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Old 05-01-2006, 05:53 PM
deltajetfixer's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sharpsburg, GA
Posts: 276
Help on a 123, please

Gentlepeople,

I'm in the process of browsing for a W123. I've come across a pristine 1982 model 300D and am wondering what the "Gotcha's" are.

If anyone could also point me to the differences between the 123.130 and 123.132 chassis (I'm looking at parts diagrams in the EPC) I'd be grateful as well.

I'm a pretty good wrench and have worked on many air and water cooled VW's, my own '99 E300, and my gone but not forgotten '95 Carrera. ANY caveats would be welcome. It's got to be pretty "sick" for me to start getting scared!

Thanks in advance!

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Old 05-01-2006, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 13,667
Where's it at and I'll ck it out and get back to you
jk'ing - anyway pull up the floor board mats (under the floor mats) and inspect the floor boards, look under the bottom edge of the doors and obvious at all of the exterior fender sections. Look for panels being different colors (where some repairs have been done). I have gotten to the point there I do not turn em down if they need brakes or mechanical work as long as I can get a handle on it's "history". I purchased my first 300D a few years ago and had to drive it home with just the emergency brakes to stop. Purchased it for $1500, repaired what needed to be fix and drove it for about three years before selling it for $2200. Anyway you can't be too choosy these days so if the rust is minimum and it starts easily I would pick it up if the $$ is right.
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Old 05-02-2006, 07:16 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
I am not sure why you ask about 123.130 and 123.132. What you are looking at should be a 123.133, I think.

Jim is right- it's all about the body and interior. Interior is especially expensive if you are fussy (unless you shop religiously at u pull its). Most mechanical issues can be addressed cheaply if you can turn your own wrenches. The one caveat would be that a major overhaul of an OM617.95x (turbo) is very expensive, so be sure the engine is sound.

Rick
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:28 PM
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Location: Geographically challenged on the S.W shores of Lake Michigan in S,E Wisconsin
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1. Hoodpad still there? All of the cars had one at original. 80 bucks.
2. Are the panels around the front jack points still there?
3. Is that front fender loose? it may be rusted underneath.
4. Pull the cover off the spare and pull the tire. can you see sunlight?
5. Pull the cover on the other side where the jack and emergency kit are. same question.
6. Are the outside lips of the wheel arch rusted thru?
7. You really need to drive the car. does it track straight?
8. Rock the front fenders. do the shocks squeak? when you look at them is there fluid leaking from them?
9. Does the motor have oil all over it? is the bottom covered in oil? bad leak somewhere. usually the turbo return line from under the air cleaner.
10. Speaking of the air cleaner does it rock? broken mounts. cheep.
11. Is there rust around the rear window?
12. Does the rear hatch stay up w/o using a broom handle? nabout 30 bucks each.
13. Does the car have a sunroof? get a couple gallons of water and pour one over the front corners. if water comes into the car the drains need work. this involves taking the headliner apart. i did it. my wife was very helpful.
14. Pull the battery. is the tray in one piece?
15. Is the bulkhead under the battery tray still one piece or has a hole opened up? expensive weld job for a trained person.
16. Clean out under the hood springs. you can stand up the hood. is the area under the accumulated debris still in one piece? more welding.
17. Just for snicks, does the radio work? does the antenna go up and down. its electric.
18. Do the heater controls work? it might just be a connection issue like on mine or it might be the complicated controls. i don't know. mine is horizontal. the complicated one is vertical. a new one is expensive.

4, 5 and 12 are pertinent to the wagon so if you are looking at a sedan get crazy and pull the mat in the trunk. Look at the spare well for rust. Pull the plastic inner fenders and look for sunlight or rust.


Stuff to change

1. The oil
2. The oil filter
3. The primary fuel filter
4. The secondary fuel filter
5. The air cleaner
6. The power steering fluid
7. The ps filter-You may have the original wooden one.
8. The trans fluid
9. The trans filter
10. The rear diff fluid.
11. The glow plugs
12. The battery.
13. The coolant
14. Change the wipers
15. the engine belts.

Lubricants should be changed to a synthetic. Lucas additives are also highly thought of.

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[1981 300 td tdidi 165500 dark brown/palamino-Brownie-mine-3k miles of ownership
1983 240d 162+++ Anthricite grey w/ henna red interior and hella lights-wifes car-Red

the above two cars are for sale
and can be seen on the cars for sale thread here. pix also available.


240d-144+ Manilla Yellow w/ palmino interior-greasecar kit-Blondie-the college kids car

23" gt 21 speed still on original tires-still got the nubs
21" khs tandem
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