starting out

[jbecker1980]

Hey everyone, I just was given an 1981 300TD wagon. It has not been started in several months. So far I've done basic stuff to try to start it, but to no avail. I've charged the battery, changed the fuel filter, bled the fuel line, changed the air filter and reconnected (what I think is) a vaccuum advance hose. Still it will not start, although it sounds close. It chuggs and a bit of white smoke comes out the tailpipe, but does not start. Might it just be bad fuel? Something with the fuel injectors? Glow plugs? The cold? (it's been around 50 degrees).

Thanks for the wisdom

JB

[SD Blue]

Is this your first diesel? The reason I ask, is to help in sorting things out.

We're working with strictly fuel and compression here and from your explanation of puffs of grey smoke, the "compression/heat" side of things is suspect.

Glow plugs- What kind of indication do you get from the glow plug light? Do you let the glow plugs go through their complete cycle? To do this, turn the key to position#2 and wait till you hear the click of the glow plug relay before swithing to the #3 start position. (You will also notice the warning lights brighten at the same time.) What do you get trying this method?

Report back and if it still won't start we can sort things from there.

[Pete Burton]

Welcome to the board John. There's no vacuum advance, but there is a vacuum shutoff (that cuts fuel supply via a valve on the ignition switch) If you have vacuum applied to the shutoff it will not start. Where is the car now? If it's nearby I can look at it and tell you what it needs.

[barry123400]

Yes it can be marginal fuel but unlikely. A couple of thoughs come to mind. If it has a block heater hook it up for several hours then try. Second is to give a little starting assist by spraying a little starting aid into the intake with the air cleaner cover off. But you have to be very careful. Read some posts under either or starting fluids first. If the block heater is not possible just leave the car till ambient temperatures pick up a little. To fill in the time again read some posts on the glow plug circuit as car may have stopped being used because it had one or two bad glow plugs. Most indirect injection engines really like all the glow plugs to be functioning or they will torment you. Welcome to the site and if are short on space with too many people giving you free diesel mercedes cars I am willing to help you out. No sacrifice is too great for a new member.

[jbecker1980]

Thanks for the info. I have been sure to let it glow before I try to start it. The glow plug light stays on for about 10 seconds or so. How long should the block heater be connected for to be effective.

The hose I reconnected was just below the air cleaner. I'm used to gas engines, and don't really know too much about them, either, so "vaccuum advance" is mostly just a guess.

I'll try the block heater today.

Mr. Burton, I spoke to you on the phone the other day. I live in Madison.

thanks

JB

[Mismost]

When I bought my 300TD, it had not been started in "several months"....like 12 months! The fuel was bad and playing host to a lot of alge'funus/bugs...it was crappy fuel....which clogged the tank strainer and both filters.

It is amazing how well these cars can run when they get good fuel. Drain it, clean the srtainer, put in new fuel filters, re-prime the system ....even if it doesn't help, you can quit worring about fuel & filter quality.

[Pete Burton]

Originally Posted by jbecker1980

Thanks for the info. I have been sure to let it glow before I try to start it. The glow plug light stays on for about 10 seconds or so. How long should the block heater be connected for to be effective.

The hose I reconnected was just below the air cleaner. I'm used to gas engines, and don't really know too much about them, either, so "vaccuum advance" is mostly just a guess.

I'll try the block heater today.

Mr. Burton, I spoke to you on the phone the other day. I live in Madison.

thanks

JB

I remember, didn't know if you'd moved it from Deep River. A larger hose (size of your finger) is the wastegate supply. Smaller hose may be to EGR system. If you need help checking the glowplugs with a meter, let me know.

[Hatterasguy]

These cars can be a pita to get started after they have sat for awhile. It took a lot of cranking and battery charging to get my SD to light off after have sat for 8 months.

Crack the injector lines to make sure you are at least getting fuel to the injectors. If it has a block heater, plug it in that will help a lot. Just make sure the block heater is working, lots of times the cords are chaffed through.


If all else fails remove the air intake and have someone spray some starting fluid over the intake as you crank. Just don't make a habit of doing this.

[Pete Burton]

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

If all else fails remove the air intake and have someone spray some starting fluid over the intake as you crank. Just don't make a habit of doing this.

I'd advise against using the starting fluid - concentrate on blockheater and glow plugs.

[jbecker1980]

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

I remember, didn't know if you'd moved it from Deep River. A larger hose (size of your finger) is the wastegate supply. Smaller hose may be to EGR system. If you need help checking the glowplugs with a meter, let me know.

I did try to check the glowplugs, as advised, but I'm not sure if i did it right. I followed the steps in the Haynes manual, and got a reading of "1" for each plug. The consistency made me think either there is nothing wrong, or i did not perform the check properly.

[Hatterasguy]

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

I'd advise against using the starting fluid - concentrate on blockheater and glow plugs.

I agree, its a last resort option.

I talked to Pete, don't use starting fluid, unless he talks you through the process.

[Pete Burton]

The "1" usually means no connection. Sometimes you need to move the test leads around to get a good connection.

[bgkast]

Try leaving the key in the glow position even after the light has turned off. Like SD Blue said you will hear a click and the dash lights will brighten after the plugs complete their 30 second cycle.

Correct me if I am wrong but I thought if the glow plug light operates the plugs are alright?

[barry123400]

Ther corelation between the light on the dash and glow plugs may not be there. You have to monitor from one of the glow plugs to ground with a meter or test light with someone telling you from inside the car what the dash indicator is doing. A meter should indicate about 11 volts or close. If that voltage is not there at all then you check the strap 80AMP fuse strip out.. It is a strap fuse that can corrode or otherwise go bad at any time so check it out first if voltage is missing on glow plugs. If the plugs are not staying on as long as the dash lite then may be a relay problem. On bosh equipment the presence of the dash indication of cycle does not absolutly mean the plugs are powered up. Or on as long either but that is more unusual. A little while back I think you were describing about I ohm per plug from the harness all about equal and that sounds about right. On the fuel issue I did forget the algea issue as a possibility but first establish that glow plugs are really coresponding to dash indicator as well as following someones given good suggestion to make sure you are getting fuel by loosening injector lines to verify output or not. Diesels tend to confuse but generally if heat, fuel and air are provided in proper sequence with reasonable compression they run. Sad they cannot be a little quiet about it but on the otherhand if it starts you will not miss the event. Car sitting awhile plus overfuelling may release a few particals of smoke initially. Thats why mercedes made their diesels smoke so bad after sitting for awhile. Even totally deaf people cannot miss the startup.