, so says MB. I have not had time to take my old valve apart yet to see if I can repair it.

Working better now
 

I got under there again and noticed that with no load the arm on the valve was actually quite a bit below center, contrary to what I reported before. There was about 1/2" of thread available in the connecting rod and I ended up turning it all the way in. Now the arm is right about center. I also moved the rod-end to the other hole which is closer to the pivot, so would get more angular change with the same amount of up motion.

This afternoon at work, I was chatting with two friends outside nearby my car and seized the opportunity. They are both full sized people, at least 400 pounds total. Opened the tailgate and had them sit on the backend. Only toes on the ground so they could easily sense when it lifted. Started the engine and looked back and could see it lift up. In fact it seemed like maybe it went too high! So I got under there when I got home and moved the rod-end back to the other hole on the lever. The lever still is sitting about centered. Will try another test when I get the chance, but looks like I'm on the right track for now. The alternate hole made it about 1/3 more sensitive as far as motion to trigger it. Hopefully it's still sensitive enough back in the regular hole.

I'd still like to see some height data on how far you should have to load down the back end before it kicks in, but for now seems like it's working somewhat reasonably. I don't think they had it squatted as far today as the tubs of dirt I carried the other day and it didn't lift then.

Roger that. The lever doesn't have to move very far to actuate pressure.
Another test is to see if the back end drops down at all overnight. With no extra load, it should sit where it was when the engine was shut off even a week later.
Internally leaking seals will cause it to drop down in just a few hours.
I have another 123 SLS valve rebuild kit, in case someone needs one send me a PM but be aware they are around $80. In the MB box.

Along the lines of this post, I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the 123 320 02 58 SLS valve?

I have a valve that I purchased that came in a Pierburg box with the number "123 320 02 58" on the outside, but it appears to be squarish in appearance. (As mentioned in the beginning of this thread for the 123 320 01 58 valve.) In checking the Mercedes EPC, the SLS valve for my 1987 300TDT is the 123 320 02 58 and it appears to have been superceded a few times; the current valve is 202 320 02 58.

I also looked at the SLS valve that is currently in my 1987 300TDT and it has the rounded appearance and it looks different than the SLS valve that I purchased. I am try to determine if the valve I purchased truly is a 123 320 02 58, and if it will work on my 1987 300TDT.

Thanks in advance.

-Steve

I have pictures of the 123 328 05 31 valve.
 

This is the one I took of my '87 300TD earlier this year.

Bio300TDTdriver,

Thanks for the pictures. They were very enlightening. It looks like I actually have a valve for a W123 wagon. Apparently the box was mislabeled with the part number 123 320 02 58.

I have attached a picture of what the valve I have looks like. (My valve is identical except for blue thread locker instead of yellow as shown in the picture.) Mine is made by Pierburg. The part number for the valve I have is actually 123 320 01 58. As I suspected I have the wrong valve for my W124 wagon. Know anyone who wants a new W123 SLS valve? The new W124 valves seem to run close to $400 these days.

Oh well. Thanks again for the pictures.

-Steve