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Loop to Pencil Glow Plug Conversion
I've just ordered a conversion kit for my 76 300D (115). Does anyone know if the Bosch kit comes with instructions? If not, is it possible to wire these plugs into the existing circuit such that the glow plug light and ignition swith will function as before? I had to order an extra plug with the kit for all 5 cylinders, will I have to get any other parts for the kit to work on my 5 cylinder?
I've searched the forumn but can't find any specific instructions on this conversion. TIA for the help, David |
I did the switch on a 78 240D. The kit inlcuded decent instructions, but will not directly plug into any harness. You'll have to do a little custom wiring. I did a write-up on it at http://home.comcast.net/~phantoms/vacuum/index.htm. Unfortunately, all the large pictures were lost on a server change over and I didn't have them backed up.
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Glow Plugs
I cannot speak for a W115, but i did the conversion on my 79 W123. There are two ways to do it, 1) convert you series setup (79 W123) to a Series/Parallel set up, this is done by removing the old glow plugs/wires and Grounding strap and installing the new plugs with new fabricated jumpers wires to each plug( Leave the Grounding strap off the last plug off,Cyl #1). This method will improve your starting immeasurably. I drove around for months like this and it worked fine, The problem with this is the plugs go off when the engine starts.
With the new relay kit the plugs stay on for 3 minutes after engine starts and this smooths out the idle untill the car heats up, works great. Because you car has five cyls you have to order the extra plug and you will need a extra relay to work # 5 cyl i think the part # is 0 332 002 156. Yes, the kit comes with instructions. I hope this helps but remember mine is a 79 W123. |
I ordered the additional relay and an extra glow plug. Is the addtional relay used in conjunction with the relay in the kit or does it replace the one in the kit? I received the kit today and the instructions don't mention how to wire it for a 5 cylinder.
Thanks for all your help |
Relay
If you have a 5 Cyl, then its its for the extra cyl, are you sure there are no extra instructions for the 5th cyl???:confused:
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Nope, no 5 cylinder instructions in the fast glow kit. Just 1 sheet with instructions in 8 languages.
The extra relay will arrive in a few days maybe it will have some instructions. Thanks again, |
Gp
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Thanks, you have a new PM
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On my 77 I just replaced the plugs, removed the ground strap, installed the jumper wires between each plug and hooked plug #1 up to the existing relay system. I did this about 3 yrs ago and have had no problems at all. I don't see any real need to keep the plugs on after the engine starts since I don't have any post-start idle problems. Made a HUGE difference in cold starts (below 10 degrees fahrenheit)
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Sorry, as stated all the large images were lost on a server change. In fact, the whole page was lost and the only way it's there now is by the gracious help of users here who had archived it. The next time I'm around my daughter's car, I'll try to get some new pictures.
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Your going through a lot of trouble for nothing. You dont need to replace the ralay.
http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieselloopglowplugrepair.htm |
Got Glow, Now Wont Start
Well, I hooked the plugs up to the existing relay, they glow fine but I still cant get the thing started. A little history:
My daughter drove this car all last year before leaving for college in August. It sat in our driveway for a couple months before I started it and took it out for an hour or so and filled up the tank with fuel. Car sat some more until December when my daughter came home for Christmas. I tried to start it for her but couldn't, I wrote it off to cold weather. Let is sit for a couple more months and tried to start again, found an open (old loop style) glow plug. Converted to pencil style but still no start. I've taken out a glow plug and grounded it and turned the key to the glow position and the plug gets red hot instantly so I'm sure I got good glow plugs. What's an easy way to check if it's getting fuel? It seems just on the verge of catching sometimes but won't kick over. Is it possible the fuel's bad? How would I tell? This car ran great all last year for my daughter, I'm at a loss as to why it won't start now. TIA, David |
Running Finally!!!
Well after pumping the priming pump for what seemed like an eternity until I finally heard the buzzing noise and then pumping another full eternity, then cranking for about 30 seconds straight it finally caught and seems to run great. I'm letting it cool down now and see how another cold start goes.
I've never adjusted the valves on this so I think that's my next project and maybe a flush with the stuff at Diesel Giant. I also need to replace my injector return hoses, as they're all weeping. Could that have been the cause of the air in the system (or whatever required so much priming)? Final question: This is a W115 with an OM617 and I can't find any fuel pre-filter (the main filter is in a canister not a spin on), can I just add a pre-filter to this setup? Was there originally supposed to be a pre-filter? Thanks again for everyone's help. |
Yes, there is supposed to be a pre-filter. You can just splice in one of the L shaped prefilters from the later models.
