The dealer here knows what the published acceleration is but not sure why it is not, "up to par" so to speak. I don't think they have a clue. What is really scary is I also bought an E350 from them! I sure hope it doesn't develop any unusual issues or I may be living with it forever!
Any how, I will speak to them about this one more time as I believe I have exhausted the usual culprits. I will keep you all informed if they are successful in diagnosing and repairing this car. Maybe it will be of value to all who have tried to help me.
Thank you gentleman for all of your help.

**Update from the dealer. Now he tells me there are no "published" performance specs from Mercedes. Hmmm, that sounds like more of what I am coming to expect from this dealer....NOTHING! If anyone knows what I should check for as far as the lack of boost (9 PSI max), I will try anything. I checked codes today, nothing unless I'm doing it wrong. Turbo spins free. EGR is clean and operates freely. Hoses off the manifold, flapper, EGR are clean and not leaking. I'm seriously stumped. Vacuum transducers maybe? Or should I switch to Dilithium crystals, LOL. Thanks for any help!

they are full of it.

sorry.

if you bought it from the dealer you should just take it back and say fix it or take it back.

my 84 300sd was a turd slow too. the dealer tried to tell me it was working just fine. so i took the service manager out on the road. running sixty i floored it. it kicked down and just didnt accelerate, hardly at all. i said "see?" he said oh yeah. the turds hadnt even driven the car. they just took off the u tube and looked to see if the turbo was spinning.

it turned out to be a cracked line to the banjo fitting at the back of the valve cover.

it got great mileage that way though. 29 on the highway, best i ever got.

tom w

Have you checked the see if your dumpnig boost
 

EGR - Vacuum Transducer Leak Test

Date: August 1999

Order No.: P-SI-MBUSA-14.20/13

Supersedes:

Group: 14

SUBJECT:
ALL DIESEL MODELS
EGR VACUUM TRANSDUCER LEAK TEST

Following are procedures for an EGR vacuum transducer in-car characteristic curve test, internal leak test, and external leak test.

In-car characteristic curve test

The Mercedes-Benz Special Tool vacuum gauge (see below) is used to monitor the vacuum signal of the EGR vacuum transducer while operational in the vehicle. The leak test is performed at 25%, 50%, and 75% duty cycle (DC) using the Hand-Held Tester (HHT). Duty cycle is activated by way of the HHT 'activation' menu (the second screen of # 3 "EGR valve").

1. Check the vacuum pump for proper output. See appropriate diagnostic material for specifications.

2. Make sure the vacuum gauge needle reads "0".

3. Connect the vacuum gauge hose to the EGR vacuum transducer OUT cover port.

4. With the engine idling, activate the duty cycle using the HHT and observe the vacuum gauge readings.

5. The vacuum gauge should read steady, with no oscillation, within the below applicable tolerance ranges.

6. The vacuum reading should drop to its nominal value again once disconnecting the HHT.

7. If the vacuum reading is not within its applicable tolerance range, replace the vacuum transducer.


Tolerance Ranges

Note : The HHT can only access the duty cycle of the EGR vacuum transducer. To test the pressure flap/waste gate transducer, the electrical plug must be disconnected from the vacuum transducer and connected to the pressure flap/waste gate transducer. Make sure the electrical plug is connected back to its original position upon completion and all DTC's are erased after the test.

Internal leak test

1. Connect the vacuum gauge hose to the EGR vacuum transducer ATM cover port.

2. Leave the VAC and OUT cover ports open.

3. Pump up the vacuum until the gauge reads approximately 450 mbar (13").

4. If the vacuum gauge reading drops from 450 mbar to 400 mbar in less than 2 seconds, replace the EGR vacuum transducer.


External leak test

1. Cap-off the OUT and ATM cover ports.

2. Connect the vacuum gauge hose to the VAC cover port.

3. Pump up the vacuum until the gauge reads approximately 600 mbar (18").

4. If the vacuum gauge reading drops from 600 mbar to 500 mbar in less than 15 seconds, replace the EGR vacuum transducer.


In Case of Warranty

Operation: Replace EGR vacuum transducer

Damage Code Operation Number Time (hrs.) Model Indicator(s)

14398 04 14 8012 0.4 *

* see Microfiche for applicable model

Parts Information

Part Name Part Number

EGR vacuum transducer A 000 545 03 27
EGR vacuum transducer A 000 545 04 27

Well, had it at the dealer all day today and they tested the transducers as well as running the codes again that was suggested by PMARI (thank you, sir). Heres what they found. Car coded "15", (boost failure, vacuum transducer Y31/5). They tested it and said it passed the vacuum test. Other possibilities are the EDS controller or wiring problem. They said they checked the wiring and it was OK. So that leaves the controller, but they are not sure and its way $$$. All day there and the best they can come up with is "we're not sure"! This means, I think, that I should just start throwing parts on it and see what happens. I really can't believe that a dealer can't do a better job of diagnosing a problem that is not intermittent.

i would let them throw parts at it on their nickel.

tom w

How close is the next closest Mercedes dealer to you? Might be worth a drive as it sounds like yours is not willing to stand behind their company's products. My local dealership here in the Dallas area, though not perfect, would never stoop to such a level. If I could not get satisfaction from the dealer and there were no other dealers nearby, I would contact Mercedes Benz directly and complain. Good luck,

If you deside to investigate this problem some more on your own, this is how and what I did on mine. Remember, I have a 91 2.5, not a 93. I don't know what the differences are so if I say something that doesn't make sense, the blame it on the differences in the cars and not on my OLD and FEBLE brain.
First, you will need a vacuum guage and a boost guage.
With engine running, check the vacuum on the system at the vacuum transducer for the turbo. This will be the line suppling the vacuum to the transducer. I would think it will be 20 in or more. If not, find the vacuum leak, or repair the vacuum pump. If vacuum is good, connect this vacuum supply directly to the turbo waste gate. You possible will need some vacuum connectors, tee's, and hose. With the vacuum hooked to the turbo waste gate, go for a test drive, being very carefull not to overboost to much or for very long. If boost is good, you have proven the boost can work. If not good, look for bad or stuck wastgate actuator, partially pluged exhaust, or bad turbo. On mine, I found the vacuum transducer defective. Actually, all three of mine were leaking vacuum. (car has over 300K miles on it.)
I've got to go to work now so If you deside to investigate this problem and find something, maybe I can go into what I did to make mine work.

Thanks for the tip! I will try that this weekend.

Y/31-5 Or Y27/4, Y27/5