What else should I do? 300TD rear subframe
 

well i need to drop the sub frame to replace the trailing arms, so i plan on new bushings, but what else is there? thanks for the ideas...

Mo

I just got done with the trailing arm bushings on my sd, and it was a royal PITA! It took probably a total of 20 hours to do the whole job. A good peice of all thread, a bunch of big washers and a short section of wide pipe can make getting the bushings in and out a lot easier, but then again, you are going to have the trailing arms off the car right?

yes, I need to replace the trailing arms, so i think the easy way will be to drop the subframe. also any good leads on parts will be appreciated.

thanks, mo

My Father and I replaced EVERYTHING. It all started because of rotted and rusty hard lines...we tore it all out. I would change over all that you can afford too - why not and it will be good for a nother 100k. Look at the tank flex line, the tank screens, the fuel lines, subframe mounts to aid alignment...the diff mount - diff fluid...etc...

Also - take the subframe out and do the work bench side...

Jake

also my bushings were a PITA - we sawsalled them out...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/97305-replaced-fuel-brake-lines-today.html?highlight=hardlines

why do you have to change both arms?

tom w

yeah- i need to replace the fuel supply line, prolly all the steel under there.(SS)

it's got cancer on both trailing arms. one i had to weld a patch on and the other has a quarter size hole in it. found them for a resonable price online.

whats a good place to buy bushings?

yep, sounds like you need them both.

your favorite mb parts specialist.

tom w

so I found trailing arm bushings here at MBshop. do i get eccentric centers or no?
2 of each?
I need to get all my parts together befor i tackle the job.

I found a small bottle jack to be uber helpful on this project. I made it really easy to move the subframe around without getting out from underneath the car to jack it up.

The eccentric centered bushings aren't necessary or, even useable by mere mortals....those are only needed if the subframe has been damaged and can only be used if you have the huge plate steel alignment fixture.

Yes, you need two of each bushing.

thanks for the insight. i was wondering how I would align it. I assume you mean i need four non-eccentric bushings.

anyone know off hand the thread size of the hydraulic lines- i have a feeling that i will need to replace some of those once i get everything apart. although, i suppose brake lines are easy to come by and cut to length.

Yes, non-eccentric bushigns are what you need....regardless of what sompleace like Jiffy Align may think or tell you, no rear wheel alignment is possible on a 115, 116, 123 or 126 without the mega-fixture.

Under hard braking, brake lines are subjected to a few thousand psi...not exactly the sort of item that you want to cut and patch with fuel line and hose clamps. You should purchase new flexible hoses from Fast Lane. The steel lines have special flares. They should be purchased from Mercedes-Benz™ or a reputable aftermarket supplier.

i would never patch a brake line w/ a rubber hose and clamps(fuel line, maybe!)- but i do have and know how to use a double flaring tool for steel lines. i had to buy it when i replaced brake lines on my 77 pass. school bus. one piece line from the master cyl to the rear axel. i replaced all the rusty stuff, about the last 10 ft of a 30+ft run. handy tool- i've used it a lot.

note: do not double flair SS lines- they are too brittle and will fail!

Don't know for sure but, the flare on these cars may be a different angle than an American vehicle.

Replace all the rubber parts while you have the subframe out. However it is not required to remove the subframe to do the rear suspension. To do the fuel lines, Yes.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/60964-300td-rear-suspension-rebuild.html?highlight=dave+300td+rear+suspension

Dave