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  #16  
Old 03-14-2006, 07:33 AM
Lew Lew is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Temple, Georgia
Posts: 52
Very Happy!

Well, I just finished my first tank of diesel and am, so far, well pleased with my W126. I netted 28 mpg mostly commuting to work, which is not highway!

I've discovered, unfortunately, that my tires need to be replaced. Ticks me off. The edges look great, which is honestly all I really looked at when I test drove it, but the centers are flat wore out - driven overinflated, I reckon. They're Dunlops with only 16k on them.

I'm also gonna have to rework the brakes. She pulls to the left firmly when I brake, sometimes worse than others, sometimes hardly at all.

Everything else on the car works like it's meant to. The tranny shifts just as I've read it should, the engine runs like a top, the AC is cold and the temp is constant, the antenna works, the sunroof and all the windows are smooth and quick ... it's awesome.

I'm getting new tires this week (205/65 on my 15" rims to help correct the speedo that's @5 mph slow - but my odometer seems to be spot on) and will then look into the brakes. Y'all have any recommendations on brake parts - where to buy, etc.?
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1983 300SD, Silver/Blue, 230+K (rebuilt at 196K)
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  #17  
Old 03-14-2006, 08:20 AM
R Leo's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew

I'm also gonna have to rework the brakes. She pulls to the left firmly when I brake, sometimes worse than others, sometimes hardly at all.
That may be a bad track rod bushing (AKA guide rod bushing) on the left side. They wear out and permit the lower control arm to move rearwards when braking. Depending on which side (usually both wear about the same) is shot, the steering could pull that direction during braking.

Here's some free searches:
Suspension clunk
Frontend parts
More parts
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2006, 08:46 AM
Lew Lew is offline
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I hadn't thought that it might be suspension related. I'll check out the links provided, thanks!
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  #19  
Old 03-14-2006, 05:49 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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if that is the problem

you prob would be hearing some clunking about when the brakes are applied. the sticking caliper is still the prime candidate in my book. ( if you arent hearing clunking).

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #20  
Old 03-16-2006, 07:39 AM
Lew Lew is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Temple, Georgia
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Definately brakes

I got new shoes on the beast yesterday and, while the wheels were off, was able to give a cursory inspection to the brakes. The rears are fine. Front, however, needs a brake job. Very little pad left.

My second tank of diesel netted 28.4 mpg. I love it!

The new tires are awesome smooth and quiet. I put 205/65 on my 15" rims, which did correct my speedometer. According to my GPS, I'm no more than 2mph off at any given time.

I also got a bottle of liquid shoe polish in Navy Marine that re-dyed my blue leather seats perfectly. I coated the seats, heavily where it needed it, let it dry, then wiped/buffed them down with a conditioner, which smoothed it all out and removed any excess. I am thorougly impressed with the results. I wish I'd taken before and after pix. I figure for $3 per bottle, I can do this on a somewhat regular basis and keep those seats looking good.
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  #21  
Old 03-16-2006, 02:54 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bay area, California
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Welcome!

The SD is a great car.

Enjoy the ride!

Tom
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2006, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
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Welcome!

Cool swap... what trans did you use behind the 1.6L? The Zuk divorced transfer case is ideal for a swap.

Check out the SD-33T I swapped into my Jeep:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/676309

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  #23  
Old 03-17-2006, 07:37 AM
Lew Lew is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Temple, Georgia
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The Samurai tranny remained in the truck. I needed lower gearing, though, and so swapped the t-case for an older pre-Samurai t-case (same case, different gears) that simply woke everything up. It is, indeed, an awesome little truck. I hated to sell it, but love my Mercedes. That Jeep of yours is awesome. I remember back when I was a kid I saw a guy with a cummins-powered CJ and thought to myself that it was the ultimate vehicle, and so later built up my Zuk the way I wanted it to be. Then I got older (notice - "got older," not "grew up"), and this old Mercedes is suiting me just fine.
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Last edited by Lew; 03-17-2006 at 07:43 AM.
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  #24  
Old 03-27-2006, 07:40 AM
Lew Lew is offline
Lew
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Temple, Georgia
Posts: 52
Did some maintenance ...

I pulled my ALDA bolt yesterday and found it 80% clogged. I cleaned it up real good with brake cleaner and cleaned out the line and banjo fitting. Noticeable improvement!

I also changed the oil, oil filter and air filter. The records I have show 20w50 being put in this engine (OM617), which I thought was too heavy. I put Delo 400 15w40 in it and immediately noticed a dramatic difference in pickup and power. Cold starts are noticeably smoother (before, it'd "hitch" ever so slightly ... now it just purrs). I must admit that this was the least traumatic oil change I've ever done in my life! I truly admire and appreciate the oil filter design - open the lid, pull out the old filter, put a new one in, then replace the lid. Ingenious! And the same socket that gets that lid loose also fits the drain plug! AMEN!

Next up is some brake work. I'm pulling to the left when braking heavy and the right front pads are worn considerably more than the driver's side, which to me indicates the need for caliper work. Any recommendations; replace or rebuild?

After that, the tranny will be up for service. Has anyone here ever run Auto-RX in the tranny to clean it before servicing?
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1983 300SD, Silver/Blue, 230+K (rebuilt at 196K)
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  #25  
Old 03-27-2006, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew
Next up is some brake work. I'm pulling to the left when braking heavy and the right front pads are worn considerably more than the driver's side, which to me indicates the need for caliper work. Any recommendations; replace or rebuild?

I've done it both ways. If you rebuild them yourself, you'll need a bit of patience in getting everything thoroughly clean. Additionally, you'll have to rig up something to get the pistons out. Once one piston leaves the cylinder, you can't get the second one out without sealing that open hole.

Additionally, you've got binding in one.......or both......pistons on the left side. This may required you to use the hydraulic system on the vehicle to remove the piston(s). Compressed air won't be strong enough in some cases.

Then, you have the consideration, after doing all the work to remove the pistons, the cylinder or, more importantly, the piston, won't clean up perfectly. The piston must be perfectly clean bright chrome without any corrosion whatsoever or you'll get a leak. The cylinder needs to be very clean without any raised metal, but it does not have to be perfect.

Sometimes you have to spend an hour to polish the rust on the caliper that is outside of the piston seal and underneath the dust boot. You only have .001" clearance per side. Any slight bit of corrosion will raise the metal and prevent installation of the piston.

So.......what's your time worth.
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  #26  
Old 03-27-2006, 01:29 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew
Has anyone here ever run Auto-RX in the tranny to clean it before servicing?
Diesel Oil Thread!!!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/110168-oil-related-topics-%3D-oil-thread-post1098555.html#post1098555
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  #27  
Old 03-27-2006, 10:04 PM
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Or insted of going through what Brian said you could just run down to Autozone and get a set of rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty. Throw in some new brake hoses and DOT4 fluid and in a couple of hours your done.
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