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  #16  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:33 AM
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Disconnecting and removing the downpipe isn't a big deal, I did it on the SDL. How much extra clearance will that provide?

I'd much rather keep that $160 in my pocket for the labor for someone else even if it takes me four hours to do the starter...
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  #17  
Old 03-28-2006, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Disconnecting and removing the downpipe isn't a big deal, I did it on the SDL. How much extra clearance will that provide?

I'd much rather keep that $160 in my pocket for the labor for someone else even if it takes me four hours to do the starter...
The removal of the downpipe provides a lot of additional room, just where you need it.

I'm sure you can do the job in four hours...............just be sure that you have the socket bit for the 12mm screws and a 1/2" drive ratchet with a couple of long extensions (1/2") and a universal (1/2"). Be prepared to add a pipe to the ratchet (breaker bar preferred), because you won't be able to apply sufficient torque with just your arm strength (while lying in a precarious position).
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The removal of the downpipe provides a lot of additional room, just where you need it.

I'm sure you can do the job in four hours...............just be sure that you have the socket bit for the 12mm screws and a 1/2" drive ratchet with a couple of long extensions (1/2") and a universal (1/2"). Be prepared to add a pipe to the ratchet (breaker bar preferred), because you won't be able to apply sufficient torque with just your arm strength (while lying in a precarious position).


Is there enough room in there to stick an impact gun?

I have 3/8" and 1/2" stuff.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Is there enough room in there to stick an impact gun?

I have 3/8" and 1/2" stuff.
Can you safely use the gun on socket head cap screws? The danger of stripping them would be significant.

The gun would remain below and behind the fastener by a good bit (18"-24"). So, with a proper universal that could handle the impact, you could use it, but the aforementioned concern remains.
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:21 AM
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Are those screws different than normal bolts? Are we talking about stripping the head of the bolt such as rounding it off?

The only u-joint I have currently for impacts is a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. I don't have a problem buying more.
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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #21  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Are those screws different than normal bolts? Are we talking about stripping the head of the bolt such as rounding it off?

The only u-joint I have currently for impacts is a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. I don't have a problem buying more.
They are socket head cap screws. The bit is smaller than the size of the bolt (10mm??). We are talking about stripping the internal hex in the screw.
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  #22  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:31 AM
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AHHHHH. I see now.

My mind is a bit slow, has been up for a few days now.

As long as I can get the allen all the way seated in the screw, I do not see it being stripped.
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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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  #23  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X

As long as I can get the allen all the way seated in the screw, I do not see it being stripped.
Don't be overconfident:

Tackling a starter, need suggestions (and sympathy)
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  #24  
Old 03-28-2006, 09:55 AM
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It is indeed 10mm. I'd use the shortest extension possible, preferably none. Seating the bit all the way in the head is key, along with providing as much torsion without much bending and you won't strip it.
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  #25  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
It is indeed 10mm. I'd use the shortest extension possible, preferably none. Seating the bit all the way in the head is key, along with providing as much torsion without much bending and you won't strip it.
Don't see how to get anywhere near the upper cap screw without a long extension???

Using 1/2" extensions pretty much rules out twist in the extension.

Using the universal pretty much eliminates bending.........if you don't go too crazy on the angle.
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  #26  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton


Not good...
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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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  #27  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
a valve adjustment should cost you about $2-4, depending on where you buy the feeler gages. As for the starter, you're lucky that spring is here and nice and warm outside. I still remember changing the starter on my $50 Chrysler 300 at college in Maine in January. That was really cold.
its been 20 at night, 35 in the day here until just yesterday. anyway - the valve adjustment...i've heard its kind of a tough job to do, friend in seattle was telling me about having to heat-bend wrenches to get at the right angle. how much would it cost to have a shop do it? i've done little more than fluid changes, fuel line and filter work, and some electrical fixes (and i guess some work with the SVO conversion)...so i am still quite inexperienced with autos, esp diesels. is the valve adjust what we think i should do? ......

OR

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Giant
If the engine is not spining fast enough then the engine wont start. This could be the battery and or the starter. Try the cheaper thing first, the battery. Also clean your ground connections. Cold weather kills the batteries in a heart beat.
charge the battery? change the battery? check the ground connections and other wiring for corrosion?

i'm picking up the car in the afternoon today, paying these guys for little more than scratching their heads and charging the battery . it is starting... but after about 3 or 4 solid seconds of coaxing -- worse than usual. course of action here?

thanks for all the awesome help - i'm new to this community and i already love it!
take care,
billy
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  #28  
Old 03-28-2006, 10:38 AM
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on those

cap screws the key to getting a good bite is be sure that they are clean inside.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #29  
Old 03-28-2006, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billster84
its been 20 at night, 35 in the day here until just yesterday. anyway - the valve adjustment...i've heard its kind of a tough job to do, friend in seattle was telling me about having to heat-bend wrenches to get at the right angle. how much would it cost to have a shop do it? i've done little more than fluid changes, fuel line and filter work, and some electrical fixes (and i guess some work with the SVO conversion)...so i am still quite inexperienced with autos, esp diesels. is the valve adjust what we think i should do? ......
That what I think, along with verifying that your glowplugs are operating properly. Most folks on this forum do their own work at least partially because they like it. Some folks can pay to have others do whatever an old car needs, which usually is a lot. No offense meant, but sounds like you are not either of above. Their is lots of great info here if you use the search and then roll up your sleeves. If you don't want to that's OK too, but long term you need to decide which type of lubrication works best for you - elbow grease or palm grease.
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  #30  
Old 03-28-2006, 11:18 AM
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Billy,
The valve adjustment is not tough at all. Bent wrenches are nicer and make the job quicker but are not an absolute necessity. I have done 4 adjustments on mine and still don't have a set of bent wrenches. Just be sure you have high quality 14mm wrenches that won't round things off. I believe there is a great write-up with photos in the DIY section.

I wouldn't doubt that your starting problem is as Brian suggested. Charge and test the battery and check your ground cables, especially the engine-chassis. This is something that bit me in the past. I replaced the starter on mine (twice ) before finding out that the bracket the ground strap attached to was loose. The symptoms were the same: sluggish starter at first then intermittent. I would definitely do this before investing money in new parts.
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