|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How much to replace rear window seal - '78 300D
I have ordered a rear window seal (Lemfoerder) - water leaking into the rear speaker wells. 2 questions: I found a shop in OKC to pull the glass and replace the seal (after calling around a few places these folks came recommended for old mercedes). They want $125 - which I thought was high - what do you guys think?
Secondly, I have read most of the posts regarding this, but can I do it myself? One guy, who does it for a living, didn't want to try it - he was afraid of ruining the aluminum trim. Any advice? ryan
__________________
RG Newell 1984 300D 1972 250 1986 560SL 1991 300CE |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
That sounds dam cheap, I have had a seal in my garage for about 2 years, I cant find anybody to do it less than 350.00 they told me the rear glass is about a 1000 to replace?
__________________
84 300 Turbo / 320,000 96 E300 D / 55,000 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Mike
__________________
_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
As competitive as gas places are nowadays, that figure might not be too far off.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
1st: Pay the $125 if you do not have the time and place to do the work.
2nd: It can be done at home. It takes time and a safe place to take out the window, clean out the area where the old seal was. I did this job just a few weeks ago myself, never did it before. It is fully documented here on the board. Folks do recommend that if the glass breaks by the installer then have a plan for getting the replacement and an agreement on who pays for it. Plenty of spare rear glass should be available. The trim is in the rubber seal until the window comes out. The trim is inserted into the new rubber seal before installing window. (pull window, remove trim, remove seal, install new seal on glass, install trim into rubber seal, install glass)
__________________
80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
i would clean it and caulk with a small bead of black silicone and send the gasket back or keep it in reserve.
just a few days ago caulked my leaking back glass on my 84 sec. it had a new gasket professionally installed two years ago. i told them to caulk with silicone when they installed it but i bet they didnt. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The quoted price does not seem unreasonable at all.
Do we recommend the Lemforder replacement seal or a dealer MB seal? Ken300D P.S. Those seals get so old that they often develop splits. I've even heard of them drying up so much the back glass rattles. At this point, unless the car is a bomb, I think it's time to go for a replacement instead of caulking. Just an opinion.
__________________
-------------------------- 1982 300D at 351K miles 1984 300SD at 217K miles 1987 300D at 370K miles |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I was warned by a friend not to use silicone to seal a window but use propor eurethane window sealant. I don't know why that is I will ask him when I see him again. You can get the right stuff at napa.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I was able to find prices as low as $75 to change the seal. However (1) no guarantee that the glass will not be broken (2) what if there is rust that needs to be treated in the channel.
For these reasons, I have sucessfully done 2 rear windows and a windshield myself (well- family project), as well as 2 Triumphs and a VW. And I use only the cheapest non-OEM seals. No problems yet. I don't know where that OEM seal bunk started- probably with the glass pros who would rather pay (or have YOU pay) more to save 15 minutes on the job and go on to rob somebody else. The OEM seals MAY fit a bit better in the top corners, but that's not where the water comes in. Don't use silicone on the glass to metal seal (OK on glass to rubber seal , though) It contains acetic acid which is not metal-friendly Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Rhodes, I haven't gone back and read your post recently. But don't you need to cut the old seal to enable you to pull the glass?
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Cutting the seal from the inside first makes removing the glass pretty easy. I used the OEM seal ($78) and MB sealant ($19), and I would recommend both (and I'm a cheap SOB)
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Pete-
I have a big family of needy (3rd world) cars so I cheap out on rubber. I also use 3M bedding compound. Lucky so far, I guess. Is there anyone out there who has used BOTH OEM and generic rubber? Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I haven't decided yet if I am going to try this myself or not...
But, I can't tell what brand is OEM for sure. Lemfoerder is listed as OEM in several places and it is a little more expensive than some other brands I have seen (APA, etc), but I didn't get it at the dealer. ryan
__________________
RG Newell 1984 300D 1972 250 1986 560SL 1991 300CE |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
rgnprof-
If this is your one and only attempt, I'd say let the "pros" do it. The rear glass is scary to me because it seems very thin and curved. The second one I did was a breeze. They get easier every time (knocks wood). If you do decide to do it, be sure to take the opportunity to stretch the gasket as evenly as possible around the glass as you go. Go back and pull more and tape it every few inched with duct tape. It gets frightening when you get to the final corner and you have to stretch and pull the gasket over the corner to finish. Start out with a warm gasket that has been allowed to assume the shape of the glass. And , of course read the manual and anything pertinent here. Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
Bookmarks |
|
|