I just did two on my 126. Worked fine; planning on using it soon on a set for the 123. Works great on trailing arm bushings too.

Trust me, it's a worthwhile purchase.


It's on sale for 19.99: Harbor Freight Press

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Thanks for the link. Good price, too. I just put the order in

Do I have to remove the spring and the lower control arm in order to be able to remove that lower balljoint?

One local parts supplier here in BC Canada told me that it comes with the whole control arm, which is $250.
So u folks figured out a way to change them here.
Thanks a million.

No you don't.
See link in post #2

Danny

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Yea Danny I read your repair write-up, but I don't exactly understand what the balljoint is pressed into. Is it pressed into the steering knuckle but is simply bolted on to the control arm, is that what you're saying? So once you remove the bolt, you can beat it out of the control arm to separate but then have to press it out of the knuckle to remove it completely?

Sorry for being dense.

That wasn't my writeup, I just posted the link.
Yes, The ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle.
Check out this link:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/Index/Groups/33FrontSuspension.htm
Section 33-440.
serf around to other sections as well.

The top of the ball joint is bolted to the Lower Control Arm. It is tapered and does not come off easy.
This is the proper tool for removing lower joint:

But most people use a pickle fork. You can rent them for free at AutoZone.
Use this for tie rod ends and Upper Control Arm joints:


Danny

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Another dumb question, are the upper and lower ball joint the same part number?
In our area ( Norther BC Canada, color TV was only couple of yrs old. What an brilliant invention) parts folks only sell you the whole upper control arm, they figure we're too dumb to pop out the old BJ.

The upper control arm does not separate from its balljoint, so if you need to replace the upper balljoint, you simply buy the whole upper control arm. The Mercedes Benz parts catalogue confirms that statement.

That is correct. The upper control arm is sold as one piece as shown here:

That joint is a lot smaller than the lower one.

danny

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If you're in Canada can try www.hopefungautoparts.com the control arm is under $100. Most other places were $30 more.

It came from Italy, it 'll probably out last my car anyways, plus I'm not going to race her at LeMans.

Danny I have an interesting observation about the electronic service manual for the chassis work. The link you gave me to the website with the MB electronic service manual details the balljoint job for a W123. I have a full factory electronic manual on my PC, and when I look up Chapter 33 (front axle) for a W126 (which is what my car is), it lists very little in terms of repair procedures - virtually no detailed repair instruction for lower balljoints. If you look up Chapter 33 (front axle) for a W123, the full repair instructions are there for the lower balljoint... What's the deal? Does W126 have the exact same procedure for lower balljoint as W123 and so they decided to skip it in the W126 section? I guess they expect their mechanics to know which procedures are common among different chassis models and check them if the ones for their exact chassis model are unavailable?

This is an important point for using electronic service manuals. I guess it is important to know which MB models share certain parts that you need, so that if you don't have repair instructions for your exact model, you could check instructions for other models that share the same part numbers... Am I on the right track with this idea or totally off?

I just guessed about the model vehicle for that link because you lack information in your profile.

You are right in your conclusions of the service manual. It's hard to find specific 126 manuals on line. Brain Gears used to have them but all their links seem to be dead
Maybe one day they'll be back??

For simple repairs like suspension and such it's safe to use the 123 manuals. However NOTHING replaces plain old common sense!

Danny

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