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  #1  
Old 03-26-2006, 09:22 PM
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Location: wausau, wi
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W123 power window is stuck

I took my console switches out of my 81 300TD because the drivers window would work intermittently. The wiring plastic case that plugs into the switch is missing so it was just individual wires mounted to the drivers window switch, which came off while taking the console apart so I matched the wire color pattern with the other switches to get the window to work. I got it to go down and up some and then it just died with a about an inch to go until closed. The drivers rear window will work when plugged into the drivers front window switch, so the switch works fine. I took the door panel off and wired a car battery directly to the motor, but it didn't move or make noise. I am assuming even if I blew a relay or fuse that would have bypassed and made the motor move. I tried to pull up and push down on the glass, but I can't get that to move either. Therefore, I am assuming the motor is shot. I was wondering if I could just take the motor out, with out the whole regulator assembly, and swap it with a rear window motor? I think the motor will come out with just 2 bolts, but I am not sure if I can get the gearing to match back with the regulator. If not, how can I just get the window to shut?

If you read all of that, I would love to hear your advice and suggestions.

Thanks,
Glenn
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2006, 09:28 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn1179
I got it to go down and up some and then it just died with a about an inch to go until closed.


I took the door panel off and wired a car battery directly to the motor, but it didn't move or make noise.
There is a problem with the diagnosis.

The window moved and then it stopped with one inch to go. This tells me the motor is properly functioning........unless it gave up the ghost right at that moment........an unlikely scenario.

Then, you hook up 12V to the motor and it does not function at all..........

I think the 12V test has some flaw in the procedure. Did you connect 12V to one motor lead and ground to the second lead? Did you then reverse the leads to see if the window would move in the opposite direction? Did you feel the motor and see if it was operating during this test? The motor may run but the regulator may be shot. If I had to bet, this is the more likely scenario.

In any case, the regulator and motor come out of the door as a unit. Then you can see what you have and bench test the motor properly........and determine if the motor......or the regulator.....is the final culprit.
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:51 PM
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I did have the battery grounded switched the leads with no movement either way. So I have to get the old block of wood to hold up the window while I take the motor and regulator out. Can I just pull on of my other window motors and put it in the drivers door?

My Haynes manual says I need to have the window down to get the regulator out. Anyone have any tips on how to do this with the window stuck up.

Thanks,
Glenn
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  #4  
Old 03-26-2006, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn1179
I did have the battery grounded switched the leads with no movement either way. So I have to get the old block of wood to hold up the window while I take the motor and regulator out. Can I just pull on of my other window motors and put it in the drivers door?

My Haynes manual says I need to have the window down to get the regulator out. Anyone have any tips on how to do this with the window stuck up.

Thanks,
Glenn
You certainly can use any of the window motors for the driver's window.

I can't seem to remember why the window needs to be down to remove the regulator........
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Old 03-26-2006, 10:04 PM
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Is there a simple way to get the window up? Or should I just duck tape the opening until I can work on it again?

Thanks,
Glenn
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn1179
Is there a simple way to get the window up? Or should I just duck tape the opening until I can work on it again?

Thanks,
Glenn
No, no duct tape.

Once the regulator is out, just cut a couple of 1" x 2" pieces of wood to support the glass. Lift the window......set them in place.......they aren't going anywhere.

I did this for a couple of weeks after I screwed up the plastic slider.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2006, 12:47 PM
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stuck window

i picked up my 1977 300d for $400 because the windows where stuck. sounds like the same proble. my fix was replaceing the channel felt. the felt had shrunk and was hugging the window. an easy fix. i replaced the with some from the junkyard from a newer model.
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:20 AM
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Just wanted to follow up on this. I retested the motor by jumping it to the battery and got it to work. I must have messed something up the first time. The intermittent problems were caused by a dirty switch. Cleaned the switch, lubed the window track, reassembled and everything is working well.

I will start a new thread after searching for info. for my new electrical problem.

Thanks,
Glenn
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn1179
Just wanted to follow up on this. I retested the motor by jumping it to the battery and got it to work. I must have messed something up the first time. The intermittent problems were caused by a dirty switch. Cleaned the switch, lubed the window track, reassembled and everything is working well.
Excellent. I was certain that the motor was not the culprit here. 99% of the time, the motors are fine.
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2006, 04:52 PM
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So how were you able to get the window to budge in the first place. I just dont want to break anything. I have been reading along with this and others and it seems that 9 times out of ten according to blogs that the motors usually work just problems like you are experiencing.
I just got my *82 300D Turbo and the passsenger side front and driver rear doesnt work. But, I just got the fuses today and replacing all of them.
Just to make sure I am reading it right, would the window fuses be towards the engine or away?
Thank you
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  #11  
Old 03-28-2006, 04:56 PM
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You did a great job! This is just another reason to always have a old MB in the stable. What other car can you just clean this and that and it works?

None that I have seen yet.
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2006, 04:57 PM
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I got the window to budge when I connected jumper wires from the battery directly to the power window motor leads. I am not sure what you mean by the fuse question. The fuses for the windows are in the fuse box with the rest of the cars fuses. If it was a blown fuse, the opposite side rear window wouldn't work either.

Glenn
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