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#1
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Front Right Wheel Grinding Sound
I have a nasty grinding sound coming from my front right wheel when I brake. Any ideas on the culprit? No indicator lights are on. From what I've read it could be the pads, rotors, or wheel bearings. Any advice as in time, cost, and difficulty of the job would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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#2
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Sometimes when a brake job is done, the replacement pad sensors are left out of the job. This results in the pads wearing down without any indicator light coming on.
You should pull off that wheel and check both the inner and outer pads for wear. And you may be able to turn the wheel around and repeat the noise. So, you may be looking at just pads, or maybe pads and rotors. Just my guess....... Ken300D
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-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#3
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Is it hard to replace pads and rotors? I've done some work on my MB but never brake work. Any estimates on how much $ on parts and how long the job would take.
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#4
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I haven't done a 190 series MB yet, but generally speaking, the pads are easy. The rotors are a bit different from American cars in that they bolt on to the hub, and you replace just the rotor part, keeping the old hub. To do this you have to remove the hub from the spindle, and this results in (typically) needing new wheel bearings and rear grease seal. This takes time, but is not too hard to do with the right tools. A search here on rotor replacement should turn up some information.
You can price the parts at this web site by clicking on "Buy Parts". Pads, Rotors Wheel Bearings Grease Seals But if you get on it quickly, you may be able to avoid a rotor replacement. Good Luck, Ken300D
__________________
-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#5
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The front brakes on these cars (at leas the W123 and W126 etc... not sure about the 201) require the removal of the entire wheel hub, bearings, and such, means you need to put in new seals, repack the bearings with grease, and then reattach the wheel hub to the brake rotor. Not a very fun or easy job. If you know what your doing than its not too hard though....people who've never done brake would would not be in for a pleasant experience...
Edit: Like Ken300D said above
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Whatever you do to the brakes, do it to both right and left, even if only one side is grinding.
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#10
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Thanks guys, excellent advice! I'm hoping it's just the pads, sound like I can do it myself if that's the problem.
Is it a good idea to replace the pads tonight and if I still get the grinding noise take it to a shop? |
#11
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Maybe you should take off the wheel, take some pics while you're at it, and see what you find.
I don't know if the 201's are like the 123's...if they are, then you need a torque wrench when you bolt the new rotors to the hub (100ft/lbs). If the 201's are like the 124, then all you need is an allen wrench (although you do need to unbolt the caliper). Good luck!
__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#12
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You guys were right, the indicator on the brake pad wasn't even hooked up. It needed new pads. I put new ones on both sides that I picked up at Autozone.
Thanks very much for the help! |
#13
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Veggie,
You wore the friction material away and had metal to metal contact. This usually destroys the rotor by putting a rough surface on it that will wear the new pad rapidly. Did U check the rotor for wear? U might have to remove the caliper to see the rotor. Possibly the rotor could be resurfaced if it isn't worn beyond the minimum thickness limits. If not, a new rotor is needed. I don't understand the comments about replacing the bearings and seals. I don't understand how they would be damaged by replacing the rotor on the hub. I also don't agree with replacing all the pads if some are not worn bad. I replace them one at a time and never had a problem. P E H |
#14
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Well, that's true - you would not necessarily have to replace the bearings and grease seal. At his 220k mileage accumulation, the idea for doing that might be to go ahead and take care of it during a convenient maintenance event. That is, do it all at once.
Even if you take the approach of maximum usage of components, I'd go ahead and replace the grease seal because they do wear with usage and lose the ability to seal. Something of a judgement call..... Ken300D
__________________
-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
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