Caster is adjustable using the track bar and camber is adjusted by the offset lower control arm bushings. Toe, of course, is adjusted with the tie rod ends. On the W123 front suspension, EVERYTHING is adjustable.

yeah, i should have said usually only the toe needs adjusting.

the rear has nothing adjustable, for all practical purposes.

tom w

You can set toe yourself pretty easily using four jackstands, two pieces of string, a tape measure, and a T-square. Run some string between a pair of jackstands. Place the jackstands so that they pull the string tight. Then do the same for another pair of jackstands with the string parallel to the first pair, a little further apart than the width of the car. Use the tape measure to measure the distance between the strings at the front and rear. Adjust to make the distances equal. Your strings are now parallel.

Next, drive the car in between the strings. Use the T-square at two points on each side to verify that the car is parked parallel to both sets of strings. Use a floor jack and some muscle to move the car until your front points (not really important which points as long as they are the same on each side) and rear points (ditto) are the same distances from the strings.

Now place the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position and block it into position using whatever is handy, and use the T-square to measure the distance between each wheel at the front and rear and its respective string. Adjust tie rods to make each wheel toe in to your desired spec, 1/16 inch will work for most RWD cars. Tighten down tie rod bolts. Re-check distances from the strings to make sure everything stayed put. Adjust as necessary.

If you did everything right, there is no further need for "professional" alignment to set the toe.

This works best if you have a pit to work from, or on a vehicle where you can adjust the tie rods without having to raise the vehicle.