I am going to replace my headlight switch and am wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram as well as a picture. I would like to look at how the wires are connected. Looking at the new switch, it seems that it takes a screw and wire type setup like an electrical outlet in a house.

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/ETM/82etm.pdf

I really appreciate the response but this file is for ACC....

Yep, sorry about that.

Try this one:

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/ETM/126td83-85.pdf

thanks, I needed the ACC one as well...

Well, I bought a new switch from here. I've installed it but now have NO headlights and only the driver's side fog light. I hooked up the wires one at a time and only had one off at a time so that I did not mix up the wires.

After I hooked it up and read the wiring diagram posted in this thread, I noticed a few things. The colors on the diagram do not match what I have. I have an 82 and the diagram is for an 83/84/85. Also, I tested the switch with a volt meter. I have power to the switch and am getting one light so I assume I have a good ground. When I turn the switch on and test it I have no power to the lead that (I think) goes out to the lights.

On the theory that there is a short to ground on that lead I disconnected it and tested that terminal and did not get any power. I'm wondering if the new switch is bad..... If I have a hot lead to the headlight switch and I turn it all the way on, I should get 12 volts to all the terminals that should be on, right?.....even if the wires are bad, I should have power.....any suggestions would be appreciated.

if not, I have an 82, and I could trace all the wires on mine for you this weekend.
PM me if you need me to.
John

Has anyone gotten a bad headlight switch before? They seem pretty substancial. I would think that if I had power to the switch and turned it on, the terminal that feeds the headlights would work as well?

The original headlight switch was probably fine. The new headlight switch is most certainly fine.

Start with the basics.

Put the headlights on and check for power at fuses 6 and 8. Check on both sides of each fuse.

Then, put the high beams on and check for power at fuses 2 and 4. Check on both sides of the fuse.

Pull all four fuses and replace them or clean the contacts thoroughly.

Report back with results.

Note that I'm using the '84 diagram since I don't have the '82 and it does not seem to be available online.

Well, I went out and tested everything. Now I'm back to where I started. I have headlights but no passenger side marker light or dash lights. I did not change anything but my headlights are working again. I'm assuming that something was loose when I replaced the switch or I needed to work the switch a few times to wear off a factory coating of oil.

I did not have time to test any of the wiring to the light or to check voltage at the light. I will do that tomorrow. Since the front marker, rear tail light, dash lights and accessory lights are out, I suspect a grounding problem. That's the only area I think that exists a commonality.

You don't have a grounding problem

You have fuse problems.

Change the #1 fuse and clean it's contacts.

Do the remaining fuses as I advised above.

I'll do that tomorrow. Do all these lights go through those fuses? I do have headlights on both sides both high and low beam.

You had headlights........then you didn't.........then you did.

Fuse problems.

Pull all five fuses and replace them.........clean the brass contacts thoroughly with a pen eraser (has grit in it).

Problem resolved.

If you have the original fuses (aluminum) in the vehicle, buy some copper fuses or some glass enclosed fuses (NAPA) and replace the entire set.

Trust me........you'll be glad you did.

I'll do that, yes I do still have the aluminum fuses. I'm sure it couldn't hurt.

dm,

When headlights don't work, always check fuses first. If the fuse box cover is cracked and any salt water gets onto the aluminum fuses, U get an open circuit and anything connected to that circuit won't work or might work intermittently.

The fuses don't burn out but the open circuit happens mostly with aluminum fuses. Copper fuses or the glass fuses with crome plated ends are more corrosion resistant.

There should be a paper list inside the fuse box telling U what circuit each fuse protects and the correct size fuse to use in each fuse position.

Yes, U should get a 12 volt reading at each switch terminal that the switch is making a connection to.

FYI: U don't check for power at switch terminals, U check for voltage.

P E H