LCA bushing & Trailing Arm bushing replacement

[SD Blue]

After finishing replacement of lower control arm and trailing arm bushings, I was encouraged to post some info here for those who may be looking to do this in the future.

Notes on the front lower control arm bushings:
Compress the springs with weight on wheels (keeps the springs from bowing)and using a MB coil spring compressor.
Mark well the position of the eccentric bolt to retain your alignment.
Removed rotor and placed LCA in a good vise to remove bushings. A hook style pry bar and small sledge worked best for removing the end caps from the bushings.
Reinstall the bushings with the "flat" sides aligned with the "flat" of the lower control arm.
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Notes on the trailing arm bushings:
Remove the rear seat and shocks.
Again compress springs with weight on wheels and using a MB compressor.
The front of the subframe will need to be detached and lowered in order to remove the outer bolt from the trailing arm.
On the passenger, inner bushing, you will need to take loose and move to the side the drive shaft flex plate in order to get the last 1/2" clearance to remove the bolt.

Some tools I used:
A section of all thread (5/16"), w/ nuts and washers and 3/4" sockets (Harbor Freight specials, etc.) to press the bushings in and out worked extremely well.
Use assembly lube such as Dow Corning 4 or even KY, on the new bushings to prevent the surface from being abraded and shortening their life.

It was a lot of work, doing both the front and rear, but now am enjoying the results. The ride has improved significantly, both in control and smoothness.

[dannym]

That all threads a good idea. I would have thought you needed a hydraulic press.

Danny

[dannym]

I just recently noticed front drivers side outer tire wear/positive camber. So I'm going to replace some bushings before I get an alignment. I have a couple of questions first.

How hard is it to get the old LCA bushings out? Did the hammer and prybar work good or would a pitman arm puller work better?

How hard are the LCA bushings to press back in? Will this work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search

I've heard the idler arms can be a PITA too.

Thanks

Danny

[SD Blue]

I don't see how a pitman arm or gear puller would work. The problem is there is nothing in the center to push against in order for them to operate.

What I found to work best are the pry bars, and yes I believe they were harbor freight cheap. Get the ones that have a prying hook on the end, such as the ones shown in the bottom portion of this photo.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200140724&R=200140724

Using the hooked portion and a small sledge resulted in the easiest removal. Once I "discovered" what worked best, they were not all that bad.

[Pete Burton]

Sam, where did you get the bushings and how much did it set you back? Decent quality?

[dannym]

OK....hammer and pry bars it is!

How much force does it take to get them back in?
Will that C press work?

Danny

[boneheaddoctor]

To press in bushings use a piece of 1/2" all-thread and an assortment of flat washers to fit and two nuts...a dab of silicone grease makes the bushings go in easier.

[rs899]

Sam


Did the rear bushings seem all that worn out? The rear seems to me to be a lot of work to get to, just to get those bushings out.

Rick

[SD Blue]

Pete,
I don't recall exactly how much the cost was, about $40 per axle, I think. They were ordered with several other items. If I recall, nearly everyone on-line was close to the same.

Danny,
Pressing them back in was fairly easy. Silicone grease (a.k.a. Dow Cowning 4) is a must. 1/2" all-thread, nuts & a stack of washers, and cheap 3/4" drive (Harbor Freight) socket set did the trick.

Rick,
Actually, the inboard trailing arm bushings were in very bad condition, especially the drivers' side. Being constantly bombarded with conditions, such as oil leaks, probably did not help it's lifespan. It was a good day of work.

As with most of my projects on this car, all of the swearing, muttering, sweating, etc. are expended on learning to do the first bushing and the rest seem to go in without a snag. (I still haven't come across a good way to eliminate the learning curve on the first one. ) However, this job did so much to improve the drive quality.