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[QUOTE=david.churchill]
I've never adjusted the valves I also need to replace my injector return hoses, as they're all weeping. Could that have been the cause of the air in the system (or whatever required so much priming)? Adjusting the valves could be a big help in starting your car. They tighten up over time causing poor compression which will cause your engine not too start.. Your engine needs to turn over at least 100 RPMs for starting so a healthy starter motor is a factor also. Leaking return lines wont be a problem for starting like with a Cummins. |
David,
Injector, IP and main fuel filter return lines could allow air to get into the fuel lines. Its possible that air could enter the fuel filter thru the filter bleed hole as the fuel gravity flows back to the fuel tank if the return lines leak. The valves in the fuel pump should prevent this but they could have a tiny leak that overtime could allow air into the system. Air will not get into the fuel lines when the engine is running if the return lines leak because the main fuel filter is under pressure. The engine will run fine, even with the return lines removed but will leak fuel badly. I had a fuel leak on a 116 this week because an injector line leaked. The tank was full and since the fuel level in the tank was higher than the line on the engine, so the fuel gravity flowed out. |
Thanks all for the info. I suspect then that maybe the valve adjustmet was the biggest issue. I'll attempt that as soon as I can get a new valve cover gasket. My car is parked with the rear end facing up a sloped driveway and had a full tank when I last ran it so I guess that their shouldn't have been any air in the lines. It seems to be starting fine now, the starter is in good shape and the battery provided numerous long cranking attempts even after repeated long pre-glow operations although I did top it off on a charger last night.
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I completely forgot about taking new pictures. I have the car in my shop right now replacing a transmission for my daughter. I'll try to get so new pics Monday.
BTW, take the fuel cap off after it's running for a while and see if you here suction when removing it. If so, could also have a clogged fuel tank vent. |
Got some pictures with the Camera phone and added them back to the glowkit installation page at http://home.comcast.net/~phantoms/vacuum/index.htm. Still missing a couple pictures.
BTW, snapped this pic last weekend:http://home.comcast.net/~phantoms/miles.jpg |
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Does anybody know if the relay from the 4 cylinder series plug system will be able to handle being converted to a 5 cylinder parallel system? I am putting a 5 cylinder engine in my 240 that was equipped with the loop style plugs. I am planning to do the upgrade following the instructions on dieselgiant's site, but do not want to fry my relay. Thank you. |
thanks to Phantom!
I know this tread is stone cold, but if Phantom is still listening, thanks to you! After reading the BOSCH instructions for the F1101-88322 kit the third time, I realized that I wasn't going to get it without help, and I found it here.
It seems a lot of people just use existing relay and that works fine without the after glow, but if I bought the new relay, I want to use the relay. It doesn't "plug-n-play", but needs to be spliced into the original connector under the dash (after removing it from the original relay). I used Phantom's instruction, only the wire colors didn't quite match up (mine is a 79 240D). Here is what I spliced in: Original Harness New harness. Pin 1 brown - Pin 1 brown. Pin 3 violet - Pin 4 black. Pin 4 bk/bu/gn - Pin 3 red. Pin 7 black - Pin 5 green. There is nothing in the instructions about the strip fuse, but with that much amperage running around, you ought to have a weak link somewhere manageable. I kept mine upstream of the relay and left the 55A in for now. It sounds like the 80A is more appropriate, but hopefully the old one will hold out till its replacement gets here (why wasn't that in the kit?) The other question that seems to be coming up is how to do a five cylinder. The kit came with an extra wire, so I think all you need is to buy an additional glow plug. Don't trust me however, I'm a 4-cyl kind of guy. Thanks again to everyone who takes the time to share their time and expertise. This forum is a gold mine of info! |
Great info, and thanks a ton for posting it! I'm doing the duratherm upgrade this weekend on the '79.
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With the instructions from this thread, the entire upgrade took me around 2 hours from start to finish...thanks again, everyone!
BTW, amazing difference in starting and initial idle. 5 second starts rather than 45 second starts... Quote:
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i hope i can get some help with this. I got a 1975 300d and the last owner updated the glow plugs and fried a lot of wiring, it starts now with some late model glow timer and relay wired in. however the pre glow indicator light is totally fried the plastic is completely burned off. I want to replace this but I am unsure how to wire it and what to replace
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You might check and see that the last owner did not substitute a higher Wattage Light Bulb into the GP Light. You actually don't need the Glow Plug Light. It is just there to act as a Prompt for the Driver. After you use what you have for a while you will learn to gestimate how long you need to preglow. |
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The 80 on original Mercedes relays are by far the best way to improve the glow performance of any older Mercedes diesel. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/328382-fast-glow-my-76-240-d.html |
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