I need a new SLS valve for my 81 300td (w123 wagon), but am having a hard time sourcing one. (Have fluid flow to resovoir and no system leaks but no ride height adjustments are made by the system.) Rebuilding my current valve is an option but I am worried about messing it up and then having the car be immobile while I wait for additional parts. The part number for the correct valve is 1233200158. I can only source used valves with the part number 1233200258 (it is more rounded rather than a square unit), which I am assuming is for the w124 wagon and various other newer models. Is it possible to use this newer valve on a w123 wagon? Has anyone here tried it?

Edit:

Here is the link to the 0258 part that I am thinking of purchasing to try on my w123 wagon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-300TD-560-190E-2-3-16-self-leveling-valve-SLS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQitemZ7958367167QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks,
Glenn

I have wondered the same thing.

The valve rebuild isn't difficult. Just pay close attention to the way things are when you pull the valve apart.

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I take it from everyone's silence that this has never been tried? How about shortening the length of the connecting linkage rod from the swar bar to the switch? Would this work because the valve still works, just in a different range of angles? I have already adjusted mine as short as it would go so I will have to fab my own linkage if anyone thinks this is feasible.

Thanks,
Glenn

I have noticed that if someone makes a post that is just way off base, no one bothers to reply. Is that the case here? Am I totally talking out of my butt and no one cares to comment on such stupidity?

Please, someone verify my sanity.

Glenn

You can adjust the linkage where it attaches to the bar
ie take loose the u bolt but be careful as the car will eaisily drop almost a foot.
is this clear ?
JOHN

are the hose fittings different in any way? most of us have not answered since we are not graced with the ability to pull one off a shelf and compare to another sibe by side. Its not a stupid post...just one few are able to answer.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I already adjusted the linkage so there is no more adjustment left, hence I was asking about making my own shorter linkage but have not adjusted on the bar. I tried adjusting where the control arm mounts on the valve, but that is non adjustable. I will have to look at where the top arm mounts onto the sway bar.

I asked the question because I didn't have the parts to compare side by side either. I think I will soon though. 100 day money back guarantee, so I will buy it and see if it will work. If it doesn't, I will just send it back.

Thanks for the sanity check.

Glenn

Did it work?

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

I got the part(s). He actually sent me 3 valves. (2 for 123 and 1 for 124). My pressure hose also decided to spring a leak. I got some fluid and set the suspension where I wanted it and then disconnected the linkage.

The ride height remains the same. I even had the car loaded with about 1000 pounds and it sat at the same level.

I got side tracked with other projects and never got back to fixing this one.

The valves look different, and I thought I remember thinking the 124 valve wouldn't work unless some customization was done, but it has been a long time since I looked at them. I can dig them out and try to answer specific questions if you would like.

Thanks,
Glenn

Thanks for following up. I don't have any specific questions. I'm going to replace mine with a used one and see if I can rebuild the existing valve. So I wondered how similar or dissimilar they are.

Chris

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

They have exactly the same function: the valve opens a port between the pump and the dampers when the ride is too low, opens a port to return/reservoir when above ride height, closed when at ride height.
The T124 valve has a port for each side, not sure whether the T123 does. If the same amount of ports, the same threads, they are interchangeable provided you are willing to make your own brackets and possibly modify the lines to the new locations, this alone makes it a pretty big project though. Then you will need to fabricate a new link rod (adjustable preferrably).
Operating pressure should be the same, and the same fluid.

interesting project, I'd expect it to go the other way though since the T124 valve is supposedly non-rebuildable and the T123 valve has a rebuild kit available.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Hi, newbie owner here and exploring the forum and just found this thread. I just got an 85 300TD and found my system didn't seem to work, even with fairly heavy loads. But when I crawled under the car and pushed arm on the valve up maybe a good 3/4" the car picked itself right up. Of course in doing so I was fighting the torsion in the cross rod pretty hard. But anyhow it seems that the system works but does not trigger until the back end is VERY weighted down. I had carried two large tubs of dirt for the yard and measured at least 1-1/4" drop (at the axle, not the back end) and it wouldn't pick up then. Studying the linkage it appears that there is approx 2:1 ratio of movement at the springs vs on the valve, so I'd have had to load the car to more like 1-1/2" plus. Seems like the system should trigger well before that point.

So the question is: How far should the lever on the valve deflect before it begins to lift the car. Or how far should the back end of the car drop before it lifts. I'm trying to figure out if my linkage just needs adjustment or if the valve needs a rebuild or something.

Thanks

If you don't have a really stiff or bouncy ride, than I would start by adjust the linkage.

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Thanks for the quick reply. What makes me suspicious though is that when the car is unloaded, the valve lever is at it's centered or neutral position. I could adjust it to kick in sooner, but the lever would then be off center quite a bit. I would tend to think the valve is designed to sit with the lever centered. So that makes me think it has some wear and why I'm asking the question about how sensitive the valve should be to lever deflection.

dont mess w/ the linkage just yet- it should be in spec unless someone already tinkered w/ it, or something is bent.

I had an issue w/ the arm where it connects to the valve. the arm was loose, so sometimes my ass end would raise way up there. I got under and tightened this up, and it is now fine. if you look at it, you will see where I mean.

also- how are the links on each wheel which connect the sway bar to the trailing arm?

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.