No, I lubricated them with PAG oil per the recommendation of the compressor supplier. I'm out of proper size o-rings now; I'll get a metric ring kit and some Nylog from ACKits.

I suspect that I somehow nicked or pinched the o-ring on the suction side of the TXV. It was a pure-dee b*tch to get that line onto the TXV without cross threading the nut....

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

There are at least two colors of Nylog... be sure to get the one which matches the oil you are using....

Your reason on the shaft leak is not correct...there is a designed leak in that area because that is the only way they provided to lube that front seal on the compressor... thus the reason they suggest you start your AC on your car once per month even in the winter... is to keep that seal lubed...

"It's definitely sucking." — Helga

I shot gas into the system tonight and went after every joint, hose, connection and component with my trusty leak detector and guess what? The damned rebuilt compressor is leaking at the rpm sensor.

Bah!

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Hey Randy,
Is a leak detector like you used a high dollar item, and what type do you recommend?
I'm in the same boat....

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Hi Jimmy!
The term high-dollar is relative ...this detector cost me $175 and it is called a 'heated diode leak detector'. It is compatible with both CFC and HCFC refrigerants. I cannot remember brand name but, I'll look it up. FWIW, TIF™ and Robinair both make good tools; you wouldn't go wrong with one of theirs either. Mine doesn't have a 'balance' control like this Robinair and I can see how that could be very useful in a contaminated area.

IMHO, my sniffer paid for itsself last night when it found the leak at the compressor.

In the dark ages, I used the old halide detectors that ran off a propane flame. Personally, they always scared the crap outta me, firing up one of those dinosaurs in a customer's kitchen. An electronic detector is a vast improvement.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I've pinched o-rings on those TX valves too. They tend to drop in before you can thread the pipe in.
Nylog helps a lot.

I always wondered about those Halide torches when using them. Burning Freon® creates poisonous gas.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Absolutely! The connections are a PITA to get made-up. On the replacement evap, the TXV was already installed so only the lower connex needed to be made..after 45 minutes of unsuccessful struggle, I took a break for supper, came back and screwed it together on the first try. Go figure...

No kidding. When I used to work on domestic refirgeration, I generally took compressor change-outs to the shop. I once cut-out a compressor that still had some pressure left on the high side. When the gas hit that torch flame it smelled like swimming pool chlorine and the next morning, there was a light haze of rust on all the exposed steel surfaces in the shop.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.