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-   -   Side-effect of IP Timing (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/152972-side-effect-ip-timing.html)

rg2098 05-11-2006 02:37 PM

Side-effect of IP Timing
 
Last night I had my IP timed with an electric diesel timer.

It was reading 15 degrees when I started
- only smoke visable at night under heavy acceleration
- diecent power
- some engine shake at idle

Now its at 25.6 degrees
- wont idle cold
- slightly lower power then 15 but bairly noticeable
- almost no shake
- very very loud at idle and above 4000 RPM
- ALOT of smoke.

I have a mark where 15 was and a mark now so I'm going to play with it by hand and try around 20 degrees. I would think with the spec being 24 it should run better being 1.5 degree off rather then 9 but oh well.

TheDon 05-11-2006 02:55 PM

you must of done something wrong.. you didnt take the plate off the govoner assembly and fiddle with stuff did you?

rg2098 05-11-2006 03:28 PM

No I did not. Simply rotated the pump.

boneheaddoctor 05-11-2006 04:16 PM

You do know that the 24 degree spec is the drip meathod while the 15 degree spec is the electronic method? Don't confuse the two or mix them up.

they both effectly put you to the same spot.


is that 25.6 point electrically measured? and did you tighten down the ip after you first checked...rotated and rechecked it the first time?

jbaj007 05-11-2006 04:17 PM

24º is only a number. It's used for static timing.

If you used a piezo electric dynamic/timing light system, the correct number is 11º or 15º or some such, BUT NOT 24º. Brian Carlton may know the correct number.

If you used an electric RIV method, again the setting is NOT 24º, but when the lights do their on/off thing. Brian again: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/139170-specialized-indicator-ip-timing.html?highlight=RIV

Edit: Beat by BHD by a minute. rats!!

dannym 05-11-2006 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
You do know that the 24 degree spec is the drip meathod while the 15 degree spec is the electronic method? Don't confuse the two or mix them up.

they both effectly put you to the same spot.

Ahhhhh........you beat me too it! :D

maybe you should try another method?

Danny

rg2098 05-11-2006 05:47 PM

It's set at around 22 degrees now according to the numbers we came up with last night. The electronic unit used a pickup attached to the #1 injector line and sensed the pulse. It runs much much better now then it did at 25. I don't remember well what it was prior to the adjustments since I didn't drive it for 2 weeks prior to yesterday. I should considering how many miles I put on a year.

The sticker on my front crossmember says "Initial Injection - 24 degrees BTDC" Just as added info.

Brian Carlton 05-11-2006 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rg2098
It's set at around 22 degrees now according to the numbers we came up with last night. The electronic unit used a pickup attached to the #1 injector line and sensed the pulse. It runs much much better now then it did at 25. I don't remember well what it was prior to the adjustments since I didn't drive it for 2 weeks prior to yesterday. I should considering how many miles I put on a year.

The sticker on my front crossmember says "Initial Injection - 24 degrees BTDC" Just as added info.


The proper IP timing when the electronic unit is used with the pulse sensor is 14° BTDC.

22° is seriously advanced from stock.

hawthorne90250 05-11-2006 07:01 PM

Timing
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The proper IP timing when the electronic unit is used with the pulse sensor is 14° BTDC.

22° is seriously advanced from stock.

Sorry i have noting to add but a question, What type of pluse timing do you use and where does a person get one?:D

Brian Carlton 05-11-2006 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawthorne90250
Sorry i have noting to add but a question, What type of pluse timing do you use and where does a person get one?:D

I don't own one. I did a comparative test with the unit owned by Dieselnut14 and the RIV lights that I have.

15° ATDC on the RIV lights = 14° BTDC on the impulse timing light

rg2098 05-11-2006 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
The proper IP timing when the electronic unit is used with the pulse sensor is 14° BTDC.

22° is seriously advanced from stock.

Now heres another question. What effect does advancing it do? I remember somewhere you can increase MPG by advancing or retarding the injection timing.

Brian Carlton 05-11-2006 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rg2098
Now heres another question. What effect does advancing it do? I remember somewhere you can increase MPG by advancing or retarding the injection timing.

I have a suspicion that advancing it will give you increased performance and fuel economy........to a point.

Did you check out Barry's thread on the voltage from the glow plugs while running? If you have the pulse unit, you could monitor the voltage versus advance and contribute to that thread.

rg2098 05-11-2006 07:36 PM

Wait wait, If it's supposed to be at 14 and I have it at 22 BTDC wouldn't it be retarded instead of advanced?

Brian Carlton 05-11-2006 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rg2098
Wait wait, If it's supposed to be at 14 and I have it at 22 BTDC wouldn't it be retarded instead of advanced?

