I have been shopping for about 4 years now and finally got one. It's a '82 300 5 cyl. Turbo Diesel. 241,000 orginal miles. The owners kept accurate records of the car in the provided and additional MB Maint. Booklets. Pretty Cool. It even has the original first aid kit in the pack (empty though).
After looking and looking and getting burned on a ebay car last year I ran into one at the right time with the right price. I am an OK mechanic but this is my first diesel, I just cant wait to dive in and soak up the info.
I am sure most if not all of these questions have been asked but I am exstatic and hope you all can help.

1. Windows. The passenger front and rear (behind the driver) power windows do not work. I want to get them back upto shape. What is the best way to do so? (parts...etc.)

2. A/C. I looked under the the hood and down to the right appears to be the AC Compressor. Now living in GA this is a must have. The dash does not have (what I find normally in older cars) a snowflake or AC button BUT it does have the rotating wheel (thermostat?) that goes from red (locked position) down to the coldest (w/also a locked position). I am definately new to this feature and hope that it truely is an AC unit.

3.The RPM gauge and Clock on the instrument panel are both not working. Is this just a fuse/relay?

4. The Instrument panel, and the (panel) area that houses the power window switches and dash panel LIGHTS are VERY VERY low. Again is this a fuse/relay, bulb...?

5. I love and get excited about all of the little aesthetics to these cars. Are or were there special features that are hard to find or that most people have forgotten about like...
What was originally provided in the first aid kit?
What kind of radio was originally in the car?
Matching luggage for this late of a model?
Were the inset of the MB logo on the magnesium wheel black (can these be replaced)?
Just the little nuances like those.

Thanks so much for all your help ahead of time. It is greatly appreciated. Sorry for asking redundant questions, but I'm an excited newbie.
Thanks again
Bryan

1. Windows - Do the windows do anything? The switches might be bad. Or the motors could be shot. I would first try changing out the switches with some that you know work and see if that does anything.

2. AC - When you rotate the termostat wheel toothe coldest and click it into the lowest setting your AC should come on if everything is working.

3. RPM and Clock - I believe they are both powered seperately so they both are not working for indepentant reasons. The tach is a subject that has be talked about here tons of times. Try searching for ways to fix it. I think the clock is a simple fix there is something on the back that you can replace and the clock should work again. I don't know the specific part. Someone else might chime in here.

4. Instrument panel - There are two knobs sticking out of the instrument cluster on the bottom. The one on right sets the clock time and the one of the left if you push it will reset the trip, and if you turn it is should dim or brighten the dash lights, assuming is works. Try turning it and see what happens.

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The tach amp is usually the culprit. It is located on the drivers front wheel well under the hood. It is a little black canister, looks kind of like a little trashcan. I unscrewed the top off the canister, and took the screws out the bottom half so I could take the top off and into the shop. I took the part out of the top that has the pins in it. I used a small screw diver and gently pried it out. Then I put a rubber washer in the top and put the pin part back in. Then I took apart the part of the amp that is screwed to the car, and pulled all the female clips out and sqeezed them with a pair of needle nose, not too much, just enough to make them oval instead of round so they would hold the pins tight. Put it all back together. Then this weekend I went on a 500 mile trip, and the tach worked great, it never died, or jumped all over the place.

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Thanks so much. How long have you own yours. Also, I notice you are using cooking grease. Biodiesel or Straight cooking oil?

Check the window fuses. They are wired so when the fuse blows one front and one rear on the opposite side will not work. Just like you described.

Glenn

First step... replace all fuses... take that piece out of the mix... after you replace them and try to run everything, check them again and see if anything knocked out a fuse. Good place to start.

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Rick
Safety Harbor, FL
1987 300SDL 280K

I have had my wagon for just over a year, and have learned a ton from about it thanks to the folks here.
I bought it specifically to start using biodiesel. I use biodiesel, and haven't ventured into the waste veggie oil (WVO) yet. Maybe some day.

Any photos of your newly accuired (soon to be) addiction?

