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  #1  
Old 04-30-2006, 05:11 PM
Diesel Giant's Avatar
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Pictorial on how to change the oil cooler hoses.

I just finished loading the pictorial on how to change the oil cooler hoses.

http://dieselgiant.com/oilcoolerlinereplacementl.htm

Let me know if this helps.

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1981 300D 147k
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2006, 05:27 PM
ForcedInduction
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Geez, what's next? A step by step guide to a complete engine rebuild?
*cough*cough* Upper oil pan *cough*cough*

Keep up the great work.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2006, 05:59 PM
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thx for the eduation!
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2006, 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the great write-up. I need to change my engine mounts and my oil cooler lines sooner than later, so it will be a great help.
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2006, 07:16 PM
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Yet again, an excellent write up. I wished I would have had this when I did my mounts. It would have made it a heck of a lot easier.
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2006, 07:43 PM
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Diesel Giant, please clear out your PM inbox.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2006, 07:52 PM
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I did it a year ago without any specially modified wrenches, and also my cooler died in the process. Took me about 14 hours and 60 trees worth of shop towels. I did the motor mounts too, at least that part went smoothly on mine. Putting in the new lines took me over an hour to jam them through. They've been perfect ever since though! I opted out of replacing the engine shocks, saved me $80 and my engine still runs/shuts off so smoothly that it can barely be felt anyways (feels like a gasser).
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2006, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzkid
Diesel Giant, please clear out your PM inbox.

Ok I just did, did not realize that I was at my maximum.
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1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair
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  #9  
Old 04-30-2006, 11:10 PM
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Nice write up. I'd add some extra caution regarding the threads on the oil cooler. I've replaced oil cooler lines perhaps 3 times in the past two years. I always "test" the tightness of the nuts securing the lines to the cooler. If they feel tight beyond comfort I cut the hoses and remove the cooler from the car. Then use a demel to cut the nut along 4 of the faces, being cautious not to cut/score the aluminum nipple. These cuts on the nut perpindicular to the oil cooler will loosen the nut and allow PB Blaster to penetrate deeper.
I always flush the cooler with gasoline and blow the tubes out with a can of carb cleaner. Perhaps overkill but this leaves the inside of the cooler perfectly clean.
Make certian that the new hose union is not cross-threaded. These aluminum threads are fragile and not forgiving.

-Kevin
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2006, 11:22 PM
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I did the dremeling on my lower cooler bolt to try to save the cooler, but it was no use, and they crumbled into my oily hands. Thankfully I found a brand new shiny one on ebay (a Behr one!) for about $200, so that was cool. less than half of what they normally cost....

You can see my 1 year old oil cooler and upper line, 2 month old upper radiator hose, and 2 week old radiator in this pic.....$$$$$$

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2006, 04:11 PM
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Yea those oil coolers must be made out of some kind of gold alloy to be that expensive.

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1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair
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