W-126 Dash Removal - Evaporator Replacement
 

A record of my trial and error approach to removing the dashboard of my '87 300SDL, Sybill, so that I can replace a leaking a/c evaporator.

Observations:
The 126, while a lot more complicated than a 123, is still a Mercedes-Benz™ so, if you've ever done a 123 dash you'll find yourself on familiar ground. A lot of the engineering and manufacturing techniques are similar.

Sybil the SDL has had a hard life. A lot of her plastic is in bad shape so I take extra pains when removing trim and other items to avoid breaking things that I've never had to worry about on my 123s.

Also, some of the dissasembly pictures will be added later (as I reassemble the dash). FWIW, I already had removed the kick valences and some other trim while replacing the a/c expansion valve. It wasn't until later I discovered that the evaporator was leaking, necessitating the dash removal.

Procedures 83-110, 83-536 and 83-538 from the W126 FSM are helpful too.

Before going any further...

If you have a telescoping steering column, fully extend the column, then...


Now, remove the kick valences on driver and passenger sides.

Pictures to be added....

Remove metal crash tube/ducting from above the driver's footwell. Remove stiffening brace from drivers footwell and disconnect wiring in the footwell.

Disconnect bowden cable from footwell flap.

Remove support bolts and allow steering column to drop down.

Remove speaker grilles and the cap head screws from speaker boxes on the right and left sides.

Remove the instrument cluster.

Remove the cap head screw in the center of the dash, between the defrost vents. This screw is underneath a plastic trim and the trim may be quite fragile. To remove it, reach in the opening for the instrument cluster and to the left of the support screw, you should be able to feel the tab on the plastic trim where it sticks down through the dash. Push it up and inwards to release. Be careful! There are plenty of sharp edges to be cut by in that dash...

Remove 10mm nut from lower attachment/adjustment points on the left and right sides of the dash.

Remove radio and pull CCU panel. The CCU will be in the way so, you'll need to remove it completely. Next, remove the two screws directly above the CCU panel that attach the dash to the console. And, with the long phillips screwdriver, go in through the center venetian blind vent and unscrew the actuator arm from the center vent flap.

Use a plastic wedge to pry off the light switch knob and a 24mm socket to remove the bezel retainer nut. Then, remove the light switch bezel. While you are over here, disconnect the parking brake release chain.

Now, reach in through the instrument cluster void and remove the electrical connector from the light switch. To remove the switch from the dash, twist the switch housing CCW to release the retaining tabs and pull it forward (toward the front of the car).

Remove a-pillar covers.

At the a-pillar, and use a plastic wedge to gently push the door welting outwards from the pillar. This exposes the outer edge of the a-pillar cover. Start about 2" above the bottom of the cover and use the wedge to pry the cover loose from the a-pillar. The cover is held in place by two metal clips: one is about 2" from the bottom, the other about 2" from the top.

To remove the cover, move the bottom of the cover towards the center of the car and downwards.

Make sure to put the welting back in place before you close the door.

nice documentation. What software do you use to add the text and arrows? That makes a big difference, where stuff like removing the A-pillar comes in. Knowing how it's fastened underneath is the best way of not breaking plastic. Also, cute socks!:eek:

Thanks!

The lettering and arrows are all done in Adobe Photoshop. FWIW, the day job description claims that I'm a technical illustrator. So, doing this is sort of second nature.

That's nothing, you should see my shoes....

Since you've got the dash out, this would be a good time to remove the center vents door so you'll never have to worry about the center vents being out of order because of a bad actuator. Engatwork posted this first. It says W123, but it will work for the W126.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/138631-best-free-improvement-300d-w123.html

I tried doing that with Adobe photoshop but I couldn't. Maybe because I only have the starter edition. You have to pay for the full edition.
I use paint shop pro it works well.

Peter if you want it PM me.

Danny

The center vent door on my 126 is manually operated by the sliding handle in the center venetian blind vent.

Remove the computer thingy from behind the center of the noise shield in the engine compartment. Remove the clip gizmo that holds the computer in place.

OK, here's something weird, mine had bolts and non-captive nuts holding the clip...those damn loose nuts are under the cowl screen and you'd have to pull the wipers and Gawd knows what else to get to them. I just let the stupid things fall and I'll use some sheet metal screws to hold that clip when I reassemble...this is a $650 car, not the space shuttle.

Below the computer, remove the three heater hoses from the heater core.