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  #16  
Old 03-06-2006, 01:32 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinGreaseCar
I guess i have to have patience.. something in short supply when it comes to fixing up this cool car I just got.



I will see what the gauge reads when i get it. I think the most effect will be the ALDA adjustment... as the car is sluggish pre boost. It still has the factory seal on at 169k

How do I tell which kind of turbo I have?

More threads to search now..
JP
look at the wastegate can....if it faces the front of the car you have a Garrett T-3

if it faces the right front tire you have a KKK.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2006, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
no...the wastegate actuator uses boost pressure to overcome spring pressure holding the wastegate closed and open the wastegate when pressure is greater than that spring pressure (wastegate is a bypass to the exhaust turbine of the turbo) take that away from a leak or whatever (hose off) and it never opens continuing to build boost up to the limits of the turbo or until the motor goes bye-bye. Whichever comes first.
I still beg to differ. If the rubber hose leading to the actuator is broken or cracked almost all or most of the boost would be lost through the cracked/broken hose.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2006, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbuge
I still beg to differ. If the rubber hose leading to the actuator is broken or cracked almost all or most of the boost would be lost through the cracked/broken hose.
through a 1/4 inch hole? No its not. you will lose a little but not much, take a look at the CFM rating at 15 psi boost or 20 even....tell me how you are going to get that out of a 1/4 hole at that boost level and you will see my point.

Plus don't believe me yet..hook up a boost guage to your car...pull off and disable your overboost switch if its not already. take off your wastegate hose...floor it for even 200 feet out the road and report back what your boost guage reads....I promise you its over 20 psi...
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 03-06-2006 at 02:06 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2006, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H-townbenzoboy
I just went out and tested it. That sucker didn't pass the tests, looks like I'm going to have to go out and get a new one. Thanks for your help everyone.

-Joe
The switchover valve could be taken apart and cleaned as a temporary measure. There is a pointed rubber piston in the valve that could get stuck with crud coming from the intake manifold. At +-20 yrs old, it could get really dirty inside. Just vwondering if a prefilter would be a good idea for that valve?
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2006, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
you will continue to be fine too, until your wastegate hose breaks, developes a leak, or pops off. Then you have problems.


The overboost solenoid is a failsafe if that ever happens.
A redundant or backup system, perhaps. But not failsafe. A failsafe system fails to the safe mode. The switchover valve doe not do that.
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  #21  
Old 03-06-2006, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
A redundant or backup system, perhaps. But not failsafe. A failsafe system fails to the safe mode. The switchover valve doe not do that.
true....a real failsafe would work the opposite as it actually does, with the system holding open the boost to the alda with high boost cutting power and it venting as a base mode.

All in a choice of words.
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #22  
Old 03-06-2006, 11:35 PM
Brandon314159
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Hey,

I can tell you from personal experience that if the wastegate hose is disconnected from the wastegate and left OPEN TO AIR on the other end, it will overboost like no tomorrow.

Sure you loose some bottom end boost but after 3-3500RPM the turbo will easily overboost the engine until it starts to fall off due to the useage from the engine at, for example, 5krpm.

Forgot to hook mine up one night after doing some mods, and noticed that I was getting 21-22psi boost when normally my boost controller/stuff keeps it at 14-14.5psi. So I just massaged it home and kept it in the 12-13 range.

BTW on a stock car, you don't get benifits from going from 11psi to say, 14 or 15psi (as bhd said) however if you pump is modded...the extra psi is VERY useful and almost necessarily with a certain amount of fuel

Also it can affect air charge temps on a non-intercooled car and cause excess heat production. If you have an intercooler...extra boost can sometimes do good things
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  #23  
Old 03-09-2006, 01:52 AM
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Ah! I stand corrected. I was ignorant to the system. I see now how the whole thing works. I was under the false assumption that the boost is actually bled off through this hose.

never assume it makes an ASS out of U and ME
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