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  #16  
Old 03-31-2006, 09:37 AM
R Leo's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym
No, I lubricated them with PAG oil per the recommendation of the compressor supplier. I'm out of proper size o-rings now; I'll get a metric ring kit and some Nylog from ACKits.

I suspect that I somehow nicked or pinched the o-ring on the suction side of the TXV. It was a pure-dee b*tch to get that line onto the TXV without cross threading the nut....
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2006, 10:14 AM
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There are at least two colors of Nylog... be sure to get the one which matches the oil you are using....

Your reason on the shaft leak is not correct...there is a designed leak in that area because that is the only way they provided to lube that front seal on the compressor... thus the reason they suggest you start your AC on your car once per month even in the winter... is to keep that seal lubed...
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2006, 09:51 PM
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Vacuum Update...

"It's definitely sucking." — Helga

I shot gas into the system tonight and went after every joint, hose, connection and component with my trusty leak detector and guess what? The damned rebuilt compressor is leaking at the rpm sensor.

Bah!
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Last edited by R Leo; 04-03-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2006, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo
"It's definitely sucking." — Helga

I shot gas into the system tonight and went after every joint, hose, connection and component with my trusty leak detector and guess what? The damned rebuilt compressor is leaking at the rpm sensor.

Bah!
Hey Randy,
Is a leak detector like you used a high dollar item, and what type do you recommend?
I'm in the same boat....
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2006, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
Hey Randy,
Is a leak detector like you used a high dollar item, and what type do you recommend?
I'm in the same boat....
Hi Jimmy!
The term high-dollar is relative ...this detector cost me $175 and it is called a 'heated diode leak detector'. It is compatible with both CFC and HCFC refrigerants. I cannot remember brand name but, I'll look it up. FWIW, TIF™ and Robinair both make good tools; you wouldn't go wrong with one of theirs either. Mine doesn't have a 'balance' control like this Robinair and I can see how that could be very useful in a contaminated area.

IMHO, my sniffer paid for itsself last night when it found the leak at the compressor.

In the dark ages, I used the old halide detectors that ran off a propane flame. Personally, they always scared the crap outta me, firing up one of those dinosaurs in a customer's kitchen. An electronic detector is a vast improvement.
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2006, 09:30 AM
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I've pinched o-rings on those TX valves too. They tend to drop in before you can thread the pipe in.
Nylog helps a lot.

I always wondered about those Halide torches when using them. Burning Freon® creates poisonous gas.

Danny
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2006, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym
I've pinched o-rings on those TX valves too. They tend to drop in before you can thread the pipe in.
Nylog helps a lot.
Absolutely! The connections are a PITA to get made-up. On the replacement evap, the TXV was already installed so only the lower connex needed to be made..after 45 minutes of unsuccessful struggle, I took a break for supper, came back and screwed it together on the first try. Go figure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym
I always wondered about those Halide torches when using them. Burning Freon® creates poisonous gas.

Danny
No kidding. When I used to work on domestic refirgeration, I generally took compressor change-outs to the shop. I once cut-out a compressor that still had some pressure left on the high side. When the gas hit that torch flame it smelled like swimming pool chlorine and the next morning, there was a light haze of rust on all the exposed steel surfaces in the shop.
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