I took my wagon in 3 weeks ago for some tranny service at a tranny shop here in DALLAS that "specializes" in Mercedes... They replaced some vaccum components including the modulator, and did a flush, fill, and filter change... ok...

Later that week I took my wagon to another very well respected Mercedes mechanic here in Dallas for some suspension work, and a valve adjustment... He did the work, then mentioned that the gas flap vaccum element was leaking, and he had one on order... He said he disabled some vaccum stuff so the car would shut off, and that I should come back in a week or so to have the part installed... ok...

So I went back yesterday to get the gas flap element installed, and I pointed out that I noticed a cable disconnected under the hood.. (I thought it was something he left off intentionally related the the vac system..) He said it was the transmission shift cable...

SO TODAY i check my tranny fluid, and it is WAY WAY HIGH.... I pulled at least a quart out with the mityvac during the day... and I kept stopping to check the level, and had to pull more and more out... I'm not sure if I'm even done pulling fluid yet.

LONG STORY SHORT... I've been driving around for 3 WEEKS with the shifter cable disconnected, and a quart and a half more fluid in the tranny than normal. I payed the "good guys" good money for these services, and I strike out twice !!

I took it back to the tranny guy, but there was really too much traffic for him to road test it... he sayed it should be ok.. !???!??

I have no idea if the tranny is damaged, or how I adjust the cable so I can do some sort of road test on it... ?

I presume you were checking it with the engine running and the oil hot?

When they refill them after service, they typically fill them cold with the engine not running and make a guess as to how much below the mark they should be. None of them will take the proper time to drive it and get the fluid hot before checking it. It's a common problem.

Yes, I checked HOT, LEVEL, and PARK.. (edit: and Running). That cable is called the bowden cable I guess?

The Bowden cable only controls how early the transmission shifts. If the cable is completely loose or disconnected, the transmission will shift late, but no harm will be done. If your transmission isn't leaking and the fluid wasn't foaming when you checked it, I doubt any damage was done. I'm assuming you know the engine needs to be running in addition to the other conditions that you mentioned for a proper fluid level check. I agree those mechanics are asshats, probably like most mechanics who work on other people's cars. They just don't give a damn. That's why I started doing all my work years ago.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

I'm sure you know this.........

The cable delays the shifts when the pedal is pressed down. So, with no cable, the shifts will all be early, as if you were just pressing very lightly on the pedal.

Probably never get it over 1800 rpm until in 4th.

I just did some tests..

With the car in the carport I checked the fluid level, then turned the bowden cable adjustment Counter Clockwise one turn.
(Counterclockwise from the perspective of a driver sitting in the drivers seat, or a mechanic leaning over the passenger side fender, facing aprox forward..)
I assume this is supposed to tighten the cable, and increase the time between shifts??

Then I took the car out and made a block, stopping at the begining of each of 3 streets and doing a stop to Wide Open Throttle run...

The shift into 2nd was around 3500rpm, the shift into 3rd happened at around 4250.... I didn't get to 4th as I had run out of street.

I then went back to the carport and repeated the same one or two turn bowden cable adjustment and WOT run until i had turned it out 8 full counterclockwise turns, and the adjustment screw FELL Out of its housing.


Each time I adjusted the cable out there was little or no change in the shift points... ???

I'm wondering if the cable is connected at the tranny?

Does it need to be routed a special way? (I can see a clip further down the cable that is just hanging on.. where does it go?)

It's probably time to get under the car and inspect the whole cable. It should go all the way to the transmission. Your shift points seem fine for WOT, but whether they're fine for normal driving is something you'll have to judge yourself.

Brian, yes you are correct. My brain was in reverse for some reason when I posted last time.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Ok, checked under the car:

- The cable is in fact connected to tranny

- There are two clips that guide the cable, and hook to the tranny dipstick... They were off, so i clipped both back in.

Questions:

I can now adjust the bowden cable to the point where it will actually bend the bracket that holds it at WOT... I'm guessing this is too tight ????????

My tests have been only 0 to WOT... These shiftpoints haven't changed with b-cable adjustments, but is 0 to WOT the right way to test the shiftpoints?

Somebody told me that at WOT the tranny should shift at the dots on the speedo??? is this correct?

You call this a MB transmission speciality shop. Whoa, I'm in DFW area, whats name of this shop? So I know NOT to go there.

Bud, check your PMs..

Is 0 to WOT the right way to test bowden cable adjusments? I picked that method just for consistancy...

if a flush machine was used it should be just the same amount as before. those machines can only put in as much as they take out.

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

What's the difference between Flaring and Slipping?? How can you tell?

No not really. If you have the pedal to the floor, you're depressing the kick-down switch which will make the transmission ignore the bowden cable. The way I adjust is to tweak it until it shifts approximately where I want it during normal acceleration. In my '96 this means maximum tension, and the transmission barely shifts late enough. On your car the cable adjustment mechanism is different and you do have to be careful not to brake the plastic part.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Flaring is when it feels like it's going into neutral for a while while shifting. Slipping is when the transmission just doesn't seem to want to stay engaged in a particular gear.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

the proper adjustment is put it so there isn't any play or no tension.
the cable should not be loose or pulling beyond just snug.