In replacing the fuel filters on a 1987 300D. Do I need to bleed the system and then prime the engine. I know that on the earlier models there is a pump on the engine for this function. I do not see the pump on the 87. Any help on fuel filter replacement would be great.

the system in that one is self bleeding.

but if you find it a problem recheck your connections and you can use wd40 as a primer. remove the filter and spray directly into the intake while someone else cranks the car. it will run on it til the fuel comes in.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The most important step is to fill the secondary filter completely to the top with fresh fuel. It's a bit tricky to install with a full canister, but, any air left in the top of this filter will compound your starting difficulty with this engine.

There is no primer pump........the starter must do all the work.

Don't crank the starter for more than 20 seconds or so without a break for a few minutes to allow it to cool. Hopefully it will start and run within 20 seconds.

I've never tried the WD-40 approach, but, it does appear to be a valid alternative to extended cranking.

In addition to filling the "spin-on" filter (we presume you know that this is not actually "spun-on" to something - it is held by a bolt) with clean diesel, you should run the car up to operating temperature before changing the filter(s).

This makes the car easier to restart after the filter change.

If you do these things the car will probably restart without any change from a normal warm start. It might not even stumble any, but if it does it will be minor.

Give us some more details on the car. Where did you find it? How much mileage is on it now?

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

I found the car is Charleston, SC. The outside is a 9 out 10 and the inside is a 8 out of 10. Right now the car has just over a 172K. Everything is working well on the car. The car alarm goes off after about 60 mins if I lock the car from the drivers side, but there is no issue is I lock from the trunk.

So if I am understanding this correctly replacing the main and secondary filter is basically remove and replace. Except for having to fill up the secondary filter with clean diesel. Which sounds a bit tricky. Does the secondary filter need to be filled with clean diesel to work? Or will it start without?

Yes.

No, it will not start without.

It is not really very tricky. It does not have to be absolutely full. The starter will allow the IP to purge the air. You just want it as full as you can get it to save the starter. Since this is a new car to you fill it with injector cleaner. I use SeaFoam. (You only need to do this every once in a while to clean the injectors.)

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

I would also suggest stepping on the accelerator pedal after starting the engine to run the RPM's up to 2000 or so. It will keep the fuel flowing to the engine and minimize the effects of the air in the lines until the lines are purged.

When I first changed my spin-on fuel filter I filled it most of the way up and then I installed it. I figured that was good enough to keep the engine running after I started it, but the engine promptly died 30 seconds after I started it. I then had to crank the engine over for 20 seconds and floor the accelerator several times before it would start again.

-Steve

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1987 300TDT smoke silver w/ burgundy leather interior
2000 VW Passat wagon indigo blue w/ beige leather interior
1985 Mustang SVO
1970 Chevrolet K10 fleetside, shortbed