where they have some kind of an upgrade kit that is suppose to improve the dim dash light problem. One kit for 123(s) and one for 126(s). I note he is using "Xenon" bulbs for some of the replacements.

They are pretty good about answering your questions too.

Their business is set up on a dairy farm near the Canadian border on the Washington State side.

Here is their description:

"Here is how to fix those intermittent dash lights and upgrade to a brighter bulb at the same time. This kit comes with a new dimmer switch for the dash lights (a bad dimmer is the biggest reason for dash lights not working). The kit also includes three Xenon gas bulbs (one for a spare) for brightening your dash lights and four OEM dash indicator light bulbs and an installation instruction sheet. By removing the instrument cluster from the dash you can replace your nighttime dash lights and any bad indicator lights all at the same time. We also carry the factory instrument cluster removal tools. The two pull tools allow you to easily remove the cluster without removing the panels under the dash. If you do not have these tools already I highly recommend them to help you install this dash light repair kit."

Put "Dim dash" in the search box to find the items related to this !
Sam

Hmmm.........Kits for the 123 and 124. Couldn't find any mention for the 126.

Is the dash a little different between the 123 and 126 in this area?

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I screwed up... I misspoke when I included 126 models in my post regarding an upgrade for dimly lit dash! I think the 126 chassis does have different dash lights... let me check something... well they also have a "LIGHT BULB SURVIVAL KIT" which includes dash lights and this kit is for both 123 and 126... so I'm inclined to believe the dash lights are the same in these 2 models!

Sam

I followed one of the DIY "brighten your dash" guides since people were always asking whether or not my lights were on since the dash was so dark.

I removed the lower dash panel. I popped the cluster out from behind. I disconnected all connections in the back and slid the cluster fully out. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. I fried a trace on the cluster circuit board when I shorted the clock +12v connection accidentally. I repaired that with solder.

The bulbs were blackened. I replaced them with similar wattage bulbs. I cleaned the ends of the plastic light-guides. I painted the little box that the light sits in with white model paint. I removed all instruments and painted the needles with fluorescent orange paint. BE CAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE SPEEDO NEEDLE. I also cleaned the trip meter, which was quite dirty.

I also cleaned and lubed (with electrical conductive lube) the rheostat.

I put everything back together. It's not much brighter at all, even with the rheostat all the way up. I should have painted the gauge needles WHITE, because while day-glo orange looks nice in daylight, you can barely see it with little light at night. Also, now light leaks into the left turn-signal indicator. Really annoying.

I tried replacing the dash lights with 1-LED amber LEDs. It was a little darker than the incandescent bulb. I'll probably get some 4-6 LED cluster lamps to replace them, and you can do that without totally removing the cluster.

If I had it to do again, I would have used the bigger LEDs. Also, instead of white model paint on the little light boxes, I would have used Reflectix aluminum tape. It's made of very reflective aluminum, and would have isolated and reflected light quite well. I'd also paint the gauge needles white, for visibility.

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Aaron
'84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy...
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Check out this link as it give you detailed instruction on going into a dash, checking and maintenance for reostat, connectors, bulbs and cleaning the various light transporting parts... a good article:

http://www.diymbrepair.com/Dash/

Sam

OK here is what I did today. I pulled the instrument panel out completely. Replaced the 2 dash lights with new ones. I also painted the inside of the light housing with white paint. I soldered across the rheostat too. Things are not real bright but definitey a lot better. One strange thing though, my left turn indicator seems to be somewhat lit up so I see a green left arrow all the time. The turn indicator works as expected. Any tips before I pull it apart again to see where the light is coming from.

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85 300D
245K and running strong

I converted my W123 to LED's. What a difference. I bought 4 of the white high brightness LEDs at Radio Shack. I wired them in series so they were in a 14.1 volt total so they wouldn't flake out. I pulled out he clear prism and placed them so they would reflect off of the reflector panel, but not shine out into the driver's eyes.

What a great deal.

JCD

Don't forget to replace the fuse if it looks old. These fuses tend to increase in resistance as they age, which will reduce the power being sent to the bulbs. Replacing my old fuse helped a little bit, but every little bit counts.

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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K

Here is an easy way to fix a dim dash due to a corroded rheostat. Get some electrical contact cleaner and a long, thin needle and syringe. Spray out some cleaner in a cup and get a good dose in the syringe. Slide the needle in at the top of the knob. I had to push the knob in (trip odometer) to get the needle in. give it a few drops of cleaner and remove the needle. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and presto. I had bright dash lights without removing the instrument panel.

I lined the the bulb cavaties with silver foil backed tape and it helped brighten things up. (I think it was the type used for AC duct work)

Sunpro gauges makes a fit in replacement for the stock 194 bulbs. They are led so they are cool, bright, and efficient. Don't ask me the price tho.