a couple of questions

first, by RUG are you guys talking about regular unleaded gasoline?

and if so, does it mix with the VO well? i imagine it wouldnt.

Yes we are reffering to regular unleaded gasoline. And it does mix well! I have a jar of wvo/rug/and a hint of atf still well mixed in the garage. that has been sitting their for 8 months! every once in a while i go and check it to see if it has ever sepperated into layers but i hasnt.

heated
 

i was reading diesel giants web page on how to replace
your fuel lines... and he says that the fuel returns to the tank
from the IP hot....

this is what i always believed that the IP heats the fuel some and the injectors also heat the fuel...

'79 300sd Wvo
 

I currently run 25% 1 micron, dewatered WVO blended into the tank at the pump station. This is a summer time use and I plan on installing a engine water heated tank under the hood. This tank will be roughly 4 gallons, just enough for 1/2 of my trips and refill for the return trip. Fuel filter will be insulated and heated with a silicone inbedded band style electric heater. Fuel lines between the IP and injectors will be heated with similar band heaters.
The plan for fuel switching is to make a fuel line manafold just before the IP, place check valves in the fuel lines and use switching on/off the fuel pumps to control fuel selection.
Any advice is welcome.

You fortunately live in a place that doesn't see extremely low temperatures. RUG will separate from WVO at or below freezing. That'd really suck to gulp a slug of separated RUG before your filter plugs from solidifying WVO.

The IP and injectors do certainly add heat to your fuel as it passes through, but your IP and injectors are not hot at cold startup. This is when you have the highest chance of coking your injectors and ring lands.

Think about it...you are injecting a thicker liquid with a considerably lower flash point than the fuel your engine was designed for. Once the engine is hot, this may work out fine, but when the engine is cold you're risking some major issues down the road. But, as I mentioned in my conversion thread, it's your car.

This cold start on veg. oil and ring land coking issue is why the single tank kit makers like Elsbett are going to great lengths to heat the fuel as quickly as possible and even the injector lines and injectors. The glow plug relays are also modified to allow the glow plugs to run longer and help get the pre-chamber hot. The injector pop pressures are also modified as well as the injector orifices. Do you really think they would go to all this trouble if just pouring WVO in your tank was sustainable in the long term?

I think this thread and others on thid forum regarding the pour in your tank technique are doing a disservice to the owners of these finely engineered cars.

Did you find the manual.That says you can run vo in warm climate?

i believe
 

i believe the fuel injector is hot after the first explosion in the cylinder.

based on the small amount of fuel.... and the small size of the injector tip. I believe that it becomes hot after the first explosion... I believe the exhaust gases and the temp of the first compression are instantly 1200 degrees... and although it takes 5 or 10 minutes to heat 2 gallons of water in the radiator and 8 qts of oil in the sump... I believe 1 gram of fuel is heated quite quickly....I believe coking is just a natural result of burning vegie oil...
And I believe you will have coke with our without heating...I am getting a lot of emails from wvo'ers and they all are saying they have to clean there injectors preiodically....its just the nature of the beast...

actually
 

actually the 2 tank people are acknowledging that there is heat in the ip and the injectors... becasue they start up on diesel... then switch to wvo.... and at start up the injector is hot... and even if the water gets hot in say 10 minutes... it would still take it 30 or 40 minutes to transfer enough heat to the wvo tank... so the two tank people are also depending on the heat of the injectors....

think about it... if your doing wvo two tanks then if you put a thermostat in the second tank... it would probably take about 30 minutes to get it to the temp of the water... 90c.... and most peoples driving would be over before they ever got to switch.

What you believe is irrelevant. If you do a little research you will find that the optimum WVO injection temps are 150-160*F BRFORE it enters the IP. Check on a guy named Dana Linscott. He has sort of pioneered homebrewed WVO setups and likely has the most experience with injector coking issues. Last I checked he had over 40K without ANY injector coking. While the injector tip may be hot the fuel in the IP is not anywhere near hot enough without some external heating. The point of heating the WVO up is to lower the viscosity to approximately the same as diesel fuel. The lower viscosity allows the IP and injectors to produce the correct spray patterns. These correct spray patterns allow a complete burn of the WVO and this is what keeps your injectors crud free. RT

just love it
 

I just love how what i believe and what my opinion is, is just so irrelivant... even though I am the one who drove 550 miles last week on pure one tank wvo....

all I am asking you to do is to think about what your saying... just think for a few minutes.... suppose you took a pot... a 20 gallon pot... and sit it on your oven at home... and turned the stove eye up to high... and the stove eye was red hot.... how long do you think it would take for that stove eye to get 20 gals of oil to 150 degrees... just think about that....when was the last time you made spagetti.....it take a stove eye 30 minutes to get 2 gals of water boiling for the spatetti....So these people are just doing an exerciese in futlity.... there is no way a 12 volt car electrical system... or a 2 gallon water system... is heating 20 gal of wvo in any reasonable time at all.... not what so ever.... Last winter my benz heater never got warm all winter long on my 15 minute drive home from work.... So can you see that in the real world that what your saying is just not possible..... I drive 15 minute to work... so what do i do... go out and start my car and let it idle on diesel for 30 minutes before I leave for work....then I can switch over to wvo..

Dave,

I didn't find the 190D manual yet.

P E H

I don't think you understand what a well designed SVO system does. The point is not to heat the oil in the tank to injection temps. but to heat it enough to where it will flow from the tank through the heated fuel line and through coolant, and or electrically heated components which will heat the fuel to 150 to 180F prior to the Ipump. The fuel is heated in small quantities in incremental steps. You are correct though, that purely heating the oil in the tank is pointless.

My veg. fuel temp. in my system reaches 140F in the final heat exchanger after about 1 minute of driving at 70F ambient temps.

Oh I see, you have driven 500 miles on WVO. Forgive us for questioning your expertise on the matter, especially when you are using such scientific methods to test your hypotheses.

Once again, you do not understand SVO conversion techniques and technology. Noone is attempting to heat 20 gallons of oil to injection temps.

I also don't think you understand the composition of WVO. The majority of europeans who have been driving 123 Benz vehicles on plant oil using the pour in tank technique are using VIRGIN CANOLA and would warn against using soy WVO, especially if it is at all hydrogenated. At 50 F most of my WVO is quite thick, and the waxes contained in it would quickly clog my fuel filters. Perhaps it would help this discussion if you told us where you operate your Benz.

The I think and my opinion statements really do mean nothing in this context. There is a great deal of research out there on this subject, and I would rather go by that than your opinion. That is why I use a well designed SVO system in both my diesels. But hey, it is your car you are tampering with.

Keep looking for the manual--thanks