OM617 Motor Mount DIY - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rbardolv · #16 05-20-2007, 12:45 AM

PIcs please.... I am getting ready to do this myself and I am questioning the mounts because they dont look like whats on the car. Well the bottom half does and the top half with that shield and that cone shaped rubber under it does not... Any ideas?

I have 2 new mounts that look identical and are ready to go in when I figure this out...

Thanks guys!

networkboy · #17 05-20-2007, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

What do you do if you rounded out the central bolt inside one of the mounts (passenger side in our case)....this happened on the '83 as I was attempting to loosen it.

Is there a "best way" to tackle/get that bolt out???

I've heard a Torx bit pounded in works. I have yet to try it. I may just wimp out and pay the indy to do the work. Once he gets that bolt out I have replacements waiting for him.
-nB

Nordon · #18 05-20-2007, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbardolv

PIcs please.... I am getting ready to do this myself and I am questioning the mounts because they dont look like whats on the car. Well the bottom half does and the top half with that shield and that cone shaped rubber under it does not... Any ideas?

I have 2 new mounts that look identical and are ready to go in when I figure this out...

Thanks guys!

They wont look like the mounts, until you take out the center bolt from underneath and jack up the engine, then you can pull the shield out to reveal the mount. Hope this helps.

rbardolv · #19 05-20-2007, 02:32 AM

Hey why not tack weld that allen in the bolt head to get it out.. er or pound it in there with some jb-weld gunked on it, to sit over night and have at it the next mornin...

dsmithjr_1960 · #20 04-07-2008, 03:52 PM

The size allens I have on my Benz are a 8mm for the motor mount and 6mm for the 2 mounting bolts on top. The shock bolts are 10mm and I removed the shock and the bracket from the block the 8mm bolt screws into only because I was changing the oil cooler lines also and the only way to get them out was to remove the mount and bracket. Made the job much easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rg2098

A member asked me for a write up so it is. If anyone could take photos while using these steps as well as the exact fastener sizes please forward them to me to add and complete the DIY. I have found this the easiest method after doing motor mounts a few times.

1) Remove air cleaner assembly and unclip fan shroud (don't need to remove)
2) Remove center bolt from bottom of vehicle that mounts the engine to the mounts
3) Using a light vice grips to stop the shock from turning, unbolt the engine shocks from their top brackets.
4) Remove the engine shock upper brackets
5) Jack engine up using a board across the oil pan until most of the engine shocks are out of the hole only leaving the slim post above (you may be able to use a socket extension to push it down and "hook" it under the arm)(you will see what I mean)
6) Using the large hole uncovered by the engine shock mount, remove the inside motor mount bolt followed by the outside.
7) Slip in a new mount and assembly is the reverse of assembly.

NOTES:
-Clean out the allen head bolts well and use a hammer to fully seat the socket otherwise there is a chance you round it out.
-Don't jack the engine up without removing the mount center bolt and disconnecting the shocks from the brackets.
-Don't replace the trans mount while the motor mounts are loose. (don't ask how I know)

Chad300tdt · #21 04-07-2008, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

What do you do if you rounded out the central bolt inside one of the mounts (passenger side in our case)....this happened on the '83 as I was attempting to loosen it.

Is there a "best way" to tackle/get that bolt out???

I just dealt with this myself and they only thing that ended up working was to drill the head of the bolt off. It sounds much harder than it is. I used a 1/2" carbide drill bit and drilled until the head fell off. I used Aerokroil penetrating oil to lube the drill bit and I didn't use the drill at full speed. It took about 5 minutes and I was done. After the mount is separated from the mount arm, the remaining shaft of the bolt will unscrew with your fingers since there is no tension on it anymore. No kidding, the headless bolt shaft unscrews without any tool other than your hand.

I kept trying to find a solution other than drilling because I was afraid of the effort it would be, but it turned out to be much easier than I thought. Just wear goggles.

Here's my thread with pics:Stripped motor mount bolt - HELP needed ASAP

leathermang · #22 04-07-2008, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

the remaining shaft of the bolt will unscrew with your fingers since there is no tension on it anymore. No kidding, the headless bolt shaft unscrews without any tool other than your hand.

