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  #1  
Old 04-09-2006, 06:36 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
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Location: Milford, CT
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603 ALDA adjustment questons...

Ok the manifold is off so I figured what the heck I'd tweak the ALDA a bit.
1. Their was a black plastic cap over the screw, I broke it and now no cap. What do you guys use to cover it after you adjust it? I'm going to try and get another cap.
2. There seems to be almost like a tin collar around the top, and it seems to hold the plastic cap on. How do you remove this?
3. The scew is stuck, currantly I have some PB Blaster working at it. Any other ways or tricks to break it free?

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  #2  
Old 04-09-2006, 06:43 PM
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No need for a cap, it's just a tamper-proof lid. You'll probably need to use tin snips or needlenose pliers to tear the metal down. There's a 10mm nut at the base of the screw that needs to be backed off before you can unscrew it. The metal shield needs to be removed before you can get to that nut.

btw: I'm able to remove my ALDA with the manifold in situ, and others have the reported the same. While it's out, definitely check to see if it can hold 10 psi (pressure) for a sustained period. That should tell you if the seal at the base is functioning properly.
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2006, 07:22 PM
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I used a Dremel, with a cutting disk, to remove the metal shield. Very clean and easy. Once visable, back off lock nut and make the appropriate adjustment with the screw. Tighten lock nut and enjoy!
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2006, 09:02 PM
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the screw should be adjusted out, ie CCW for more boost. You can place a shim under the ALDA to see if it will increase acceleration (it should unless gunk is blocking the boost line to the ALDA or some other maladay) then go about removing the metal cover (I peel them off using sharp diagonal cutters) to get to the lock nut. IN fact I just put a copper washer from an oil filter set under an ALDA and decided it ran so great I just left it that way. The shim was too thick for a fine tuning. A purist will want to remove that cover and live with the ugly results. maybe I should get out the dremel tool next time and try doing a neater job, tearing it off leaves a bit of a jagged metal around the base of the cover.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2006, 09:32 PM
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Once you remove the cover, the top nut can be totally removed to take off the remaining part of the cover.

Check on here for threads made by me regarding the 603 ALDA adjustment. I maxed mine and it was WAY too much. I have since farted with mine and it's okay now, good pick up from a dead stop and minimal WOT smoke (well my turbo leaks but that's another story... ).

I have lots of good info in there regarding it along with pictures
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2006, 01:26 PM
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Excellent tomarrow I will play with it.

Hit Man yeah I have been following your posts on the subject. I won't max mine out, maybe max out then return it two turns. My goal is to get it as close as possible on the first try.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2006, 03:38 PM
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It's a nice difference, once you get your L back on the road I think you'll like it.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #8  
Old 04-10-2006, 06:14 PM
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This weekend I will be taking her camping, for a trial run to to speak. Then 4-5 more weeks in the garage in mothball/refit and she will be ready for another season.

The SD's quicker off the line so I am spoiled I don't want to wait until 3k to move!
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  #9  
Old 04-10-2006, 07:40 PM
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Ah if you had to wait until 3000rpm to get going, this will really suprise ya.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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