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I have also just gotten my first MB 300D. Been homebrewing biodiesel for over a year now and have been looking for a vehicle for using b100. I don't know much about these cars just found this site today. Is there anything other than the normal percautions before I use the b100 in this car?

Don't know what you consider normal...
on a new to me Diesel I would change out all three filters ....and I might use a biocide in the tank first... but would have the filters on hand in case that causes them to stop up... be sure to have the clear 90 degree inline filter so you can monitor for little black specs which indicate algae in the tank. Of course I would change out the oil filters, the differential fluid, the trans fluid and filters... the change out recommended by MB on the trans fluid and filter are much shorter than most cars... and set the valves and check the chain elongation and set the timing on the injection pump. Then I would start looking at cosmetic issues.... except that all the water drains need to be found and cleaned out.. but that really is structural .... that list ought to keep you busy a while... instructions for all those things are in the archives...

and another thing.. flush and put in new antifreeze... MB 's are bad about rusting through the heater core and things like that if you don't... great instructions in the archives....

Thanks for the info about the trans service

I'll check my First Aid kit. I'm pretty sure it's been untouched.

Rob

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Rob

2001 Honda S2000
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #330

Sold: '84 M-B 300D, '04 Mazda3, '91 Mitusbishi Galant VR-4 #1061, '88 Sterling 825SL, '87 Sterling 825S

yeah, I actually needed my first aid kit the other day. Disinfecting wipes were completly dried out, gauzed looked sketchy and I was sure big bandages in 'sterile' packaging were probably no longer good either. So if you plan on using your first aid kit as more than a novelty probably good to renew the contents every couple of years. I learned the hard way.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

I actually put a modern first aid kit in my car (from a camping store), you never know. I'm sure you can buy the correct kit from the dealer, and I've seen them on eBay quite a few times. My wife's 240D has the original kit, but I doubt it's really useable.

If, after the replacing the fuses, there is still no window action, you can check the switches themselves. They pull up and out of the wood console. If you examine them, you will notice that the rocker part can be pryed out - do this carefully, slowly, and upright. There are two springs in there, plus two little steel balls, and two metal v shapish flat and narrow strips. What happens, is that coffee/coke/whoknows, gets spilled and gums up the contacts. Some nice contact cleaner should clean it up. (sometimes I use a wooden toothpick to loosen up crud).

Turning on A/C. The A/C is normally turned on by pushing the middle button (the second from the left is bi-level). Depressing the left most button is the defrost - this turns on the compressor to provide dry air, however most don't notice, because it also throws out profuse amounts of hot air. (dry hot air being the most effective defroster).

Have fun!

-Larry

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

As mentioned previously, BEFORE you address any of the issues you have mentioned that need repair, do yourself a favor and do some regular maintenance that will ensure that there wont be any unexpected problems along the way.

Flush fuel system, replace filters and tank screen., check hoses & replace any accordingly.

Flush all engine fluids, replace. OIL/Coolant/Brake Fluid/Transmission/power steering/etc. Check hoses/replace accordingly

Adjust Valves, check drive belts, etc... replace accordingly.

Giver her a good "german tune-up"- run her hard.... pedal to the floor, and do some longer distance highway runs to burn out any remaining carbon deposits, etc.... and to ensure that the car seems to be running well.

I would also inspect the undercarriage, note any possible leaks, have the undercarriage pressure washed- so its nice and clean, and after the next 3K miles (at your next oil change interval) raise the car and check for any leakage that has developed. That will give you an idea of problem areas if you find yourself having to top off fluids from time to time.

Once you have done these thing, THEN I would address your rpm gauge,
A/C + Climate control unit issues, instrument cluster lighting(if it needs repair, rather than adjustment with the knob) etc...

Commonly, if the A/C compressor and/or the climate control unit hasnt been replaced than you will have problems getting your climate control system to function properly.

Post some pictures of your new ride! and welcome to the forums!!!!

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Nate

1995 E420
1992 BMW 525i
1984 300D Turbo sold
1993 Volvo 244 sold
1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P!


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