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  #1  
Old 04-05-2006, 01:06 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
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Man, I'm stupid

So I changed my oil yesterday; it is actually the first time I have changed oil. I torqued one of the bolts on the filter housing too much and broke it! I was unable to get it to move with pliers and the anti-freezing stuff, whatever that's called, I can't remember now.

I nonetheless thought I got the cap on tight, though, so I ran the car for a little bit to circulate the oil. Well the cap wasn't on tight at all and about 3.5 liters leaked out! It only ran for about 30 seconds so I don't believe any permanent damage was done. The oil pressure shot up to three on start, so there was some lubrication in there, right? I turned it off as soon as I noticed the pressure hovering around zero. The engine was cold when I started it and it sounded fine the entire time it ran.

Hopefully somone will learn something from this (other than me)...and if you have ANY idea as to what I should do about this broken bolt, or some knowledge about the engine and what I may/may not have done to it, feel free to enlighten me.

All in all the day could have been worse; my dog was nearly run over by a steam roller later in the day. That would have truly made it the worst day ever. I can't even imagine what my mental state would be if I had witnessed Roamer flattened by a steam roller...
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1985 300D Turbo, CA model
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2006, 02:24 PM
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I think you are okay. I have run engines before with lost oil pressure.
It seems you did not drive it or put it under load.

Time to clean it up and fix the broken part.
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2006, 03:16 PM
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Should be fine. Your prob is getting the bolt out of the housing.
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2006, 03:27 PM
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It's amazing how long you can run an engine without oil pressure an no short term damage. I would not worry about it and just concentrate on removing that bolt or replace the oil filter housing.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2006, 03:38 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
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Thanks for the replies! They do make me feel a lot better. I can live with the PITA removal of a bolt; serious engine damage is another story.

I'm a little obsessive about things and until it runs again it will be hard to take my mind off it.

I guess I will investigate one of these 'easy out' things I've heard about, although I also hear it isn't always 'easy.'
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2006, 06:48 PM
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Visit the local junkyard and get another housing. I bet you are leaking oil from between the housing and the engine anyway (most seem to), and that would be a great time to replace the gasket.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2006, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMEGAMAN
It's amazing how long you can run an engine without oil pressure an no short term damage. I would not worry about it and just concentrate on removing that bolt or replace the oil filter housing.
Yeah, I had the drain plug come out on me when going down the highway a couple weeks ago. That was pretty fun!
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2006, 11:07 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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i would try

to get the nub out before changing out the oil filter housing. it is a big job.

if you use an easy out, be extremely careful. pull gently smoothly keep it absolutely straight and dont jerk it around.

better yet, try a left hand thread drill and then top out the threads, unless it comes out cleanly.

the easy outs are extremely brittle and easily broken. considering you have broken the stud already i recommend the lh drill. get one that is as close to the size of the solid part of the stud as possible and then take special care in keeping it perfectly straight. take a center punch and make a mark in the center of the stud before trying to start the drill.

good luck. remember, take your time and be meticulous.

tom w
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  #9  
Old 04-06-2006, 12:53 AM
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Ok, the broken bolt. I'm kind of new to MB's so I cannnot visualize the part.
How did the bolt break? By this I mean did it break flush with the head of the bolt? Did it break off flush with the engine block?

If there is a stub sticking out of the block but is inaccessable because the component is in the way, remove the component, assuming it isn't an insurmountable task, so that you can access the stub. You're going to need an oxy/accetalyne torch. If not, you'll have to use Map Gas. Propane will not get it hot enough.

You want to heat around the stub...not the stub itself. get it good and hot and have visegrips adjusted and ready to clamp on and start turning. If you get the cast iron around the stub hot enough, it'll spin out pretty easy. You'll be surprised how easy.

If it's broke off flush with the block....quite another story. This is probably the case because it's the worse case senerio.

Uness you are quite experienced with broken bolt removal, do yourself a favor, take it in and have it done. If you drill the hole off center, you're screwed. If you drill the hole too big for the easy out...you're screwed. If you break the drill bit in the block....you're really screwed. If you break the easyout off in the block....you're really really way way screwed.

Good luck,

Wayne








Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
to get the nub out before changing out the oil filter housing. it is a big job.

if you use an easy out, be extremely careful. pull gently smoothly keep it absolutely straight and dont jerk it around.

better yet, try a left hand thread drill and then top out the threads, unless it comes out cleanly.

the easy outs are extremely brittle and easily broken. considering you have broken the stud already i recommend the lh drill. get one that is as close to the size of the solid part of the stud as possible and then take special care in keeping it perfectly straight. take a center punch and make a mark in the center of the stud before trying to start the drill.

good luck. remember, take your time and be meticulous.

tom w
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2006, 01:17 AM
apache's Avatar
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If the bolt didn't break off flush, and there is a significant nub left, try going to Sears and getting a bolt extractor set. I can't stop singing the praises of this tool. Here is a link to the full set. You can buy a smaller set. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952162000

Good Luck!
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  #11  
Old 04-06-2006, 09:22 AM
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Yes that bolt extractor kit from sears Is GREAT!
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2006, 09:54 AM
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Do Not Use Acetylene On The Housing!!

you will melt that aluminum housing in very short order... on the otherhand the bold will just fall out!
Mine have nuts holding the cap on, once the cap is off is there any stud left sticking out? if so, get an angle grinder and gently flatten the stud, so you have a better shot for drilling out the stud.
of course, fill the filter housing with rags before drilling or grinding, metal shavings inside the oil cavity... not good! better yet, keep the cap on the housing while you are drilling.
John
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2006, 11:41 AM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
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This is great!

Thank you very much for all the great advice. I think I will check out one of these bolt removal kits first and foremost if they have them at the local Sears. I'm lucky in the sense that there is some bolt left to grip as long as the cap is off. If it comes down to drilling I will probably pay someone to do it, as I have no xp in this area and it's an 8 mm bolt so there's not much room for error. I don't really like the idea of spending $50 on the kit, but I suppose it's money well-spent if it works. In all likelihood this won't be the last bolt I break, either.

The idea of removing the housing and changing the gasket is a good one, I probably am leaking there a bit, but I don't know if I'm that ambitious right now. My fiancee will only tolerate so much car work and I'm already over that line. I will file that project away for a later date, I think.

I will post an update when I have the bolt removed. Thanks again.
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  #14  
Old 04-06-2006, 12:05 PM
krs krs is offline
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Ralph,

Don't buy the kit until you know what you're going to have to deal with. A bolt extractor like that won't do any good for a flush break. You really need to carefully review the situation before taking any action at all, and Wayne above has posted most relevant cautions although I would be very hesitant to wield a torch in that area, particularly with aluminum involved. Aluminum does not heat to the old familiar colors of steel and even cast iron so it's quite possible to bring it to the point of destruction without prior warning indicators. A broken bolt is not always an easy thing to remove the remainder of, and it is almost always a wonderful opportunity to do further even more extensive/expensive damage than it alone has brought forth.

Last edited by krs; 04-06-2006 at 12:11 PM.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2006, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imdavid28
Yeah, I had the drain plug come out on me when going down the highway a couple weeks ago. That was pretty fun!
Check these pics out. They are from a 351w in an F150. Oil could not drain back to the oil pan so it ran without pressure. This had been happening off and on for weeks and then got to the point he did'nt want to drive it any more. so he drove it a couple of mile to my house to get it fixed and the truck drives fine to this day.
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