8° advanced.;)

rg2098 05-11-2006 08:45 PM

Ok, I'm just confusing myself. I have it running well so its at what it's at. I would like to check mileage but the idle is relatively smooth and not that much smoke. I used the hillbilly way and adjusted it until it ran crappy then moved it back a notch. :rolleyes:

Brian Carlton 05-11-2006 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rg2098
I used the hillbilly way and adjusted it until it ran crappy then moved it back a notch. :rolleyes:

........surprising from a meticulous old fellow such as yourself..........:D

hawthorne90250 05-11-2006 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
I don't own one. I did a comparative test with the unit owned by Dieselnut14 and the RIV lights that I have.

15° ATDC on the RIV lights = 14° BTDC on the impulse timing light

Ok,I have no idea what RIV stands for and i am none the wiser on what impulse timing is, could some explane to me what this is?
Thanks:confused:

dannym 05-12-2006 10:53 AM

Try reading som of these:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/Index/617T/07MechElec.htm

Danny

barry123400 05-12-2006 11:22 AM

If you seem to have more power you might get better fuel milage. The problem is you do not want the engine getting it's fuel so early it is trying to reverse the direction of piston travel. Still wastes fuel even if no audible Pre detonation. Watch your temperature gauge is it the same or less in general? You should sense a better drivability as well if all is well. Listen to your engine carefully. Do you hear a larger background knocking then you did before? If not all should be well. Also suprisingly although against common sense the idle is smoother when the car is ahead of the factory settings as long as not too far. Because of many factors it would not suprise me that 8 degrees advance over factory designated setting works well for your engine only. You could verify by the milli volt method. I do not think it is detrimental to tune to the highest voltage reading. The rotating inertia present means you are really not advancing too far with that method I suspect. Just to the point of maximum efficiecy for your engine. Plus it may be the best indicator of efficient fuel usage. Just drive it for ten minutes and post if there is more noticable power and it is pulling properly. Without your initial test getting messed up you would be still at the factory recomended point and that would have been a shame if my thinking is correct. Each engine is going to respond a little different as things like injector pop,compression, actual valve timing, fuel used, plus many more variables are always a little different by and large with each older engine plus we have not even got into injector pump aging to any extent yet. What is causing me to think and activate my old rusty brain is how the factor of available compression with used engines is playing in to all of this. If your compression is say down 10 percent from new on average for a random number is it not obvious the ignition point of the fuel is going to be later in reality as the ignition temperature remains the same but that point is not reached until the piston has moved a small amount higher in the cylinder? Meaning the factory marks are no longer exactly valid. I now suspect it to be a large component. Please post your observations. The present car I am driving although volkswagen is producing above average fuel milage plus great power with a quieter idle than it ever did. If it had been set by ear I think I would have advanced the pump until I heard the excess rattle and backed off a little. Results would have been no better than the factory setting for milage perhaps. Other than indicated power is greater. Because it may be in reality be over advanced. Not to the extent of damaging the engine but not at the most efficient setting. That would not have been good but maybe because of all the indirect aging things that are present in an old engine the milli volt method does it all for you. We will see. You are at the trial and error stage in my opinion the way you have done yours. Hope this milli volt thing works out. Also hope by accident you have hit the sweet spot of both highest possible fuel efficiency combined with best power consistant with it as well. That way you are not and cannot be too far advanced. As soon as you are even the slightest amount too far advanced the fuel utilization is reduced and combustion temperature starts to fall. That is under test conditions by miilivot method. In reality under driving or load it might get hotter as it is less efffecient and you are burning more fuel creating heat. Remember there are less btus in less fuel. Or more fuel equals higher temperatures. I will have to think about this for awhile. The power gain is then somewhat illusionary as you only get it an acceleration it seems rather than across the board. Although you will have some obvious gain. The position we really seek is incrementally very, very small on the movement of the pump near the final resting place obtained by just the slightest of taps that produced no visible movement on the vw pump. I am going to make sure to do two more over the weekend as I feel in is now important to pay attention to details. Plus it is required that the present results prove to be repeatable. Also it is getting to the point I have to know if some of my seemingly abstract thinking is accurate. Your eight degrees is a lot of advance from the factory recomendation. That remark I have to concur with. If proven viable it should upset present applecarts of thought. By my reasoning and your description it may be too far but only time observation and usage will indicate but would hate to see pre ignition at high revs because of the designed advance curve in the pump. Keep an eye and ear on things. Main thing is let us know how it plays out. I for one will be watching.

OMEGAMAN 05-12-2006 12:05 PM

That 24 deg spec on your emmisions label is for static timing of the injection pump only. Static timing means start of fuel delivery which is when the piston in the injector pump moves past the spill port and starts to displace fuel.

The piazo electric method measures when the injector opens. This would happen much later in the the compression stroke than start of fuel delivery. If you set the pump with your timing light(piazo electric) at the start of fuel delivery spec it would be too far advanced and behave very strange.


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