Throttle linkage mania
 

... I know this has been covered in other threads, but alas, my searches yielded little bounty. Yesterday I made a valiant attempt to lube the throttle linkage on my 603 with ATF, and I think I did a decent job. But definately got more ATF on the engine, IP, etc. than actually on the linkage joints. I used a drinking straw, capped off with my thumb to pick up the liquid and then drop it onto the linkage (or onto something else by accident). Is there any great trick I'm missing that makes this job more successful? My dad recommended a silicon spray can ... any particular product I should use that might be easier to apply?

My goal here is to stop a suspected sticky throttle ... I may have helped the issue already, but haven't driven enough to reach any conclusion. It hasn't stuck since I did it last night, but, it usually only does it once every couple of days. Verdict still pending. :o

I really cleaned the old, stiff, crap outta my linkage and just used wheel bearing grease...a little dab in each cup and a light coat on the balls. I read about using ATF, but couldn't see how it would stay in the cup as well as a little dab of real grease. So far it's nice and smooth.

I've done it with a silicon spray can too. I'm not sure if it lasts as long as grease, but it seems to work in the short term.

So I could just grab any old silicon spray off the shelf at Pep Boys, etc.?

Sure, AFAIK there all the same. It works well on the power antenna mast, hood release, door latches, etc. as well.

White lithium grease.

Save the silicone for the antenna.

The most important thing to realize is that you have to get the lubricant into the ball and socket joint. So, if you take each joint apart, you can use the recommended ATF or hydraulic fluid on the joint. Grease tends to attract dirt over time and is probably not the best choice.

But, if you don't take the ball and socket joints apart........due to time and the difficulty in accessing them........you need a spray can with a plastic tube to shoot the lubricant into the joint. I've used WD-40 many times on the SD because there was nothing else around and I didn't want to bother to pop the ball and socket joints (there is about 10 of them on the 617).

Silicone spray would also be fine........if you can find a can with a plastic tube.

Whatever allows you to lubricate the linkage frequently........is the preferred choice.

I did not take the sockets apart, but used the straw and my fingers to sort of finesse the ATF into the joint as best as possible ... stupid question ... to take them apart, do you just pop them out and then back in? Some of them aren't accessable enough to do that with, but a couple I sure could.

You've got the issue. The sockets just pop off the ball and snap right back on. Sometimes you have to invent some tools to get to all of them. Sometimes it's almost impossible.

That's why I use the WD-40 with the spray tube. The straw and your fingers won't get the fluid into the joint. The spray.......and the relatively thin WD-40 will get in there. Naturally, the WD-40 lasts only about three months and you have to do it again.

Yeah, WD-40 is probably better than silicon spray because it should stay in place longer. I just used what I had handy last time. :o

I'm no fan of WD-40.........I'll tell you that.

But, given the choice of pulling every single ball joint.......or just shooting them every three months.........I'll probably defer to it.

Actually, I can pull all the ball joints pretty quickly now. The one on the inside of the IP.......down in no-man's land.......is definitely the exception.:o

Every time I get motivated to do that kind of PM, I usually end up braking something else, like (last time) a plastic vacuum tee on the booster line (about $60).

........you did that too............!!!:eek:

I did it on the SDL when changing UCA's. Only had to give about $42. for it.:o

Actually, I've done it twice, once on each car. I told myself they were old and probably needed replacing anyway. So, I'm a klutz. :o

The linkages are part of the 15,000 mile service as is the valve adjustment. Half of the linkages have to be pulled apart to take the valve cover off anyway, so just do it then. I use ATF on a Q tip to apply. No mess , no drips, no problem.

Len
'83 240D 345,000 miles original owner