I kept trying to find a solution other than drilling because I was afraid of the effort it would be, but it turned out to be much easier than I thought. Just wear goggles.

Here's my thread with pics:Stripped motor mount bolt - HELP needed ASAP

Same thing with a stuck rounded out inside bolt holding the door jam plates on.. a drill which just fits into that allen hole will take it out in short order and then no problem turning it... no pressure, no resistance.

pawoSD · #23 04-07-2008, 04:40 PM

Good to hear! I'll just drill it out then when I replace the mounts on his car soon.....its going to be the combo mount/oil cooler lines project!

Chad300tdt · #24 04-07-2008, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Good to hear! I'll just drill it out then when I replace the mounts on his car soon.....its going to be the combo mount/oil cooler lines project!

Consider cutting the hose fittings off the oil cooler nipples. I was careful and still galled the threads. Also the fittings on my oil filter housing are frozen together. I plan to cut the lines close to the fitting and unscrew everything out of the housing. Then I can carefully cut the hose fittings off those too and put the nipples back in the housing with some blue thread lock.

pawoSD · #25 04-07-2008, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Consider cutting the hose fittings off the oil cooler nipples. I was careful and still galled the threads. Also the fittings on my oil filter housing are frozen together. I plan to cut the lines close to the fitting and unscrew everything out of the housing. Then I can carefully cut the hose fittings off those too and put the nipples back in the housing with some blue thread lock.

Oh I will, I have done the project twice before....and neither time was pleasant. I could not get them off my cooler successfully, even with carefully dremeling the nuts off, so I ended up with a brand new shiny Behr oil cooler. Cost: $302

I am going to try some new strategies and ideas in getting them off this time without damaging the threads.....but if they are super coroded together, there's not really much that can be done.

Chad300tdt · #26 04-07-2008, 04:55 PM

Do I need to find an oil cooler?

Check out post #6, Charlie linked another thread that talks about how to fix an oil cooler that has bad threads. Apparently, MB has screw in nipples that you can tap into the oil cooler.

RAYMOND485 · #27 12-21-2008, 01:45 PM

1984 300d turbo 148k
use a 7 mm open end to hold the engine shock from turning ON the
SHAFT botton of shock, a 10 mm socket 3/8 the same time, install new
engine shock mounting kit top and botton diy

HughO · #28 04-05-2009, 08:12 PM

Just did my mounts. The driver's side mount rubber was disintegrated, collapsed and in chunks. I PB'd underneath and lifted up the engine just enough to spin an allen on the inside 6mm bolt. Access from the top is easy on the outboard bolts. I cleaned up all the bolts and the mounted nuts with brake cleaner and air and was very careful not to cross thread the soft aluminum engine mounts. I even used a metric tap just be sure. everything went together hand tight. Did take 2+ hours but easier than I thought it would be.

jfsknight · #29 05-08-2009, 10:53 PM

Just a couple things. Got one center bolt out (used a 5/16 allen socket...I know, not a good idea). I can't get the other one out. The piece of metal with the access hole in it to get the bolt out looks shorn and the motor mount has pressed it down about a half inch. Consequently, the edge of the hole goes right across the center of the bolt head. I was thinking I could jack the engine up a bit , pound that piece of metal out of the way, and access the center bolt that way. Can I replace the piece of metal? Do I need to? I'm thinking the motor mount rests on it.

Also, what do the engine shocks look like? Do I access them from above or below? Obviously this is my first major DIY car project.

Thanks for any help.

ltbordo · #30 08-01-2009, 09:47 AM

don't know if my 300d is different but I have a few things to add to the article that I think would be VERY helpful.

FIRST: there is no list of tools! (10mm socket, 10 mm wrench, 6mm HEX socket, 8mm HEX socket, vice grips, 3/8 inch ratchet with a short and medium extender, 3/8 inch universal joint)

SECOND: I have no idea what the original author meant by his step 2) I can only assume he means the two (one for each side) 8mm hex bolts accessed from the bottom that sandwich the motor mount from the engine to the frame . The 6mm hex socket will remove the hex bolts that hold the engine mount to the frame from the top.

everything else seems pretty straight forward. sorry , no pictures